Wicked black blues

L

Leeman

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hi from lee to mi new airbrush bros n sisters ,

Hope your worlds a happy place....:loyal: I just gotta rant about wicked black , don't get it.... the other night I practiced over a drawing on glass and my paint 75/25 wicked black and 100 reducer flowed well ... few days later same paint mix , CLEAN ! krome ....NOTHING BUT MASSIVE TIP DRY ISSUES AND FINE LINES TURNED INTO DOTTED LINES THEN FLODDING AAARRRGGGG !!!!.... deep breath , I really need a consistent reliable mix is there magic formula to minimise tip dry and clogging ? some guy mentioned glycerol , don't know where ide get that or how much to use. I should be over this by now, I thought I got it with past successes but didn't seem to matter what I did , even tried wicked colours opaque black which seems bit thinner out of the bottle but same result. would I be better with transparent auto air black , I haven't seen wicked transparent black, being a newby sucks.... blessings people
 
Are you counting out your drops of paint and drops of reducer?
W100 has glycerin in it. The W500 is even better than the W100. But when you are learning and learning with a .2 nozzle you really need to count everything . The old eye ball method does not always work.
Also the hotter it is or dryer the air is on any given day will change how the paint flows.
It is all a learning curve mainly because what works here in Indiana where the humidity stay about 70% and temps during the summer run about 90 is a different reduction then right now in the winter where the shop is about 70 and humidity is about 30%.
But I have learned to mix the paint for the time of day I am painting.
Yes I know you want like we all want an end all mixture. but thing is there is not one.
Even urethane reacts different unless you have a climate controlled spray booth.
You may look into trying Com-art or Etac , Com-art you can run through your Krome straight out the bottle.
AutoAir is about the same as Wicked.
 
Thanks for replying Herb :) what I did was use a marked dropper and filled to the mark x3 w100 x1 wicked black into a plastic paint bottle for regular use, it seemed fine but tonight under what seemed like the same conditions it did nothing but fight me, it is wetter weather here tonight , dno if that's made a difference, I did try 3 drops 100, 1 paint, fresh into the bowl to check if the mix in the bottle was going off but same result, I should have put some transparent thru to see how that went but lost enthusiasm. I,m sure mitch mentioned using transparent black on the eye project and thought that might flow better ..... I'll get back in there for round 2 soon enough , it'll come... I wanted to use the wicked range because it seemed like a good all rounder and its available locally to me pretty cheap , I will get some 500 and try that, good idea it sounds like that'll help. I've been using the .3 needle by the way , anyway bedtime here ... thanks again till next time .....
 
Thanks for replying Herb :) what I did was use a marked dropper and filled to the mark x3 w100 x1 wicked black into a plastic paint bottle for regular use, it seemed fine but tonight under what seemed like the same conditions it did nothing but fight me, it is wetter weather here tonight , dno if that's made a difference, I did try 3 drops 100, 1 paint, fresh into the bowl to check if the mix in the bottle was going off but same result, I should have put some transparent thru to see how that went but lost enthusiasm. I,m sure mitch mentioned using transparent black on the eye project and thought that might flow better ..... I'll get back in there for round 2 soon enough , it'll come... I wanted to use the wicked range because it seemed like a good all rounder and its available locally to me pretty cheap , I will get some 500 and try that, good idea it sounds like that'll help. I've been using the .3 needle by the way , anyway bedtime here ... thanks again till next time .....

