Waiting impatiently.

[Info overload]

After the reviews about badgers customer support. I have made a new purchase. The renegade velocity. I will be adding this to my stable of airbrushes: The Paasche VL and the Iwata HP-CS.

In the mean time I have an old badger Crescendo 175 that turned into a machine gun a few years ago (Imagine spitting paint like an auto. machine gun and you got it). I used only acrylic paints in it (Parma fascolor thinned to milk consistency) and thought I had done a good job with the clean up.

I disassembled the brush, soaked the body in lacquer thinner after soaking it for about 45 minutes. I wasn't too surprised to see a few specks of paint in the thinner. I then replaced the valve, needle, tip, and spray regulator. With the work I put into it the machine gun effect is improved, But it still has a little remaining (Like spraaaaayyyy...spit spit...spraaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy spit...etc) other than the spit when it is spraying paint flow is Okay. And there is no tip try to speak of. Also I'm not hearing any back flow bubbles in the paint bottle.

So I'm a little lost with it. It has been sitting for 6 months since the last time I fooled with it. I'm kind of counting on it being a lost cause, but I just hate to give up on it. Anyone think of anything I missed?

 

[Info overload]

Oops I realized I put this in the wrong forum. Feel free to move it.

 

[Bossman]

I had this same thing happen to my crescendo. I let it sit for years till someone suggested sending it in to badger. They fixed it and sent it back. I never did know what the problem was.

The 175 is my one Badger brush I not only kept, but would shoot someone if they tried to take it.

 

[KenBadger]

After the reviews about badgers customer support. I have made a new purchase. The renegade velocity. I will be adding this to my stable of airbrushes: The Paasche VL and the Iwata HP-CS.

In the mean time I have an old badger Crescendo 175 that turned into a machine gun a few years ago (Imagine spitting paint like an auto. machine gun and you got it). I used only acrylic paints in it (Parma fascolor thinned to milk consistency) and thought I had done a good job with the clean up.

I disassembled the brush, soaked the body in lacquer thinner after soaking it for about 45 minutes. I wasn't too surprised to see a few specks of paint in the thinner. I then replaced the valve, needle, tip, and spray regulator. With the work I put into it the machine gun effect is improved, But it still has a little remaining (Like spraaaaayyyy...spit spit...spraaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy spit...etc) other than the spit when it is spraying paint flow is Okay. And there is no tip try to speak of. Also I'm not hearing any back flow bubbles in the paint bottle.

So I'm a little lost with it. It has been sitting for 6 months since the last time I fooled with it. I'm kind of counting on it being a lost cause, but I just hate to give up on it. Anyone think of anything I missed?

Sounds like your needle bearing's gone bad. Follow instructions at this link: Service/Support and we'll get it taken care of for you. If out of USA/Canada, email me (kenbadger@aol.com). We may have a service outlet closer to you.

 

[KenBadger]

Additional troubleshooting info:

TECHNICALAND TECHNIQUE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS: cause / corrective measure​

