The sad day when a parts airbrush is cheaper than parts for a airbrush.

[Drastion]

Thanks for the help guys. Pictures are worth a thousand words. I have not taken these off my other AB. So I don't don't know if they are all worn out or not.

 

[Wizard_Theron]

Looking at mine the clamp sides don’t quite meet. As yours do, you might try some tape over the cup arm to increase its diameter in the clamp.

 

[Wizard_Theron]

Perhaps also some tape on the upper threaded part of the blast tube arm to do the same thing there, though you might want to get some brush on coating instead for that, at least long term, assuming it works.

 

[RK Ink and Focus]

If the air tube is relying on the taper to close around the thread can you check it does not bottom out? If it does can you file the end off the taper to give some more clearance. Its surprising the tube moves as it has a thread on the tube aswell!

 

[Drastion]

Looking at mine the clamp sides don’t quite meet. As yours do, you might try some tape over the cup arm to increase its diameter in the clamp.

Thanks for that picture. The previous owner must have had the issue for a while.



It is tough taking pictures of Chrome in the crappy lighting I have. The clamp is almost touching without the bolt even in it.

If the air tube is relying on the taper to close around the thread can you check it does not bottom out? If it does can you file the end off the taper to give some more clearance. Its surprising the tube moves as it has a thread on the tube aswell!

The tube part really confused me. I need to thread it in to get it into place. It is pretty loose while threading in. It is just strange with all those threads together. I would not expect it to take much to get a good grip.

 

[Ragno]

There was a lot if black ink/crud in it for sure. Took a long time to get it clean. I have not taken the cup of another one as I font want to screw up the alignment.

I am wondering if the hole was drilled wrong. Instead of a hole drilled through the side of the clamp. It is at the bottom.

I am so bad at trying to describe things. The bolt hole looks less like a drill hole and more like someone took a big bite out of a sandwich.

It seems strange to me that it has bad machining, I always thought that this airbrush model was top and that it had very well made grooves, I am surprised to hear you say that. In any case, if you post photos, we'll see what exactly you mean, out of curiosity.

 

[Ragno]

The clamp part looks worn. So I was probably going to shim the color cup and put a bit of plumbers tape on the tube arm. The parts work they just cannot grip hard enough. Of course dumb me lost the part for the blast tube arm while cleaning it. But I did find the air cap for my olypos when looking for the arm part. I gripped it in some soft jaw pliers and sent it flying like a month ago.

The only real parts I am missing are the grease cups. But those are cheap enough if I want to get them from Paasche.

First try increasing the diameter of the tube with a couple of turns of Teflon or some type of tape, even cellophane would work, it seems that from what you say the piece that is threaded into the cone that embraces the tube is not capable of reducing Enough to hold the tube tightly, if you increase the diameter of the tube, it will not need to be so tight or close so much to hold the tube and make it airtight without leaks.

 

[DaveG]

For the air blast tube, they don't need to be terribly tight as long as it will stay where you set it. I would just add a turn or two of teflon tape to the outer threaded section before screwing it. The lock nut will hold it where it needs to be. It is fine if it can be adjusted by hand without loosening the nut, as long as it is a snug adjustment. On the cup adjustment clamp - those little flat head screws are terrible for getting a good grip on - the hot ticket is to replace the screw with a 2x56 (I think this is the size) allen head screw. Use a washer behind the screw head to spread the load. Snug, not tight.

 

[Drastion]

The tube just needs a little more grip. So Teflon tape is the way to go.

The cup on the other hand needs way to much force to hold tight. It is defiantly not just snug. With the bore hole going out of the bottom of the plate instead of through it. It seems to be more deforming the metal rather than pushing it into place.

 

[Drastion]

Pearson Nut Roll to the rescue. Took a few tries but a candy bar wrapper in the cup sheath did the trick. It is not rock solid but it definitely will not move from a bump or anything and more importantly I just need to snug it up now to get it tight. So that's alk good now.

Now I just need to figure out were my goofy but lost the clamping nut for the blast tube.

Although I think I just realized what had been nagging at me. I should have probably realized it when I got it because the grease cups were gone. I put it back together the way it was when I got it. But I cannot seem to get the wheel positioned properly. With the walking arm dragging a bit on the frame and the bottom bearing topped out and the top bearing at the top of the hole.

Is the long bearing ment to be on the bottom and the short one supposed to be on the top? If so that would explain why I cannot get the walking arm to keep moving as long as my other ones do once the air is off.

 

[Wizard_Theron]

Pearson Nut Roll to the rescue. Took a few tries but a candy bar wrapper in the cup sheath did the trick. It is not rock solid but it definitely will not move from a bump or anything and more importantly I just need to snug it up now to get it tight. So that's alk good now.

Now I just need to figure out were my goofy but lost the clamping nut for the blast tube.

Although I think I just realized what had been nagging at me. I should have probably realized it when I got it because the grease cups were gone. I put it back together the way it was when I got it. But I cannot seem to get the wheel positioned properly. With the walking arm dragging a bit on the frame and the bottom bearing topped out and the top bearing at the top of the hole.