I always make my paint mix using drops, I find it easier to be accurate and consistent, and easier to adjust for weather/humidity conditions, as you get to know how many more or less drops you need. I love Wicked paints for the very reasons you said they are so versatile, I like to paint mostly bikes and it's lightfast so awesome for that, but also dabble in other areas when the mood takes me. As an all rounder though, it doesn't seem specifically tailored for a particular surface, so if you were going to mainly do fine art say, then maybe an illustration paint, Com art or E'tac might suit you. It took a bit of experimenting to get to grips with using Wicked but I don't even have to think about it now, and you will want to dial in your reducer ratios with whatever you buy to adjust to conditions. There is no magic formula, but you soon learn what works. Wicked does however benefit from filtering (a bit of pantyhose over the neck of the bottle is fine, just use a clean bit each time) particularly the detail (trans) colours, as they can have teeny specks of gloop sometimes.) it soon becomes a habit and isn't any hassle. I love the results I get from Wicked, the colours are vibrant and last, and look even better when cleared, and the detail paints when properly thinned can have a virtually candy effect, which I've done quite a few times. Definately use it with the W500 reducer (unless you want to do a lot of erasing, as one of the properties is that it dries quicker and with a tougher film, you can still erase but you need to do it sooner than later, and in that case use the W100), it helps with flow, and has other benefits too.

I hope you don't think I'm being rude, but even though I'm sure you were meticulous in cleaning the gun, those issues (apart from the tip dry) could be due to a dirty nozzle. You probably spent a while making sure it was spotless, and when you checked it looked clean as a whistle, but as most people will have experienced, nozzles are tricksy little buggers and hide paint behind some kind of invisible shield. When I think my gun is clean, and looks clean, then I clean it again. It's surprising what can escape the first go round now and then.
 
Did you strain your paint? I tend to strain all of my paint even E'tac and Com-Art. That could be causing the clogging/flooding issue.

P.S. I see where Squishy already addressed this issue above. I use the panty-hose method, too. I do that with just about all of my bottles and I have a size 100 strainer that I use prior to putting paint in a bottle.
 
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Hi squishy.... thanks for reply, sounds like you got wicked dialled in there , I reasoned earlier today that all I should have to do in theory is start at 1 to 1 and increase the reducer drop by drop till it flows, but the other night was a nightmare, every 30 seconds or so my krome , .3 needle , jammed up, not only with the bottle mix I made up but also straight into the bowl fresh 3 to 1 , I cleaned the needle and removed the tip and ran a very tightly wound to a point piece of w100 soaked kitchen roll carefully inside to clean it and carefully inspected the air holes in the nozzle all seemed spotless... it blew cleaner thru perfectly afterwards.. but I hear ya, I'll be more meticulous in future, maybe one of those sonic cleaners would be fool proof ? I will start filtering my paint too , good idea , gonna get the tights off mi girlfriend :) ... just had a shufty at your work on facebook , you do good work man ! love the death holding the tattoo gun and the vmax bio mech job... been looking at geigers work on google image... I got a couple of old lids from my bike courier past I will work on once I progress a bit. at the minute all I'm trying to do is improve my freehand skills, following drawn designs on glass as suggested by seamonkey , prob with that is I just scored an old picture and put the design I want to produce ( hanging eye from a socket tattoo ) under the glass but I had shadow issues with my lines casting shadows thru, so I blasted a load of opaque white on the glass inside and transfer the design on the glass front to follow, but one mistake and you have to wipe off and re draw , annoying !!! need to re think ... maybe I could backlight it... I'm gonna order some w500 later and see how I go with that. yelloskoot suggested a humidity reader to help things... not sure how ide use the info that would give ... anyhoo talk again soon squishy ......
 
Thanks for checking out my facebook page Leeman!! :) My starting mixture is 3 or 4 drops reducer to 1 paint if that helps, depending on what colour I am using. I use this as my base formula, at 20 psi. I adjust as needed from there depending on conditions, and maybe add another drop or two. And also adjust depending on the density or opacity of colour I want, or level of detail when I super reduce, and then also lower the psi (thinner the paint, the lower psi you need). Some guys reduce 10 or 15 to one and go as low as 5 psi, with basically tinted water. I don't like to paint like that, though you get amazing control. This is another reason the formula changes, because of peoples painting style, and what they prefer.

You're doing the right thing, reduce a drop at a time, until you find what works for you, just bear in mind that will become your own base to work from, and make adjustments as you go.

