urethane vs water based

R

Rees

Guest
So, I got a chance to go watch an AB demo put on by Iwata last week. Darren Wenzel from Gasoline Art was the featured artist. He did a really nice canvas piece. I couldn't help but notice how well his paint cooperated. He never once had to mess with his tip the first hour and a half of the demo. During the break I talked to him a bit and he showed me how easy the urethane based paint worked. I have never used anything but water based, so I was amazed by the difference. Is there any particular reason not to switch to the stuff? He never had to fight tip dry, no spitting or sputtering. It was the greatest thing ever! And yes, I use reducer and a filter at my brush. I have taken my mixture all the way up to a 70-30 and never gotten anywhere near the smoothness of what he had going on. What gives?
 
I absolutely love urethanes and they do spray pretty smooth but I get tip dry with any paint system but it is significantly less with urethanes. The one thing I like is urethanes almost dry instantly and the chance of spidering is less likely. Urethanes are great if you have the right space to paint in with good ventilation so if your painting in the house or basement water base is the way to go. I have recently bought some e'tac and this stuff is amazing for water base paints. I still get tip dry but I just put some restorer on a cotton ball and dab the tip into it and it cleans it just fine. But if I'm doing any art work on helmets or motorcycles I'll stick with my uros since that's what I learned on and nothing beats them yet in my opinion.
 
I love painting in my nice air conditioned house, but for that difference I'll sweat in the garage!
 
I'm sure you've seen nice paintings also done in waterbased? Tip dry a lot of the time is also "helped out" by the user, uro's def suffer from it a little less though and do spray very nice, only prob is that they will try to kill you. LOL Out in the shed and away from others give it a swing, use a respirator and all good and I would be surprised Iwata wld put on a demo and not spruke about the dangers of such, did darren wear a espirator, did
anyone in the demo wear one? If not naughty naughty LOL..Personally I dont use uros for canvas work, if you want to do any erasing I suggest you stick it out with water based plus just more safe..Uros shld be used what they were made for and thats auto/metal work..Best of luck..
 
I absolutely love urethanes and they do spray pretty smooth but I get tip dry with any paint system but it is significantly less with urethanes. The one thing I like is urethanes almost dry instantly and the chance of spidering is less likely. Urethanes are great if you have the right space to paint in with good ventilation so if your painting in the house or basement water base is the way to go. I have recently bought some e'tac and this stuff is amazing for water base paints. I still get tip dry but I just put some restorer on a cotton ball and dab the tip into it and it cleans it just fine. But if I'm doing any art work on helmets or motorcycles I'll stick with my uros since that's what I learned on and nothing beats them yet in my opinion.
Using a little med reducer with mostly slow reducer and a splash of lacquer thinner has produced no tip dry for me. I've never experienced tip dry until I tried water based and was like what's this crap hell no and threw it all away

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I have seen wonderful paintings done with waterbased. I'm not knocking the medium, but as getting a consistent product is something I struggle with, this seemed like something I should look into. I've researched all over this site, I've adjusted reducer rates, air flow, it doesn't seem to matter. Soon as I let off the air one time I got problems if I go back in without clearing the tip. He never had that problem, he'd paint for 30-45 minutes at a stretch without ever having to fiddle with the tip.I just get frustrated easily...
 
I play around with waterbased and uros, it depends on what I'm painting on. I can't say I have tip dry issues with the uros as cleaning the tip as I go has become second nature. It's worth sweating in the garage.
 
Hey matty you actually add lacquer thinner into your mix and don't have any problems? If it works I'll definitely have to try that on a practice piece. I don't use water base enough but when I'm trying super detail I sometimes struggle cuz I try to reduce my wickeds to thin and it can get away from you. But like I said earlier I absolutely love theses e'tac paints. I did my whole pp4 with them and had no issues whatsoever. If your a little hesitant on spending a lot of money for the HOK name I also use Xotic urethanes from Innate.com. They have a color comparison chart that includes every HOK paint in the line up and to me they spray the same and are cheaper. Some days I can paint all day and have no issues and some days I can't get anything to spray right, there's just so many variables that come into play. It's all part of the painting game lol!
 
I have seen wonderful paintings done with waterbased. I'm not knocking the medium

Didn't intend to mean you were, just meant that its possible and more time with working out ya paint is the need, even maybe try some different brands as we all have our faves, what brand are ya using and have ya tried others?..Sometimes the grass isn't always greener, uros too have setbacks, especially in their nastiness and for canvas work prob not the best choice unless ya protect yourself and anyone around ya. I am an advocate of uro's love them LOL and if they look a good option to you give em a try, just remember their not really and indoor type paint..The shed may have to suffice LOL.
 
I have seen wonderful paintings done with waterbased. I'm not knocking the medium, but as getting a consistent product is something I struggle with, this seemed like something I should look into. I've researched all over this site, I've adjusted reducer rates, air flow, it doesn't seem to matter. Soon as I let off the air one time I got problems if I go back in without clearing the tip. He never had that problem, he'd paint for 30-45 minutes at a stretch without ever having to fiddle with the tip.I just get frustrated easily...
If you haven't tried ETAC, they are the best spraying water based paints I've used. Com-Art is a close second. If you have problems spraying either of them, there is probably something wrong with your airbrush.
 
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