Warning...Newbie alert.

  • Thread starter Richard Carlisle
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Richard Carlisle

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Hi everyone. Just joined and relatively new at airbrushing. I've been into car painting for a while and have dabbled with the airbrush for doing drop shadows on graphics, but that's about it. Nothing with any degree of detail. I've just begun to get serious about detail airbrushing.

So the issue at the moment seems to be getting paint to flow consistently. Here's my setup. Air comes from a large compressor that feeds the whole shop into a separate water trap and regulator in my airbrush room. The airbrush is a Paasche Talon gravity that is about a year old with a .38 needle. It always worked fine for blasting drop shadows down, but seems finicky when trying to apply any amount of detail. Seems like the amount you pull the trigger back to release a specific amount of paint is never the same, which makes it real hard to get the "feel" for the airbrush. Thinking maybe the airbrush is just old and possibly damaged, I ordered another Talon that's not here yet. This one has .25, .38 and .66 needle.

The paint I'm using is Wicked and Auto Air. I don't think I have a handle on thinning yet. I'm thinking 1:1 but I see some people mixing up to 10:1 reducer:paint. So basically, I'm not sure if my problems are viscosity related, airbrush related or operator error. If the Talon is junk, I have no problem buying something else. I'd like to be able to do general work, but also very fine detail. If that means two airbrushes, that's no problem. I believe in having the right equipment and don't want to struggle through the learning phase because I have a junk airbrush.

Any advice is welcome. Is the Talon junk? What are your preferred reduction ratios for Wicked and AutoAir?

Thanks
 
welcome aboard Richard.
A lot use the wicked paint and as you've stated the reductions can be 1:10 or more depending on the degree of detail you want to achieve and the brush you are using.
Generally the guide is the more detail you want, the lower the psi so that means thinner paint. so there is no magic formula. a fine needle also helps but some of the masters will blow hair lines out of a straw !
The Iwata HP-CS is regarded as a good all round workhorse. Createx Wicked / illustration will require the Createx reducers.
As for the brush not being consistant with the paint point on the trigger, there are numerous reasons why that can happen, worn parts being one of them.
Wait until you get your new brush and see what the difference is.
 
Cant speak for the brush mate as ive never tried one, ive only used wicked white for tshirts thro a Neo 0.35 and found it thick with lots of tip dry. Reductions and air pressure is a skill in itself and what might work for me might not work for you, room temp humidity etc all come into play.
Also you could have some debris in around the nozzle so a good cleaning would do no harm if its been a while from your last one. It will take you a while to get to learn what works for you but once you get a grip on it itll become second nature

Oh and welcome on board, theres loads of info and tutorials on the forum dig in and start learning [emoji4][emoji4][emoji4]


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Hi Richard, welcome from New Zealand... First things first... compared to a spray gun, an airbrush is a finicky race car... you have all the basic skills but slinging an airbrush takes a lot more practice... dots and daggers... :) They are a lot more sensitive that spray guns as well. Then there is playing with the reduction. The 0.38 will get some pretty fine detail but that won't happen without practice. You can go to a smaller nozzle but without practice you'll still end up frustrated. Have a look at the Airbrushtutors page and go through the tutorials, that will give you a good start.
 
Thanks guys. I've really been enjoying AirbrushTutors videos. Aside from being very informative, he's entertaining. Some of the videos on YouTube will put you to sleep. I'll probably order his Ultimate Control course.
 
Yes, he's our little Aussie superstar :) I think his laid back attitude and humour has encouraged a lot of us to take up the brush and 'spread the love'

There are two mantra's that you need to remember around here.

- spread the love
-have fun !
 
Thanks. I hope to be half as good as some you guys one day. The way you guys can airbrush something that looks like it came from a camera is amazing. Practice, practice, practice. I guess if it were that easy everyone would be doing it. :)
 
you'll find this is a very newbie friendly place, if you have a question just ask. Help is never far away.
 
Welcome aboard Richard!! While it is true, Createx Wicked, and Auto Air can be a beetch till your used to a good setting for you. Make sure to add the reducer first, then paint, cap, and shake ;-). For tip dry, I have a baby tooth brush, works great for cleaning the needles. Next, Until you are "used" to rhe paint and your airbrush, OVER reduce your paint. For me, im never 50:50, unless i want to "blast" the paint color....like say a flat background if ya will. Another thing, I have a paache vision...bought it bran new...worked for, oh...maybe a week? That things a pike of poop. Hate it. Its tossed in a plastic bin, along with all of the needles i bought for the dumb thing lol. But...it works for some people...just not me. I use Badgers, and Iwatas. MUCH NICER!! Hope some of my insaine info helps!!
 
Thanks Michele. I bought a HP-CS tonight. The Talon works good as long as it's putting down some paint, but when you thin the paint and turn down the pressure for detail, it falls on its face. Im figuring out that above 5:1 reduction seems to be good. Up around 10:1 on paper and closer to 5:1 on hard surface. Hopefully the HP-CS will be more consistent than the Talon.
 
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