As far as the painting on glass goes, maybe some acetate sheets might work, (like you used to get for overhead projectors) as they are thinner you might not get the shadow thing, and if you can get the ones you can print on, you could trace an outline, scan it in, and print a few copies. If you get it right first time, then you can use the spares to re do in a couple of months time. This way you can check your progress, see where you've improved (which is always encouraging, because it's good to have that evidence when you start wondering if you are getting better), and identify any areas to work on if any. You can probably wipe them off and re use them too if you wanted. Just a thought.

Just another heads up with wicked, if it doesn't have a shaker in it, then add a marble or similar, and give it a good shake each time. Some of the colours can tend to settle, and become thicker towards the last third of the bottle if you don't, and need a lot more reducing and filtering. Good luck with it, and hope to see some of your work soon :)
 
Seenya ... greetings,

I am gonna start straining yes, the paint I mean lol.... cant wait to get all these stupid glitches sorted and finally produce something...
 
The acetate idea's inspiring .... I'll see if I can source some, I'll just put the design underneath and that should help things along , I did pull off one decent ish effort of the eyeball project but did the newbie classic mistake of darkening the lighter tones too much , thanks for the mix advice, I get what you mean about opacity and reducing, more reducer = more transparent, my starting base has been 3/1 yes but 10-15/1 !!! and 5 psi ... I did notice no shakers in the wicked bottles except white, that's got a bearing in there I think , I got some old bicycle bearings somewhere... tried to make a stirrer from a cheap electric eraser didn't work out because when I turned it on the wire i'de inserted in the spinny bit went wildly off centre , might try again seems a good idea. talk again soon m8ty ....
 

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Looks good, as you say a little dark in places, but you'll soon get the feel of it, that's where an over reduced mixture helps. You can't go too dark, and can build up to where you want to be, of course you need to know when to stop building up, which was my classic mistake starting out. :)
 
Thanks for the thumbs up , much appreciated :) yea over reduced paint cant go dark too quick , I've been trying to produce my lighter tones using distance but overspray gets everywhere so I'll try a new mix this time . I managed to get some acetate from staples store , 35p per a4 , just going to trace design onto one side now. Another thing I discovered was whilst cleaning the krome just now I back flushed and poured out the mess then sprayed thru and saw bubbles coming from the needle tip cover threads so I ptfe taped it , that's gotta help, and I got some tights and filtered my paint mix thru, seems to be flowing better for now , all helps . I'll post the new attempt at the eyeball if / when its any good ...........
 
Greetings Talla ..... good thinking on the bearings idea , took it for granted they would be stainless but ...... better find something else .......
 
Glass beads are the way forward ...cost pennies on ebay :kiwi-fruit:
 
Also Lee I think you mentioned Wicked and referred to not seeing transparents....the Wicked Detail line are all transparents. The regular wicked is opaques.
 
it sounds like I need some detail black on that advice , surely that's gonna flow with less hassle.... didn't realise they were transparent .... thanks shadow....
 
The detail paints are great, i love 'em, but they will definately benefit from filtering, they can get teeny gloopy bits sometimes.
 
Hey Squishy , not been on here in a while... nice to hear from you... previously I was having the worst tip dry issues but recently things have been better. I've been messing around with the eye tutorial Mitch put out there using a 30-1 mix....almost cleans as it sprays lol ... been practicing the figure 8 and the lateral textures , I guess you got to blend em out from darker areas , I want to learn more textures and Mitch tells me he is going to start selling some dvd's from around may time including one about textures :) got to start using colours too and stop being so lazy, get some work done ... I do now cover the paint bottle necks with tights material as a filter now as you suggested before that helps... wishing you all on the forum all the best ...........
 
Sounds like you found your sweet spot Leeman!!! There'll be no stopping you now! All that practice is going to stand you in good stead. I wish I'd done it when I first started learning, but I just jumped in with both feet and wasted a lot of time. When I finally thought to look online for help, I had to unlearn some bad habits, but you're doing it right!!!! Looking forward to seeing those texture filled works of art sometime soon!!!!
 
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