Is the long bearing ment to be on the bottom and the short one supposed to be on the top? If so that would explain why I cannot get the walking arm to keep moving as long as my other ones do once the air is off.

I’m pretty sure the long bearing goes on the top. Short bearing in the bottom.

What are the threads like which those bearings go into? They can become worn. If worn the bearing(s) may not stay where you put them.

 

[Drastion]

I’m pretty sure the long bearing goes on the top. Short bearing in the bottom.

What are the threads like which those bearings go into? They can become worn. If worn the bearing(s) may not stay where you put them.

This thing has been a complete bear. It was not the bearing placement. I fully disassembled it three times now. Turns out the walking arm is slightly bent where it connects to the trigger mechanism. The chrome plating is worn off at the front. So maybe to previous owner was trying to keep the arm from rising.

I tried to flatten it out as I assume it is supposed to be. It spins more free now. But now it sounds a bit like those toy cars your pushed along the floor to build up momentum and they would power themselves across the room.

So fix one problem creates another. It is really tough as I don't want to bend it out of place. At least I finally do not fear completely taking the thing apart.

Try try and try again.

 

[Wizard_Theron]

Well done for figuring out the problem with the walking arm. What do you think is causing the new noise?

 

[Drastion]

Well done for figuring out the problem with the walking arm. What do you think is causing the new noise?

I kept cleaning out the plunger arm. Whatever the part that connects the trigger to the walking arm to push it forward. But I could not get it to move freely side to side.

So I think it is getting cocked to the side. Making the arm smack on the linkage to the cam. It will make the turbo sound. But once it really gets up to speed something is not moving smoothly.

 

[Drastion]

I loosened up the bolt holding the arm on it is a little quieter now.

Shown a flashlight into the turbine chamber. Does not look like it is hitting the cam. Although the bearing is topped out and I can't get it to lift the arm properly.

This is all based on me trying to figure out how these things are supposed to work as I have never had a way for someone to show me how to balance out the fly wheel.

The arm is definitely vibrating up and down instead of just side to side. It does not look like it is hittingbthe cam though. So think either the plunger is keeping it cocked or the arm itself is twisted.

I am not sure how to take out the walking arm plunger since none of the diagrams I have found really show how this guy is put together.

 

[Wizard_Theron]

The plunger arm moves in and out with the trigger but not side to side, so far as I know, but it does rotate and that can impact the walking arm. I haven't had the plunger out but I think you probably need to remove the trigger or perhaps the valve to get it out. I could be wrong about that, I haven't tried. As long as the plunger moved forward/back with the trigger you probably don't need to take it out I'm guessing.

Have you seen the suggested process for adjusting the bearings in the AB maintainence manual in the resources section, here: https://airbrushforum.org/resources/the-paasche-ab-airbrush-maintenance-manual.22/ ? Bob pointed me to it and I found it very useful both to get it adjusted right and to understand how it all works. The steps include getting the walking arm/cam aligned correctly.

 

[Drastion]

The plunger arm moves in and out with the trigger but not side to side, so far as I know, but it does rotate and that can impact the walking arm. I haven't had the plunger out but I think you probably need to remove the trigger or perhaps the valve to get it out. I could be wrong about that, I haven't tried. As long as the plunger moved forward/back with the trigger you probably don't need to take it out I'm guessing.

Have you seen the suggested process for adjusting the bearings in the AB maintainence manual in the resources section, here: https://airbrushforum.org/resources/the-paasche-ab-airbrush-maintenance-manual.22/ ? Bob pointed me to it and I found it very useful both to get it adjusted right and to understand how it all works. The steps include getting the walking arm/cam aligned correctly.

I am really bad describing things in my head.

That is what I ment to say. The plunger arm does not rotate freely. So unless I get it just right it holds the walking arm a bit tilted. I may be wrong. But I thought the arm moved more freely in my other AB airbrush.

 

[Ragno]

I am really bad describing things in my head.

That is what I ment to say. The plunger arm does not rotate freely. So unless I get it just right it holds the walking arm a bit tilted. I may be wrong. But I thought the arm moved more freely in my other AB airbrush.

Do you have another one of the same model? another ab turbo?

 

[Drastion]

Do you have another one of the same model? another ab turbo?

Yeah I have one that is a much older design and one that I am a bit worried about fixing. It came in a box of airbrushes and was in a few pieces so I spent time getting the others going since they were much easier. The previous owner must have tried to make it a Passage model B. They twisted to cup way back and bent the needle guide post way back to keep the needle from bending farther than it already is. Really not looking forward to try and bend a post that is soldered to the body.

Figured I would need parts so I picked this one up.

 

[Drastion]

Yeah I am not in the right frame of mind to be working on the little metal parts. I thought the tube post was level with the frame. It was not and instead of straightening it I cracked and broke the weld. Oh well now maybe this one is the parts airbrush now.

When you run your AB airbrush what kind of sound does it make. Does it stay at a high pitched whine or as it picks up speed does it change into more of a hum.

Never heard anyone use one. So I am wondering if I am over revving it. My gauge says 22 psi and I drop it quite a ways with a mac valve.

Never listened to them right after each other. The one I just broke stays at a high pitch sound but the other two sound more like a race car than a jet.