Textures

T

Toot

Guest
Howdy,

Long time since I have been on here, always at best at part-part-time painter but home life has been exceptionally busy so been a no-none-at-all-painter for quite a while. So finally got a chance to paint last week, spent quite a while even getting my old airbrush to spray (I swear I cleaned it perfectly last time I used it!).

However, overall I was very happy that the few 'moves' I had learned still worked but I very quickly came up against my arch-nemesis...textures....arghhh...

I went away and thought about it and concluded there was no majic and simple way, maybe, just maybe that creating texture takes a lot of work! (??????? please tell me I an wrong!)

So this weekend I am getting to paint again and I thought to myself; I have seen lots of artwork (via the internet) and artists seem to use anything they can get their hands on.

So I finally tried my el-cheapo electric eraser, make a few light spots and spray over and repeat...not bad but far from acceptable. So I had a go scrapping with a sharp blade, better, way more control. I could see this working but my issue was that when I scrapped and the spayed over ...repeat.... the background became too dark.

So therefore is that why people use such diluted paint/reducer mixes? The paint mix I have now I made up last time I painted (possibly over a year ago) and I thing at best would be 5 drops of Wicked black to 1 drop of reducer.

So am I on the right tracking by erasing and scrapping and then spraying over? and then reducing my paint a lot more? and taking time and effort to make texture from scratch? (no pun intended).

Or is there some real quick way? I did try the figure-8 thing...couldn't quite work that out! I also tried spraying through some tissue paper and it did kinda work....I was thinking that once I found a suitable material I could use this method but then all my texture would look the same??

Cheers

Toot
 
What sort of texture is it u want? Fur hair skin etc, there is no quick way if you want to get the look right, one if my last pieces was a tiger and it took between 25-30 hours all in to do and if im honest i prob couldve done with another 10 or so, your paint mix is a bit strong you should try 5:1 reducer paint, spray light coats go in with your eraser then another light coat, build it up that way and leave using a blade untill near the end for the finer hairs , there have been som really good step by steps done by the likes of haasje and beanpole on fur lately try searching the forums.
 
as above - what sort of texture are you after? im not that good yet but ive sprayed through tons of stuff just to find out what happens :)
stretched out wire wool , move it about as you overlay
large feathers /hair combs in different sizes
crunched up damp tissue paper rolled over the surface to remove bits ( change liquid depending on whether you are using water based paints or other)
netting from orange bags etc makes good dragon/snake skin
rubber paint>spray >lift>repaint
cotton wool stretched out

.... the list goes on , just let people know what you are trying to imitate and some one will be able to help , personally half the stuff in my house has dried paint on -you also get funny looks when buying fishnet stockings in a shop (they make good snakeskin/dragon scales and you can stretch it to make them bigger or smaller (i made a small frame i can stretch things over and staple them down )
 
as above - what sort of texture are you after? im not that good yet but ive sprayed through tons of stuff just to find out what happens :)
stretched out wire wool , move it about as you overlay
large feathers /hair combs in different sizes
crunched up damp tissue paper rolled over the surface to remove bits ( change liquid depending on whether you are using water based paints or other)
netting from orange bags etc makes good dragon/snake skin
rubber paint>spray >lift>repaint
cotton wool stretched out

.... the list goes on , just let people know what you are trying to imitate and some one will be able to help , personally half the stuff in my house has dried paint on -you also get funny looks when buying fishnet stockings in a shop (they make good snakeskin/dragon scales and you can stretch it to make them bigger or smaller (i made a small frame i can stretch things over and staple them down )
This goes double for me, but the nylon stockings were abit much!
Just give us a clue as to what you're trying to do, and I'm certain that someone here can guide you!
 
You can use a lot of diff. thing's for texture both airbrush and spraying thru things,here's a few things I use ...Cotton batting from an old pillow(works great for cloud's),Netting from the fabric store(comes in a lot of diff shapes and sizes also comes in spider web and a few others that are holiday types),Torn paper,wad of plastic wrap(press into wet paint for texture)anything that you can spray thru or use to remove paint both wet and dry will work most of the time so just think of thing's that might work for the texture you want and try it on some scrap paper,Even if it did't work for what your doing at the moment it might work for something your doing down the road?
 
I'm working on a skull in black. I would like to eventually try a color one but that is a challenge for another time. What I'm trying to do is create a texture on the skull. The reference I am using has a grainy texture (could just be a bad photocopy lol, but it looks quite good).