1) Bubblingin color reservoir (color cup or jar): A. Damaged nozzle seal / Make certain the paint tipis properly seated in the angled recess of the airbrush body, and that all surfacesbetween the two components are cleared of any debris and are not marred orscratched. B. Tip dry /Remove the dried paint from the paint tip by picking it off with your fingernails or spraying cleaner through the airbrush. If tip dry occurs frequently in your application, it is helpful to keepa paint brush and small container of water nearby to wet the paint tip whennecessary to get your airbrush spraying properly again. Tip dry will occur more frequently duringdetail airbrushing applications, and when spraying at higher air pressures. C. Incorrectspray regulator alignment / Tighten or loosen your spray regulator in ¼ turn orlesser increments to determine if that is the cause of the problem. If it is, your airbrush will stop bubblingand resume spraying once you hit the spray regulator’s “sweet spot”. D. Splitpaint tip / Replace the paint tip. 2) Off-centerspray: A. Bent needle tip / Carefully attempt tostraighten the needle tip. A groovedsharpening stone is an effective device for straightening bent airbrush needletips. If you are unable to straightenthe needle tip, a replacement needle will need to be installed to correct theoff-center spray concern. 3) Air on butno color spraying: A. Swollen or damaged air valve o-ring / If airvalve or-ring is swollen due to soaking airbrush allow it to dry out. It may return to its correct size. If o-ring does not return to its correct sizeor is damaged and not functioning properly, it needs to be replaced. 4)Media/color seeping to rear of airbrush: A. Damaged or worn PTFE inner seal / Tighten innerseal adjustment to restore seal around airbrush needle and stop seepage ofmedia/color to the rear of the airbrush. If seal is not adjustable, it needs to be replaced. 5) Spray willnot shut off and/or occurs without sliding the trigger back: A. Improper seating of the needle in the paint tip/ Re-seat the needle by loosening the needle locking nut and sliding the needleforward until it stops and seats in the nozzle tip, then re-tighten the needlelocking nut. DO NOT USE FORCE whenseating the needle in the nozzle tip, when it stops it should be seatedproperly. B. “Flared” paint tip / It is necessary to replacethe nozzle tip. C. Partial tip dry / Remove the dried paint from theneedle/nozzle tip by picking it off with your finger nails or spraying cleanerthrough the airbrush. If tip dry occursfrequently in your application, it may be helpful to keep a paint brush andsmall container of water nearby to wet the nozzle and get your airbrushspraying properly again when necessary. Tip dry will occur more frequently in detail airbrushingapplications. 6) Spraypattern pulsation: A. Damagedseal / Low levels of air leakage are common, and should not adversely affect anairbrush’s spray performance. Check allthreaded parts and seals to ensure there is no excessive air leakage at any ofthese points. The air hose connection atthe airbrush should be properly sealed. If there is air leakage at this connection, it can be effectively sealedwith the wrapping of PTFE “plumber’s” tape around the male threaded part. Theairbrush also has an inner seal that the needle passes through. If the airbrush’s inner seal is not sealingproperly, it needs to be replaced. Thisreplacement is done inserting a small flat-head screw driver into the back sideof the airbrush body and removing the old seal by turning it counter clock-wiseuntil it comes out, then inserting the new seal into the back of the airbrushbody and turning it clock-wise to secure it into place. B. Inconsistent media viscosity / paint should be adjusted to properspraying viscosity. The rule of thumb for preparing media for airbrushing is tothin to the equivalent viscosity of skim milk. As starting paint viscosities vary from color to color, even within thesame paint brand, it is best to avoid fixed thinning ratios. C. Inadequate air supply / it may be necessary to repair or replace the airsupply.

 

[KenBadger]

7) Air leakage at threaded connection: A. Parts not securely tightened / On finger tight assembly nozzles, firmly grip connecting parts in fingers and tighten. Some nozzles/components may require a wrench/pliers to tighten. It is advisable to pad the wrench/pliers to avoid marring or stripping the components. B. Threads not sealed / some airbrushes, designed with easier maintenance finger tight assembly nozzles, will have slight air leakage at nozzle connections. This slight air leakage is expected and incorporated into the nozzle’s design. Air leakage is a concern if the airbrush does not atomize properly. In instances where the airbrush does not atomize properly - if the air leakage is at the nozzle, it is recommended to seal the nozzle threads with bee’s wax or chapstick. If the air leakage is at the hose/valve casing connection, it is recommended to wrap the male threads of the connection with PTFE “plumber’s tape”. 8) Grainy spray: A. Media not properly thinned / Media should be the viscosity equivalent of skim milk to spray properly. Add the appropriate thinning agent to reduce the media to a spray-able viscosity. B. Inadequate air pressure / make sure your air source is supplying adequate air pressure: Gravity feed airbrush 10-30psi / Bottom feed airbrush 20-40psi 9) Dot blotching or spattering at beginning or end of spraying: A: Nozzle flooded with media / “flooding” the nozzle occurs when the airbrush is not triggered properly. It is important to learn and use correct airbrush triggering technique - make sure to always return the trigger to the forward (color off) position before releasing the trigger to turn off air. 10) Centipede/spider spray patterns or buckling surface: A. Paint is too thin / remix paint or start with fresh paint that is proper viscosity for spraying. B. Too much media released while spraying close to the surface / take care to not slide trigger back too far, releasing too much media, when working close to the surface. C. Media applied too heavily / apply media in lighter/softer coats – allowing one coat to dry before applying another. 11) “Barbell”spray patterns, flared spray pattern ends, and/or curved spray pattern: A. Improper triggering technique / be sure to begin hand movement before sliding trigger back to release color, and do not stop your hand movement before returning trigger to the forward position to turn off color flow. This can only be corrected through practice of proper triggering techniques. B. Turning wrist at end spray stroke or arcing closer to the surface during the spray stroke / learn proper triggering technique and practice, practice, practice!

 

[David Monnig]

We are also happy to fix it here at coast airbrush !
Same day turnaround !

 

[Info overload]

Thanks for the reply guys I think I might send it out to badger will be some time after the holidays though. Working retail doesn't give you a lot of spare time this time of year.