upgrading Hp-cs or Hp-bcs ??

[bambam634]

I have been using the Neo Cn and BCN on and off for the last couple years. for the most part i have been playing around on random airbrushing on anything from my kids batting helmets, t-shirts , i have made family members auto tags , personalized water coolers for team sports. All that i feel look like CRAP... I have sprayed wicked paint, createx and auto air. I feel that no matter what air pressure or reduction i use it will not be consistent. My first thought was it was the neo cn's fault and i needed to get a bigger needle set up. So i bought the BCN Neo. I feel that when i put the .5 into the CN it made no change,, Then i put the .35 into the BCN and i noticed a difference some what for the better but still inconstant. I feel like no matter what i do i either have runs and spidering because my airbrush is not spraying consistent... part of me feels like just giving my hobby up completely... Do you think that the Iwata Neo is the culprit??? or is it all in my head
Sorry for the rambling

 

[Samantha Freeman]

What compressor? Are you certain you are not getting water in your line?

The pulsating tells me that it's the compressor either the cfm isn' there or you don' have a tank. The spidering tells me moisture is getting in your line. Sorry at work will check later

 

[Mr.Micron]

Well first off what compressor are you using a tankless or one with a tank and regulator on it?
When you say you put the .5 into the cs and the .35 into the bcs do you mean the complete nozzle air cap and needle or are you just swapping needles.
The culprit is leaning the paint reduction for the conditions you are spraying in. On the .5 with Wicked you should be able to pretty much spray it straight out he bottle at 35psi. depending on color that is.
So in this case a lot more information is needed to be able to really offer you good advice on what the problem is.

While the Neo is branded by Iwata it is not made by Iwata .
So if you would please tell use paint reduction and PSI and what colors are giving you the most trouble.

 

[Mr.Micron]

What compressor? Are you certain you are not getting water in your line?

The pulsating tells me that it's the compressor either the cfm isn' there or you don' have a tank. The spidering tells me moisture is getting in your line. Sorry at work will check later

Spidering is not always water in the line but over reduction at to high of an air pressure setting.

 

[Airbrush Dreams]

I have been using the Neo Cn and BCN on and off for the last couple years. for the most part i have been playing around on random airbrushing on anything from my kids batting helmets, t-shirts , i have made family members auto tags , personalized water coolers for team sports. All that i feel look like CRAP... I have sprayed wicked paint, createx and auto air. I feel that no matter what air pressure or reduction i use it will not be consistent. My first thought was it was the neo cn's fault and i needed to get a bigger needle set up. So i bought the BCN Neo. I feel that when i put the .5 into the CN it made no change,, Then i put the .35 into the BCN and i noticed a difference some what for the better but still inconstant. I feel like no matter what i do i either have runs and spidering because my airbrush is not spraying consistent... part of me feels like just giving my hobby up completely... Do you think that the Iwata Neo is the culprit??? or is it all in my head
Sorry for the rambling

Spidering and runs are caused by too much air pressure and being to close to the surface. It is not just the airbrush. I would step up to the HP-CS because of the interchangeable needle set up and the ability to lower the air pressure. You will notice a big change using gravity feed. Most people preach about reducing the paint, but with a larger needle and using the paint you mentioned there shouldn’t really be a need to reduce even with the CS. When you over reduce you need to step down the pressure a lot because of these things you mentioned. Also you will need to build you layers of color slower. Don’t try to cover the surface in one pass.


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[Samantha Freeman]

Spidering is not always water in the line but over reduction at to high of an air pressure setting.

Oh I agree but I assumed because of the syntax and I have to keep my answers short

 

[bambam634]

What compressor? Are you certain you are not getting water in your line?

The pulsating tells me that it's the compressor either the cfm isn' there or you don' have a tank. The spidering tells me moisture is getting in your line. Sorry at work will check later

I had originally thought that too...but with my air set up I'm not sure how that could be
My set up is a 6 gal pancake compressor with an inline moisture trap that goes to an 11 gal portable air receiver tank. Coming from that is my inline air regulator then to my air brush hose with paasche moisture trap.