So I think I'll take the advice and reduce my paint a lot more and also start trying some different materials to spray through and hopefully I'll find something that works, thanks
 
Erasing figure 8's would give you that grainy sort of texture that you're after, but remember to spray over wiith reduced transparent black.
This will bring the texture forward to give it depth.
 
When I did my grainy stone skull, I just opened and closed the paint fast to get stipple effect. It is one time the needle limiter did come in handy.
 
Re: the stockings , one is used to make textures and the other is used to rob the local bank to get that new gun and compressor you always wanted :)
 
If you rock your trigger back and forth with the air off you can build up and little paint on the nozzle, then tap your air on real quick and splat you have a speckled paint look.
 
As per my original post, I don't get to paint much...since then (Sept 26) until now (Nov 7) I may have actually got 2 or 3 attempts. Most attempts have failed as my AB has an issue though I swear that I clean it properly (but obviously I don't).

So tonight I had an open evening an decided to give this idea of over-reducing and then electric eraser to create texture. I didn't quite believe that it would work (using Wicked paints) so still didn't go as far as was recommended. I went for a mix of 1:4 (1 paint to 4 reducer).

The reason I have never thought this was true was because the makers of Wicked tell you to spray it 'neat' or with slight reduction. So reducing this much did make me worried. In the other hand, I could understand that building texture meant putting it in piece-by-piece, but with my 'recommended' mix once I done 2 or 3 sprays everything just blended together.

So attached is my pics of tonight's effort, it will most likely mean December before I get a go again, and when I do I will be going for a full 1:5 mix!

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As per my original post, I don't get to paint much...since then (Sept 26) until now (Nov 7) I may have actually got 2 or 3 attempts. Most attempts have failed as my AB has an issue though I swear that I clean it properly (but obviously I don't).

So tonight I had an open evening an decided to give this idea of over-reducing and then electric eraser to create texture. I didn't quite believe that it would work (using Wicked paints) so still didn't go as far as was recommended. I went for a mix of 1:4 (1 paint to 4 reducer).

The reason I have never thought this was true was because the makers of Wicked tell you to spray it 'neat' or with slight reduction. So reducing this much did make me worried. In the other hand, I could understand that building texture meant putting it in piece-by-piece, but with my 'recommended' mix once I done 2 or 3 sprays everything just blended together.

So attached is my pics of tonight's effort, it will most likely mean December before I get a go again, and when I do I will be going for a full 1:5 mix!

View attachment 32640
and can't recommend enough that electric eraser....erase, light spray, erase more....repeat...

though using the electric eraser reminded me of my days when I was a cleaner. I took a while to learn how to control the big electric floor polisher, in the end I could use it with a light application of one hand, and then I laughed at newbies who hit the start switch and got slammed all down the hallway! the electric eraser likes to run away!
 
As per my original post, I don't get to paint much...since then (Sept 26) until now (Nov 7) I may have actually got 2 or 3 attempts. Most attempts have failed as my AB has an issue though I swear that I clean it properly (but obviously I don't).

So tonight I had an open evening an decided to give this idea of over-reducing and then electric eraser to create texture. I didn't quite believe that it would work (using Wicked paints) so still didn't go as far as was recommended. I went for a mix of 1:4 (1 paint to 4 reducer).

The reason I have never thought this was true was because the makers of Wicked tell you to spray it 'neat' or with slight reduction. So reducing this much did make me worried. In the other hand, I could understand that building texture meant putting it in piece-by-piece, but with my 'recommended' mix once I done 2 or 3 sprays everything just blended together.

So attached is my pics of tonight's effort, it will most likely mean December before I get a go again, and when I do I will be going for a full 1:5 mix!

View attachment 32640

When it says spray straight out of the bottle it means thro a 0.5 nozzle, it says the same on com art and the other day i was spraying 15:1 reducer:paint thro a 0.18 nozzle, i was actually amazed at how much i got done with one drop of paint paint
1030efa24b2ebb8b75b9f7b116d85e7d.jpg

This skull was completed with just two drops of black and 30 reducer
 
If you do not reduce a lot, you have to increase your distance from the surface to get a light coat and that creates a lot of overspray. Like Matty said, you go far with a drop if you reduce it a lot. If you don't want to reduce it with reducer, use transparent base. That with still give you the transparency without thinning the paint to breaking point.
 
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