The Use of Frisket and Mask?

RebelAir

Air-Valve Autobot!
Out of interest would luv to know why many use this method. For me its an artistic hangover from a time when transparents were more heavily used. For example with a full opaque painting, even those utilizing transparent overlay at the end, we can and should always work from background to foreground, why shield of the foreground element? Why not complete your background and then re-apply the drawing of the foreground or simply re-base that foreground back on with a paper mask or too save time simply work around say a close up feature and not worry about slight overspray that may invade that area as its easily covered back up? There is reasons for this, mainly you won't have to worry about the mask or frisket pulling ya background paint, secondly its much quicker to re-project the foreground element back in than to cut a mask and just re-base it white or your base color need (Unless ya have a vinyl plotter), third it allows the foreground to sit on top of the background, not in it and it also avoids any hard edge buildup.

Originally frisket and liquid mask was used by water color artists as they could retain their whites or canvas color and of course those airbrush artists that heavily use transparents in the original build-up, which is important in transparent overlay but with opaques (That essentially are designed to overlay and cover a background element if taken to 100%) I struggle to understand why so many people use that method. Not saying its a bad method and each to their own if it works for you, especially on highly complex designs and there are times when we really do need to mask, but to me at times it seems overused, especially due to the issues it can create? And when I say masks I should really say sticky masks, I'll often use paper or my hand to shield an area off or create the odd hard edge.

Again just interested in what others think on this or why they utilize it so frequently, how they feel it works for them etc etc? There is no right and wrong, not saying don't use frisket, just wondering...
 
Good question. I tried frisket one time and hated it. I do occasionally tape something off (say spraying white against red)and use masks for logos and whatnot. It's a speed and clean thing for me. I try and stay as freehand as possible because it's quicker cause you don't spend a million hours cutting and placing. I cannot stand any kind of edge in my paintings, drives me insane. I've sanded off entire murals because of an edge. Without using masks there is no worry of an edge, and with control of which direction you are spraying, you can minimize overspray easily.
 
I don't like to use frisk but it often is a verry helpfull tool.

As you said when using transparants you will sometimes just have to use it as one realy can't have any overspray from the background in a face for instance as the overspray will remain visible.

But even with opaques it can be easier to mask things off. As the airbrush applies layers of pigment it will most of the time need serveral pases to get to full opacity. Most of the time when using opauqes one will not go there (still keeping it a tad transparant) so any overspray will remain slightly visible forcing one to get to full coverage when otherwise one could have get the wanted result with only a couple of passes of the airbrush.

When using erasing techniques one often tries to go back some layers of paint (not return to the white). When there is overspray present underneath some of the opaques the result of the erasing will varry. Also the overspray is an aditional layer making erasing a tad more difficult if one wants to get to the white.

As one of the main characteristics of the airbrush is overspay (and thats not a bad thing as it enables us to make all those nice transitions) its in the nature off the game that we are forced to use masks sometimes. Frisk is just one of the options that are avaliable to us for this. When doing a piece I always think ahead a bit and ask myself what will be the quickest method to get to the end result. With frisk theis means, will it be easier to get rid of any overspray in the area I want to frisk or will it be quicker to cover up/get rid off the hard line frisk creates.

nb As frisk creates a hard line it can sometimes be used to achieve just that when one wants a real hard line somewhere.
 
I have used it, i like it for some things but it has its downfalls aswell, sticky residue has caught me out, one piece comes to mind it was a quadrophenia painting i done for some one took bout 5/6 hours to cut it all out then had to redo it cause of the residue left behind [emoji35] wasnt a happy camper that day, but as haasje has said it can be useful for harder edges. I think its down to ability and confidence, the more i gain these the less ive used it. Well thats my two pence/cents worth
Peace
 
I know it can cause problems, and it can be a pain, and there are other cheaper/free and less time consuming methods. But every once in a while, it can come in handy. I don't like the look of opaques, especially on bikes as I think it can look kinda chalky. If ever I do use them, they are reduced so that they don't build to their full opacity, and so any overspray that I can't utilise could be an issue. I usually use hand held shields or paper masks, if i think freehanding won't give me a clean look, or I want a crisper edge (I can't use my hand, I have either stupid shaped hands that don't lie flat, and get underspray, or a stupid brain - no comments please LOL). It's not my first choice, but now and again a bit of frisket is just the job, as long as you take into account the pitfalls.
 
Now I did used to use Gerber mask. Works great and cuts easily. I used to use it to speed up intricate tribal designs back when that was possible.
 
It has it's place and I will use it or any other masking material if needed. It does not take much to get rid of a hard masking line.
 
I don't like to use frisk but it often is a verry helpfull tool.

