Wicked Detail.



Who else uses this paint.? What are your thoughts?

Maybe it's because I'm new to airbrushing. But I'm really not happy at all.

It sprays fine when over reduced. Really over reduced...
But I cant get any sort of decent solid coverage without it constantly blocking, spitting and flowing like glue.

Now I haven't used any other paints. But the fact that it works well when almost diluted to water, I can't imagine there being any other issue other than the paint being too thick. I've tried with all sorts of psi and reductions.
So It's fine if I'm blasting out large amounts of paint. But I can't get any details without having to make a stupid amount of passes.

I'm just venting because I ruined another piece due to terrible paint flow...
Wicked is a great paint But it is designed to build your color rather than blast it on.
It also helps when Venting to tell us a little about what airbrush and air pressure you are spraying it at.
But if you are looking for a more Beginner friendly paint I suggest Spectra-tex it shoots great straight out the bottle through my Iwata Eclipse cs .35 and my Micron with .18 set up in it. Has great coverage .

And detail should be made in a lot of passes, the more passes , erasing and building of layers you do the more detail you get.
Most time I over reduce the wicked 1 part paint to 50 parts reducer. and shoot at about 5 PSI. lots of passes to even see the color hit the board but that way I build the color slowly and get a better effect I am going for.
I use it and its all I've ever used but I use it how you suggest, if I want coverage I use it milk consistency and pressure around 25/30 our for detail I reduce it 1 in 10/15 part reducer and spray at around 8 psi....and as you say just build up the layers slowly.this is the key to getting softer more realistic paintings, plus it is easier to correct mistakes
yup agree with herb, I have reduced mine as far as 25 part reducer never 50 but wicked holds up really well with over reducing like this....if you want to blast it on a bit but still do light layers you can keep the milk consistency but get the light layers by adding transparent base,
Cheers guys.

The piece I'm working on is very Dark. Lots of solid black shadows and details. So I didn't reduce as much, but still having a hard time getting a solid black. I stripped the brush down again because it really was not working for me. I keep finding dry paint in the nozzle. Probably because I take too many breaks and am quite slow still.
It has cleared up a bit. I've been told that I shouldn't have to strip by brush down so often, but I keep having issues with dry paint clogging up the nozzle.

I'm using an iwata eclipse cs. PSI anywhere from 5-30 depending on what I'm doing.

I'll stick it out and see how it shapes up.
Thanks for hearing my rant haha..
When I started out , I was told to add no more then 3 drops of paint in the hopper , and than reduce it while in the hopper.
This would make it where about every 10 to 15 minutes I would run out of paint than I could run some airbrush cleaner or reducer in it do a couple of spray out to knock out all the paint. and take my break.

If you are taking a break with water base paint in the hopper that is not a wise thing. Due to waterbase paint drys faster and the warmer the area you are working in is the faster it will dry.
it is mainly know how long you can paint for and how much paint you need in your cup for that time period.You will figure that out ,
Thanks Micron.

I ended up taking the last piece in a slightly different direction than planned. I'll post it up when I finish, even though I'm not very happy about it.

I'll attempt another portrait next and do as you suggested. My only issue with having to make lots of passes on fine detail is that I'm not that steady handed so I struggle with getting those sharp/dark lines... because I often miss my mark!

I might experiment with making some moonshine reducer. Sounds like I'll be needing a lot more of it.
Can I reduce with a diluted reducer, or is that not advised?

Thanks again.
i had identical problems thats why i dont use it any more just stiking to com art and spectra til i can order a ful saet of etac fx ps i had the same isues over and over
Wicked detail works well, but does NEED to be strained, I find it can have gloopy bits in that will block the nozzle, but I have used it straight out of the bottle before after straining no problem, aithough it is more effective for building up detail when reduced. And it is a transluscent paint so the colour will build up the more passes you make. This is great for shade variations, and for allowing detail from layers beneath to show through. Maybe though if you are just going for more solid colouring in this particular piece, you might be better using an opaque colour.
I agree with the squish and i actualy do like wicked but i dont like repairing portraits beceas i get suden rushes of paint becaus there was a glob in my nozzle its funny i goofed up on kristin 2 last night now i am thinking of re doing the entire shadewd area on her face but that was my fault i should have left well enough alone since iv been using comm art and specrtra tex the problems i have had with wicked have gone the way of dino soars just me or cohienkiedink