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The Tape & Frisket Bible

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks!' started by crewchief227, Aug 6, 2018.


  1. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    @Vladimir yes its sort of a grey browny colour, Used it on a plastic panel and an aluminium panel, scuffed with scotchbrite, tack ragged and cleaned with wax and grease remover. your right its low tack but it worked ok for me.

    Lee
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  2. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    I'm asking why. Many people don't like 810 for its low tack, but I think in some cases this feature may work for our good, the question is where it would:) So I've bought only a few yards of 810, but not a whole roll, just to try it first and maybe then to buy a roll. So I'm curious now what people would say about the pros/contras of 810.

    Your answer is that I supposed to hear, sanded and well cleaned surface works fine.
    I've been told that applying it to unsanded base coat is no good, it doesn't work. So other film will work in such cases, I suppose.

    I've bought rolls of 811, 813 and some from Avery, but can't say almost anything for I haven't tried them yet. About 811 could say that it cuts well, weeding is great, where an element of the design is weeded you can see blue backing, it's real convenient. Tack of the film is good but not that strong.

    What kind of transfer papers/films do you all prefer and for which paint mask? It seems it's a big question to find proper one.
  3. crewchief227

    crewchief227 Gravity Guru

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    For transfer paper I used to use graphite Sural paper, but it is still a pain to erase fully, and is so dark that if I don't transfer straight on top my frisket, and transfer on my gesso, I will rub it out the best I can with a kneaded eraser, and then spray white paint till it's barely visible. The white paint also keeps the graphite from smearing later. Now since I tend to paint larger, I bought a cheap projector for my studio, and use a really hard lead, like a Mitsubishi Hi-Uni 6H. Oh and a warning out there, please oh please everybody, avoid Speedball gesso panels. They have the worse surface I have ever seen, first they have a wavy bumpy shimmery gesso, like it was pressed on to hard, paint won't stick to it even after sanding, and if you do any cutting, the gesso breaks away in little flakes along the cut line, and when you think you have a clean edge after painting a section, and lift up your frisket it just breaks away all the way down to the partical board. I've tried everything to make them work as I bought a 5 pack off of amazon, and threw three of them away.
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  4. Joe T

    Joe T Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Great thread here. Me, I’m a frog tape yellow kind of guy........reason, my boss lets me have all I want as we use it all day long 5 days a week! I think we have like 100 cases in the shop. I asked for a roll and he handed me a case of the stuff. He told me no need to ask for anything. We also use the devilbiss cups and I have a case of those as well. I digress, I like oracal 813 as well but don’t have the computer skills yet in illustrator to create a useable stencil...lol
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  5. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    Have you tried those from Saral that aren't graphite. There are different colour papers they produce, you can chose one right for the best fit or contrast (depending on your need) to the surface.

    I meant not this kind of transfer paper (tape):) I'm talking about those used for transferring of the cut design out of paint masks (810, 811, 813 etc) to the painted surface. I know these products behave differently and one needs to find certain type for certain application.

    Have you tried watercolour pencils for this need? You can chose any colour that fits the area you're going to paint and you don't have to struggle with them like you do with the graphite. For example you can use orange or red colour for outlining of the skin tone areas and you will not have to beat with black grafite lines, and you can choose proper colour for clothing of the reference.
    I use watercolour pencils and have zero issues with them, both for transferring from the projector and further work with the outlining on the surface.
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  6. crewchief227

    crewchief227 Gravity Guru

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    Oh that sounds like a dream to me. LOL
    Nope I haven't tried watercolor pencils, I would think they wouldn't last too long. Some of my paintings can go over a 100 hours and months of work, and multiple tapes. Plus depending on the piece I change colors anyways from any reference, and pick my own palettes, and color balancing, so I wouldn't know what color I was exactly gonna do. I do have 100's of watercolor, and regular colored pencils I haven't used in years. My kids mainly use them now, or sometimes the wife in those adult coloring books.
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