As you said when using transparants you will sometimes just have to use it as one realy can't have any overspray from the background in a face for instance as the overspray will remain visible.

But even with opaques it can be easier to mask things off. As the airbrush applies layers of pigment it will most of the time need serveral pases to get to full opacity. Most of the time when using opauqes one will not go there (still keeping it a tad transparant) so any overspray will remain slightly visible forcing one to get to full coverage when otherwise one could have get the wanted result with only a couple of passes of the airbrush.

When using erasing techniques one often tries to go back some layers of paint (not return to the white). When there is overspray present underneath some of the opaques the result of the erasing will varry. Also the overspray is an aditional layer making erasing a tad more difficult if one wants to get to the white.

As one of the main characteristics of the airbrush is overspay (and thats not a bad thing as it enables us to make all those nice transitions) its in the nature off the game that we are forced to use masks sometimes. Frisk is just one of the options that are avaliable to us for this. When doing a piece I always think ahead a bit and ask myself what will be the quickest method to get to the end result. With frisk theis means, will it be easier to get rid of any overspray in the area I want to frisk or will it be quicker to cover up/get rid off the hard line frisk creates.

nb As frisk creates a hard line it can sometimes be used to achieve just that when one wants a real hard line somewhere.

What he said.
 
It has it's place and I will use it or any other masking material if needed. It does not take much to get rid of a hard masking line.
With urethane it can be. Especially with kandies. I've had jobs ruined because of the line edge left after layers of kandy.
 
I use it like toilet paper lmfao!! But, keep in mind, I started out doing helmets, and gas tanks etc. I (imagine this), am the opposite of all you wonderful peeps. I learned from MANY of you, how NOT to use it. But, like the motor home for instance, because it was so HUGE, hell yes, I used frisket. The go cart I did today, yep, used it on the front. Golf carts and such?, mer...sometimes, if its a two tone, then yeah, 3m, and frisket, lays down better. Im just so used to it, that I know how to work it. (Thats not to say, I didnt swear ALOT when I first started with it lol)
 
If you do technical illustrations then you can not do without it. But then again, who does that with airbrush anymore. Wait, I did one the other day.
 
about every time I've tryed it it pulled some paint not alot but some just enough to piss me off lol
 
about every time I've tryed it it pulled some paint not alot but some just enough to piss me off lol

I have two brands and use them at different stages. The one peels the paint as well and only use that on an unpainted surface. The other is a bit tougher to cut but does not peel the paint. I've gotten use to knowing when to use which one.
 
Know what ya saying Andre but even with technical pics (Spose how technical though LOL), it can be done without frisket. Back in my Graphic Arts we used to just make our own stencils with paper or acetate sheets, works fine, frisket was way to expensive to let the kiddies have LOL..Its more I'm wondering on the simple side of life, its just that I see many using it to block out simple shapes or foregrounds, was just wondering why? On smaller pics it does come into its own a bit but work a bit bigger and I've never seen a real need..More prob aimed at beginners, wondering where they see it used so much to consider its the norm as many seem to. Again I do see it as a useful tool but more so in the hands of those who really understand why they're using it and not overusing it..Freehands so much easier LOL
 
I first started with (go ahead, start laughing now lol) thick drawing paper (purchased at a garage sale), then bought some adhesive. After said item, was traced onto the paper, I would stick it, and cut it. (Lots of un necessary work), then, used contact paper.Not the greatest idea, seeings how, I never knew about reducing the paint to a few drops, bled through like a hooker in church! Finally broke down, bought the automotive frisket, (joined the Orange clan), and never looked back :D
 
I have a load of frisket but I don't have the patience to use it, I tried it once and lost my rag trying to get it where I wanted it to go, if anything all I may use now are freehand stencils or my hand, all I use the frisket for these days is precise placement of vinyl lettering and decals on my model planes, for that it's ideal and I can use it again if I simply return it to it's backing paper.
 
I always just de tack masking tape etc by sticking it to my t- shirt a time or two. I've only ever used low tack frisket (probably why I don't like it much, as it moves) so haven't done it to that.
 
Does anyone de-tack their Frisket and if so, how?

I tried to de-tack mine by sticking to the neighbours dog, that was two years ago and the dogs still has it on, I tried to remove a little bit of it but I could the dog's ribcage so I quickly put it back, ;):whistling::)
 
On one of the courses I did with Simon Murray we used Frisket but I've forgotten how we used it! I think we put a picture inside a poly pocket and stuck the frisket onto that, drew the pictures key points and then re-stuck the frisket to the painting surface ..... One of the problems with courses is you get so much information that unless you have a fantastic memory or take lots of notes you tend to forget so much :(
 
Back
Top