What am I doing wrong?

W

Wan2BCreative

Guest
I have been practicing my strokes, and having some fun with that. However, I am having some issues.

My lines are "spotty" and broken
I spray "spatter" instead of a fine, misty even coverage
I blast spidery splatters without warning (I do have a regulator with moister filter)

In the samples I am using my Badger 360 with Fine Tip assembly. Createx black reduced (commercial reducer) 1 to 1, and 2 to 1. Regulator is adjusted for 10 psi output. If I reduce any further my mixture becomes so liquid that I cannot produce any lines without spidery splattering everywhere.
Here are some samples taken with my phone. Sorry about the blurry pics.

IMG_0403.JPGIMG_0404.jpgIMG_0405.jpg

If someone has any advice for me I would really love to hear it. Although the broken lines lend to the design of this... thing I am playing with, I know there will be a time when I do want that control over my spray.
Any help is very much appreciated.
 
What surface are you painting on, as hard surfaces will cause spidering problems for a variety of reasons?
What is this commercial reducer, as water is generally all you should need for regular Createx?
 
Spotty = too thick/partial blockage in the nozzle
Spidering = too thin/too much psi

If you are having both, it is probably a partial clog.
 
At 10 psi, you also might need to reduce more than 1:1 or even 2:1. Try spraying some food coloring on some paper towel and see if you can get a good spray pattern. If you can, then you need to work on your reductions. If you're having the same problems, even with straight food coloring, then it would most likely be a dirty nozzle.
 
regular createx is made for t-shirts and such. so it is thick and not easy to spray at low pressure 10 is WAY low up your air to 35 thin 2 or 3 to 1 and try that after cleaning as mentioned above control is next and all I have to say on that is..... If it was easy it wouldnt be any fun LOL If you plan to get into the fine art side of things you should be looking at getting a different type of paint
PS you would have less problems starting out with a larger nozzle set up
 
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What surface are you painting on, as hard surfaces will cause spidering problems for a variety of reasons?
What is this commercial reducer, as water is generally all you should need for regular Createx?

Strathmore Drawing pad 70 lb, the reducer was part of the package when I purchased my airbrush set up from a private seller. It was in an unmarked plastic bottle. When I asked what it was he told me it was store bought reducer. Of course, at the time I had no idea what that meant.

Try spraying some food coloring on some paper towel and see if you can get a good spray pattern. If you can, then you need to work on your reductions. If you're having the same problems, even with straight food coloring, then it would most likely be a dirty nozzle.

Will definitely try that later today. Thank you for the suggestion.

regular createx is made for t-shirts and such. so it is thick and not easy to spray at low pressure 10 is WAY low up your air to 35 thin 2 or 3 to 1 and try that after cleaning as mentioned above control is next and all I have to say on that is..... If it was easy it wouldnt be any fun LOL If you plan to get into the fine art side of things you should be looking at getting a different type of paint
PS you would have less problems starting out with a larger nozzle set up

I agree that the thickness of Createx has been an issue. I would like to add this... When I purchased my Badger 360 from the private seller, (a local person I found on Craigslist) he let me play a little with his SOTAR 2020 and Krome. Both were fine point. He did use Createx black because it is inexpensive and he does a LOT of black work.
I was able to control my spray to get very even fine lines. He stated that these are "hair-lines" and that I was a "natural".
Could this have been a simple case of Beginner's Luck?

If so then I can accept that without any problems. I have been airbrushing (NOT consistently) for only a couple of months now. I am still very new to this and I do realize that my desired control will come only through a LOT of practice and determination. (I got the determination part...)

NOTE: Today I will attempt to soak ONLY the fine tip nozzle in Acetone, or Mineral Spirits if the Acetone does not work. I assume the nozzle will not be affected by the solvents(?) as it is made of metal. I figure if I can clean it very well AFTER soaking then that will remove any residue from those solvents...?
This is all guesswork on my part. If I am on my way to making a mistake then please let me know.

Thank you for all the input.
 
The 360 nozzle is a .5 , it will be fairly easy to clean, I use a interdental brush. And no the acetone will not harm it. With the Createx I usually reduce at least 4:1 with my patriot which has the same needle
/nozzle as the 360. I only reduce The Createx with water. Is it actual Createx or one of their brands like Wicked or Auto a Air. They also make Createx illustration. Just to be clear so we can help you.


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The 360 nozzle is a .5 , it will be fairly easy to clean, I use a interdental brush. And no the acetone will not harm it. With the Createx I usually reduce at least 4:1 with my patriot which has the same needle
/nozzle as the 360. I only reduce The Createx with water. Is it actual Createx or one of their brands like Wicked or Auto a Air. They also make Createx illustration. Just to be clear so we can help you.

I have the fine tip & needle set on my 360 which I now understand will require more reduction when using the standard Createx paints. I do have a few Wicked colors but I have not even opened them yet. Want to get in some practice time and improve my skills before I start using the more expensive stuff.
Actually soaking the fine tip right now for a thorough cleaning later. Will get to try the reduced standard Createx tomorrow. The results will be posted, even if they are terrible...

Thanks for ALL the great advice.
 
Turns out my problems may have been, in a small part, caused by a bent tip on my needle. I needed a 12X Loupe in order to (barely) see the very tip of my fine point ever so slightly bent, and a little "grooved" too. Guessing those "grooves" might be caused by normal wear?... Got two more needles on the way.
Good thing is, when I want to recreate that spotty texture I just need to switch needles!
 
Have a look at airbrush tutors tutorial page and he has one on how to clean the nozzle using your needle. I was about to buy a new nozzle and instead followed his method and my airbrush now works great. 10 psi also sounds really low. Maybe try 30 - 40psi until you get it working then dial it down?

I also found that if I wan't cleaning the tip quickly enough the tip-dry started to block the nozzle. To clear this I gave it a couple of full trigger blasts (after removing the tip dry). It does amaze me how often tip dry needs to be removed.
 
I don't think I can add anything to what has already been said but wanted to say it is very hard trying to learn in a situation where there is no one on one interaction but once you get through the more common issues you will start to really enjoy the art so keep plugging away and before you know it you will be turning out some cool pics.
 
One I forgot to add, look for bubbles in your paint cup. I now always paint with no cap on the paint cup and check every so often to see if there is any bubbles. Bubbles say you have a blockage somewhere.

And tip dry...real catch-22 here. I removed the tip cover as the pro guys do and therefore it would make me paint better..lol. nope, I just kept damaging the tip/needle. So I decided to keep the tip cover on and use q-tips with cleaner to clean the tip.
Reality...it is so much easier to remove the tip cover and every time you are about to run an important line, just look at the tip and then use your nails to clean it. Keeping that needle tip clean is #1 priority, especially if it is a line.

So then make sure you don't get to close to the surface and knock the tip.
 
ko and wmlepage have you on the right tracks, way to thick and way to little pressure, at 1:1 and through a fine setup you may even struggle to get a decent line at 25psi.... start at 4:1 and at least 25 psi and go from there..... etac efx which flows like a dream i reduce at 1:1 but still spray at 25
 
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