Wet sanding questions, when to sand, what not to sand?

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Wpgubaru

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Hey everyone, I want to do some projects and I want to know about doing a airbrush controller. Questions I have is I want to use the Createx Auto-air line. Now they got a crap load of different series paints. Now after I wash and scuff up the xbox controller do I prime or basecoat next? If I prime first do I wet sand that then basecoat or just prime then basecoat? Also do I wet sand the basecoat? Afterwards if I use any fancy auto-air paints like pearls, colorshifting or candy paints or even metallic paints do i wet sand those as well? Sorry for all the questions. Also can I use my 3m purple fine line tape to do some designs I wont have to worry it taking off the paint it's aheared to after I remove it as a mask?
 
I dont know if this is the right way but I would do it like this. 1. wet sand the controller. 2. put few coats of auto-air sealer white or sealer dark. 3. after sealer, if the surface feels ruff (like it usually does) sand it smooth carefully. after this point dont sand until you have clearcoat on. 4. make your design. using tape should be fine with any auto-air colours exept with metallics you should use transparet base in between before putting any tape or mask on them. 5. clearcoat and maybe a bit of polishing and your done.
 
Ok so if I use a metallic color then I need to put down a transparent base at anytime? Ok thats what I was thinking so only sand the primers/sealers and put down you design regardless of series minus metallics and then clearcoat then polish. What about the clear i should prolly lightly sand it first then polish?
 
For a plastic controller, my process would be, sanding the controller, using a plastic adhesion promoter followed by a primer. I usually use a white primer for light base coats and a gray primer for dark. Once the primer was dry, I would wet sand with 600, then if I sanded through any high spots on the controller, I would do another coat of primer and sand again. With a smooth primer coat, the base coat will go on like butter. I always do an intercoat clear over my base coat, so if I mess up on my graphics, I can remove them without worrying about having to base the whole thing again. When the painting is done, use whatever clear you like... I prefer lacquer, but to each his own, and then sand and buff.

That's my technique, but there's lots more ideas out there, so play around and you'll find what works for you.

Get some pics up as you work on it. Curious to see where your vision will take you.
 
Intercoat clear? And where do I find this adhesion promotor? My local auto body supply store? Also the lacquer clear coat it wont make the acrylic auto-air paint crack?

For a plastic controller, my process would be, sanding the controller, using a plastic adhesion promoter followed by a primer. I usually use a white primer for light base coats and a gray primer for dark. Once the primer was dry, I would wet sand with 600, then if I sanded through any high spots on the controller, I would do another coat of primer and sand again. With a smooth primer coat, the base coat will go on like butter. I always do an intercoat clear over my base coat, so if I mess up on my graphics, I can remove them without worrying about having to base the whole thing again. When the painting is done, use whatever clear you like... I prefer lacquer, but to each his own, and then sand and buff.

That's my technique, but there's lots more ideas out there, so play around and you'll find what works for you.

Get some pics up as you work on it. Curious to see where your vision will take you.
 
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Is the intercoat basically clear coat the base color then do design so if i screw up i can sand my design and not the basecoat with it? Do I just use any type of clear?
 
Intercoat clear? And where do I find this adhesion promotor? My local auto body supply store? Also the lacquer clear coat it wont make the acrylic auto-air paint crack?

Yeah, I get it from the auto parts store. Its just a clear spray that helps the primer or base coat stick to the plastic.

As for lacquer, I've used acrylic lacquer and nitrocellulose lacquer on AA paint and never had a problem. Auto air is designed to be used under the 2 part automotive urethane.... and that stuff is nasty! If it can hold up to that, it can hold up to just about any solvent you'd find in any clear coat.

Forgot to mention the use of wax and grease remover. I use that on every layer before I paint too. You don't want a greasy finger print ruining a great paint job... believe me, I've had it happen far to often. The lacquer wants to shrink as it dries, and if you've got paint sitting on a finger print, you won't see it until that lacquer starts to harden and shrink and by then, its to late. Just a good habit to get in to.

Intercoat clear, just means a clear coat that goes on between layers. I generally use acrylic lacquer, but HOK make an actual product called intercoat clear. You can just use trans base too, but its not as durable as, say a lacquer, so if you run into problems with the graphics, it might be a little more difficult to work around, but it will still add a little protection.
 
Ok good to know, I don't think i'll get too crazy so i'll use the intercoat clear for a much bigger project. I just hope the paint holds up to 3m trim tape. If you see my other post about project angry bird helmet my basecoat red pealed right off with the tape, I was sad. But learn as you go on right? Right lol. Ok, I think I got all the info I need I'm gonna give'r a shot this weekend!
 
Ok good to know, I don't think i'll get too crazy so i'll use the intercoat clear for a much bigger project. I just hope the paint holds up to 3m trim tape. If you see my other post about project angry bird helmet my basecoat red pealed right off with the tape, I was sad. But learn as you go on right? Right lol. Ok, I think I got all the info I need I'm gonna give'r a shot this weekend!

I saw that. I hate it when that happens. Intercoat clear can help with that too. I use it over every base coat on anything that I'll be clearing. You also want to make sure your piece is scuffed up enough to give the paint some bite. Even after wet sending, before I prime it, I'll sometimes scuff it again with a red scotch brite or some dry 800 grit sandpaper. That might help with the paint peeling too.
 
Yah, I'm gonna get some red scotch bright the body shop sells big sheets for 2 dollars and some cents. Good to know the intercoat can be just a regular acrylic clear or lacquer. Well I hope I get everything in one stop lol. Thanks again foreveryoung001 ill post pics too when i can.

I saw that. I hate it when that happens. Intercoat clear can help with that too. I use it over every base coat on anything that I'll be clearing. You also want to make sure your piece is scuffed up enough to give the paint some bite. Even after wet sending, before I prime it, I'll sometimes scuff it again with a red scotch brite or some dry 800 grit sandpaper. That might help with the paint peeling too.
 
Yah, I'm gonna get some red scotch bright the body shop sells big sheets for 2 dollars and some cents. Good to know the intercoat can be just a regular acrylic clear or lacquer. Well I hope I get everything in one stop lol. Thanks again foreveryoung001 ill post pics too when i can.


The only thing with the intercoat clear, just do a test panel with your intercoat and what you'll be using as your final clear to make sure there is compatibility issues. You can always use your final clear as an intercoat too.
 
Yah, I was gonna do that, not sure what else to use or my only option is that hok intercoat clear?
 
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