 

[Mr.Micron]

I had originally thought that too...but with my air set up I'm not sure how that could be
My set up is a 6 gal pancake compressor with an inline moisture trap that goes to an 11 gal portable air receiver tank. Coming from that is my inline air regulator then to my air brush hose with paasche moisture trap.

so at what PSI do you have the airbrush set to?
Paasche moisture trap?? WHY ! The pistol grip moisture traps are see through and you can tell fast if you have a build up of moisture in the line .
But the way I understand you set up is you have something design to produce 6 gallons of air now filling 17 gallons of air? That 6 gallon tank should be all you need to airbrush .

 

[Samantha Freeman]

Oh now im onterested in the culprit. 'Breaks open bag of popcorn'

 

[bambam634]

Well first off what compressor are you using a tankless or one with a tank and regulator on it?
When you say you put the .5 into the cs and the .35 into the bcs do you mean the complete nozzle air cap and needle or are you just swapping needles.
The culprit is leaning the paint reduction for the conditions you are spraying in. On the .5 with Wicked you should be able to pretty much spray it straight out he bottle at 35psi. depending on color that is.
So in this case a lot more information is needed to be able to really offer you good advice on what the problem is.

While the Neo is branded by Iwata it is not made by Iwata .
So if you would please tell use paint reduction and PSI and what colors are giving you the most trouble.

I was swapping out the Needle , Nozzle, and nozzle cap each time.
The colors i mainly was playing with were Opaque White, Cobalt Blue, along with the createx transparent color set.
I would use with the .35 set up gravity feed... 2 parts paint - 2 parts wicked 4030 and 1 part 4012 @ 20-40 psi
on the .50 gravity feed i used 4 parts paint - 2 to 2 parts 4030 at closer to 25 psi
with the siphon feed with the .5 i tried straight thru the bottle but i had to turn air pressure up to around 45-55 psi.
I didnt have as much trouble doing a base coat and getting it to lay good. but would mainly have the most problems when i would be laying paint in short burst.. ( like dagger strokes ) or lettering

 

[bambam634]

so at what PSI do you have the airbrush set to?
Paasche moisture trap?? WHY ! The pistol grip moisture traps are see through and you can tell fast if you have a build up of moisture in the line .
But the way I understand you set up is you have something design to produce 6 gallons of air now filling 17 gallons of air? That 6 gallon tank should be all you need to airbrush .

LOL the paache was the only one Hobby lobby had in stock at the time..
your absoutly correct about the air set up. But I was thinking at the time that for some reason i was not getting a constant PSI to my airbrush. - Thats not case but I have tried

 

[SiRoxx]

I’m wondering if it’s a simple case of trying to put done a little too much paint in one go. I see you’ve been Airbrushing for a while so I really don’t want to sound patronising. Do you have any photos of the problem you’re having? Maybe a picture of something you felt went wrong and shows the spidering. It might help to figure out what’s going on.


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[bambam634]

Please don't feel like your patronizing me. I have been playing around with it on and off for a while now, but I have yet to get it figured out to where i am happy with the outcome.. I will try and get some pictures tonight and post them.
1 good example would be - I had did a rainbow affect on a license plate for my sisters birthday present, When i went to airbrush ( #1 Aunt ) the gun was spraying so intermittently it was crazy. I would only think that one layer of paint should be enough with out having to go back over it to try and darken it up. now going back a couple more passes to add shading and effects yes,

 

[SiRoxx]

Please don't feel like your patronizing me. I have been playing around with it on and off for a while now, but I have yet to get it figured out to where i am happy with the outcome.. I will try and get some pictures tonight and post them.
1 good example would be - I had did a rainbow affect on a license plate for my sisters birthday present, When i went to airbrush ( #1 Aunt ) the gun was spraying so intermittently it was crazy. I would only think that one layer of paint should be enough with out having to go back over it to try and darken it up. now going back a couple more passes to add shading and effects yes,

