Theoretically question about reducer

huskystafford

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I will go straight to the point. Each month I get few more colors. And my color collection is getting bigger each day. That gives me option to experiment with colors and to learn more about my self what my eyes like.

I shoot around 40 psi more or less. It depends. But I have much better control if I use less psi. For that I need to reduce the color, so it goes out of the airbrush.

I use wicked paints, and if I use createx reducer I have a ''pot'' time 72 hours. Unless, if I would use automotive reducer, which according to createx doesn't have pot time, but I don't wonna use it. Because it looks more nasty then 4012. Correct me if I am wrong.

Now here lies the problem: If I shoot with my bottom feed I could change colors very fast if they would be reduced in the bottles. But they aren't. Even if I would reduce them, they would be crap in 72 hours... And speed wise I would love to use them straight out of bottle and just fast switch them. I would be glad to reduce colors in advance if they wouldn't have pot time. I already gathered bunch of empty createx bottles, which are waiting to be used. I have bunch of badger converters for createx bottles for bottom feed as well.

On the other hand whenever I see some video I see guys how they shoot straight out of the bottle... Am I missing something? Is there a reducer for createx colors which doesn't have a ''pot'' time?
 
I shoot around 40 psi more or less.

On the other hand whenever I see some video I see guys how they shoot straight out of the bottle... Am I missing something? Is there a reducer for createx colors which doesn't have a ''pot'' time?

Shooting straight from the bottle if using Illustration is possible (fine pigment) wicked /wicked detail normally need reducing. A siphon Airbrush requires a higher psi than gravity feed so you wouldnt need quite as much reducer

Short answer, no, all “mixed with reducer” will have a shelf life. What that shelf life is will vary from one user to the next. From one paint to another (even within one brand)
The amount of reduction, Environmental factors (hot/cold/humid) come into play.
72 hours is a number that Createx feel comfortable with.

Avoid the 4020 automotive reducer, it contains acetone and you need a GOOD respirator if you want to keep your lungs and nasal cavity in good shape.

I would suggest you experiment - grab an empty bottle. Mix a small amount of paint and equal parts of 4012 reducer (enough to suck up the tube and do several test spray) mix it, leave it a few days (off the Airbrush, with the tube and air vent capped) then give it a mix and spray some of it, leave the bottle a few more days as above and test spray again. You may find you’ll get a week or more from it.

I personally wouldn’t premix more than I would plan to use in a few days.
 
Hi, i`ve never used Createx paints till now. Bought the 403o reducer also, and decided not to use it after reading the warnings. I`ve read that you can use just plain old water. Going to give it a try. Lot safer.
 
Hi, i`ve never used Createx paints till now. Bought the 403o reducer also, and decided not to use it after reading the warnings. I`ve read that you can use just plain old water. Going to give it a try. Lot safer.
4030 is not a reducer.
https://createxcolors.com/airbrush-colors/reducers-clears/4030.html

for reducing you use this:
https://createxcolors.com/airbrush-colors/reducers-clears/4012.html

I did reduce with water for my airbrushing on paper training, but I noticed or maybe I think I noticed lol , that paint acts different if I use reducer or water.

We talked in few posts about this reducer and looks like it doesn't have pot time, but has bunch of health hazard warnings:
https://autoaircolors.com/custom-automotive-paint/4020.html
 
4030 is an additive, not a reducer. It helps Createx behave more like a urethane and hardens better.
Createx has mild solvent so adding water can cause issues. It’s waterborne not waterbased
 
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