Substrates???

larz313

Gravity Guru
Another one for ya. What's a good substrate to use that's erasing and scratching friendly? I tried it on thick sketch paper, but it just pulls up the paper fibers too much. Or am I scratching wrong?
 
Schollershammer no4 is airbrush specific paper/board and is great for erasing altho scratching can still damage the surface if your not careful. Ive read a lot on hear about clayboard being great for both. Also depends in the paint your using as some are better than others, com-art and liquitex are what i use and can erase with both
 
Canvas works well. I would recommend the 'water color' stretched canvases. They seem to work better than oil or acrylic canvas out of the package.
 
Try conti-board.. the white stuff on the back of cheap wardrobes!... Give it a light sand and its great for us noobs to learn on. scratches and erases easily and if you mess up it wipes clean!
 
Bristol board also another good one for both, but again, be careful with the scratching or you'll start to pull fibres.
It erases well, but it depended a lot on your paint and reduction.
On the upside, it's pretty cheap.
 
Another one for ya. What's a good substrate to use that's erasing and scratching friendly? I tried it on thick sketch paper, but it just pulls up the paper fibers too much. Or am I scratching wrong?
Most accessible is Yupo paper, then claybord (best i've used) and i'm eager to try gesso'd wood. Scalpel on canvas is a bit of a no go unless the surface is flat and you're very light handed plus would be risky if you're using frisket.
 
Anything flat with layers of gesso on it will will work great, but I'm lazy and Schoellershammer 4g board has been my weapon of choice...at least till I get thru all 25 sheets of it lol. I am very interested in trying the clayboard though. Also sometime I might experiment with putting drywall mud on a flat surface, sand it down and see how that works :).
 
Most accessible is Yupo paper, then claybord (best i've used) and i'm eager to try gesso'd wood. Scalpel on canvas is a bit of a no go unless the surface is flat and you're very light handed plus would be risky if you're using frisket.

I've used the scalpel on canvas, but I took off the frame first and stapled it to a piece of thick MDF, then smeared with gesso using a wide window washing squeegee, but that was job and a half and that is how my gesso'd MDF evolved, I simply left the canvas out of the equation since there was little evidence of it anyway, lol
 
Most accessible is Yupo paper, then claybord (best i've used) and i'm eager to try gesso'd wood. Scalpel on canvas is a bit of a no go unless the surface is flat and you're very light handed plus would be risky if you're using frisket.
Just tried the gesso on masonite for a large surface, its going to be a longnterm project. Found it much better to spray paint it a couple coats before the gesso, thanks to @Madbrush. Scratches incredible, cannot blend erase very well. I think you will love it @airbrushtutor
 
yeah the Etac is beautifully scratchable on claybord - so much control of the scratching, you don't have to pull off 100% at a time, but erasing.. doesn't really work. The color gets darker before it erases?! bit weird.. but i do like it.
I did a lot of research on the gessoed materials today, i will make a batch in the next couple of weeks to try it on masonite.
 
yeah the Etac is beautifully scratchable on claybord - so much control of the scratching, you don't have to pull off 100% at a time, but erasing.. doesn't really work. The color gets darker before it erases?! bit weird.. but i do like it.
I did a lot of research on the gessoed materials today, i will make a batch in the next couple of weeks to try it on masonite.

Dru Blair explained the problem with the paint getting darker while erasing.

When atomized paint is sitting on the surface, it is on there as a bunch of tiny spheres. As you rub on it, the pigments flatten out creating more visible surface area, making them appear darker

I'd guess that the problem is more of a problem with ETAC because of the binder. It's easier to erase, so the pigments are not as well protected from being flattened. That's just my theory based on what Dru said.

That being said, the problem seems to happen with ETAC when using a color matched opaque, but not with transparent paints straight few the bottle. In my experience anyway.
 
I came across a (for me) new one today: Crescent aibrush board. The local airbrush store got it a few days back (through createx) and I got to try it (also took the opportunity to try out a badger krome :)).

It's about as thick as the schoellershammer board and feels the same (very smooth surface). It suits itself very well for erasing (used electrical/fiberglas and erasor pencil and createx illustration sepia), I got basicly the same result s I'd expect on schoellershammer. With scratching there was a signisficant difference though. On schoellershammer that was (for me) alway's tricky and though it didn't scratch as easily as a gesso surface it was considerably easier to scratch on than schoellershammer.

I only did a quick test so I don't dare saying anything for cetrain, I plan to do a more thorough test shortely though (furry critter probably :p) and put up a small review when thats done.
 
I came across a (for me) new one today: Crescent aibrush board. The local airbrush store got it a few days back (through createx) and I got to try it (also took the opportunity to try out a badger krome :)).

It's about as thick as the schoellershammer board and feels the same (very smooth surface). It suits itself very well for erasing (used electrical/fiberglas and erasor pencil and createx illustration sepia), I got basicly the same result s I'd expect on schoellershammer. With scratching there was a signisficant difference though. On schoellershammer that was (for me) alway's tricky and though it didn't scratch as easily as a gesso surface it was considerably easier to scratch on than schoellershammer.

I only did a quick test so I don't dare saying anything for cetrain, I plan to do a more thorough test shortely though (furry critter probably :p) and put up a small review when thats done.

How much does it cost and is it also available in paper thickness form?:)
 
I came across a (for me) new one today: Crescent aibrush board. The local airbrush store got it a few days back (through createx) and I got to try it (also took the opportunity to try out a badger krome :)).

It's about as thick as the schoellershammer board and feels the same (very smooth surface). It suits itself very well for erasing (used electrical/fiberglas and erasor pencil and createx illustration sepia), I got basicly the same result s I'd expect on schoellershammer. With scratching there was a signisficant difference though. On schoellershammer that was (for me) alway's tricky and though it didn't scratch as easily as a gesso surface it was considerably easier to scratch on than schoellershammer.

I only did a quick test so I don't dare saying anything for cetrain, I plan to do a more thorough test shortely though (furry critter probably :p) and put up a small review when thats done.
They used to sell this here, believe no one carries it anymore
 
I believe Dru Blair used to use a Crescent board but it has since been discontinued. A good , less expensive alternative to the 4G here in the US would be nice, although when you break down the total cost per piece it's not so bad.
 
Just did a search of the crescent site. 115 and 5115 paint board is recommended for watercolor paint, and has similar properties to the 215 illustration board I have used previously. I may have to look for some locally. The 115 is a 30"x40" standard board, the 5115 is premium and has 3 sizes available from 5x20-30x40.
 
Back
Top