Ok that’s cool, just wanting to make sure it wasn’t coming over badly .
Some pictures could be really helpful, also some information on what surface you’re painting (as in plastic, metal, wood). Then the specific paint used on that job. I know that sounds like a lot of detail but for example - Wicked Colours are a bit more transparent than others, so trying to get the full colour from one go is likely to end up with the colour running as it’s going on too wet. When the air hits that it spiders out.
Even with a solid base colour like Red or Blue etc, Wicked and most other air rush paints would need several light coats to go on without running. The nozzle of an airbrush is so small that paint needs to be very thin to pass through consistently, because of that, it takes a few passes of light coats to cover.
This could all be adding up. Your reduction sounded a little thick (although it is a case of whatever works for you), but with Wicked through a .35 nozzle I have found that 1 drop of paint needs 4 drops of 4012 reducer to flow nicely around 20psi. But that will take several light coats to cover.
I hope that makes some sense.


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[SiRoxx]

And I’m hardly an expert myself [emoji3]. So I’m sure somebody else with dive in if I’m leading you the wrong way.


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[Mr.Micron]

I have always suggested learning that paint.
2 drops straight paint @ 35 PSI see how it sprays , if it is grainy then add 1 drop of reducer until you get good flow .
White is the hardest color to use mainly because it has the largest pigment too much reduction and you will spider out, not enough it will look like you are sprays flock for a christmas tree. Tip dry on white will always happen that is just the nature of white.
but learning the paint system you are using will make using the paints more enjoyable. and no all Createx line is not equal being the AA need more reduction then the WICKED line and the WICKED line needs more then the illustration line.

 

[SiRoxx]

I have always suggested learning that paint.
2 drops straight paint @ 35 PSI see how it sprays , if it is grainy then add 1 drop of reducer until you get good flow .
White is the hardest color to use mainly because it has the largest pigment too much reduction and you will spider out, not enough it will look like you are sprays flock for a christmas tree. Tip dry on white will always happen that is just the nature of white.
but learning the paint system you are using will make using the paints more enjoyable. and no all Createx line is not equal being the AA need more reduction then the WICKED line and the WICKED line needs more then the illustration line.

You beat me to it Mr M. That was going to be my next post depending on the reply [emoji3].


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[bambam634]

Well unfortunately no luck with getting the pictures yet. So far i am mainly airbrushing plastic and metal and a little bit on cotton shirts. but with the cotton its not a problem with splatter or spidering (obviously) its just the non smooth flow of paint from the gun. I am starting to understand the difference's in createx paint spraying totally different, its like some colors will spay nice and others not so good. which got me thinking I needed to be using a .5 needle and not the .35, then when i tried that with no luck, I could only assume it was the actual gun not spaying constant or back to some possible way i was getting moisture in my air line.
So I wonder if maybe it all comes back to not getting the correct reduction or maybe i should look into another line of paints for what i am trying to do.

 

[SiRoxx]

Well unfortunately no luck with getting the pictures yet. So far i am mainly airbrushing plastic and metal and a little bit on cotton shirts. but with the cotton its not a problem with splatter or spidering (obviously) its just the non smooth flow of paint from the gun. I am starting to understand the difference's in createx paint spraying totally different, its like some colors will spay nice and others not so good. which got me thinking I needed to be using a .5 needle and not the .35, then when i tried that with no luck, I could only assume it was the actual gun not spaying constant or back to some possible way i was getting moisture in my air line.
So I wonder if maybe it all comes back to not getting the correct reduction or maybe i should look into another line of paints for what i am trying to do.

The biggest breakthrough I had was following Mr.Micron’s suggestion and seeing how it works out. Try some Wicked on a hard surface start with 1 drop of paint, 1 drop of reducer at 35psi, then keep adding reducer until you can shoot a nice clean line. Don’t worry about coverage with just a single line, just go for a smooth thin line.


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[Mr.Micron]

Plus a lot of folks starting out and I was guilty of it too is trying to get full color on the first pass rather then building your color slowly.
That is why learning how the paint flows and at what reduction is important.