wicked paints/reducer

M

mickd

Guest
hi all
still very new to the airbrush world,well I've been using the com art paints and so far all is good but i do find i get through the paint very quick so i am going to try the wicked primary set,should i order wicked reducer or is there a good home brew that one of you can give me,

thanks mick
 
If you are ordering the primary set? It comes with reducer. I used to use home brew, but with the 500? I dont even mess with it anymore
 
a local australian supplier also sell the new high performance reducer by wicked so was thinking of getting that[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, Trebuchet MS, Verdana, sans-serif]?[/FONT]
 
unless the set you are ordering is really old stock it will come with the 500 which is the so called high performance. I prefer the4011 but I have been using it a long time. most peeps like the new stuff.. anyway if you figure 1 drop reducer to 2 drops paint at a minimum ( I thin a lot more) except for fabric you can figure you will need extra
 
Many people use home brews, and there is probably a few threads about them if you do a search. Personally I use the brand reducer, as it has many other benefits, including quicker drying time, tougher finish, better flow etc, that may be helpful to you depending on what you paint - probably not so important for t-shirt work for example. Definitely buy the bigger sized bottle if you decide to get it, you will use at least twice as much, (some may use 10 times as much or more), and there's nothing worse than running out.
 
yer get the brand specific reducer, as a start you can prob reduce about 1 paint to 4 reducer.... start there and see how you get on, but wicked can be reduced far far more
 
I've been messing with AA/Wicked reducers since, well, lets just say it's been a while. Back in the day, almost everyone used Fantastik cleaner as a reducer because the reducers Createx made really, really sucked.

The W100 and new batches of 4011 work better (make sure the batch code begins with a "W". If it starts with "PH" or any other codes, it's old formula, and doesn't work for snot.) But, they tend to tip dry pretty quickly, the paint will "fish eye" if you lay it down too heavy, mixed colors will separate quickly, and it will dry the Wicked to a really, really tough base. The last one can be good and bad, depending on your use.

The W500 and new 4010 will reduce tip dry pretty well, and seem to be a bit more stable once mixed (less separation). The "fish eye" effect is reduced quite a bit. And, it has a sort of "delayed drying" that allows the paint to remain soft enough to use scratching and erasing techniques easily, as well as some rewetting, then "cures" to the usual, tougher "Wicked" base (either by air drying with time, or by heat treating).

So far, my favorite Createx reducer was the last formulation of the 4010 (before the W500 was introduced, and they just relabeled the new W500 as 4010). The 4010 formula currently in production, though, isn't the same stuff, and both are labeled with a "w" batch code, so it's hard to tell which is which.

None of them, or any of the home brews, with make this stuff paint like a uro. With a waterbased, acrylic paint, that just isn't possible without some huge tradeoffs. Right now I have a batch that I mixed of 50% W100 and 50% W500 with a good squeeze of E'Tac Condition-air thrown in. So far, it seems to be working well, but we'll see how it goes.

My best advise would be to use the W100 and W500 (or 4011 and 4010), and try out some of the homebrew formulas, and try to take note of what ingredients have what effects. That way, you can tailor the reducer to the job or to your preferences.

Definitely order a bunch, though. I'm an "under-reducer", and it still gets used pretty quickly. With Wicked, you CAN reduce it to some pretty ridiculous levels, but I've found that over-reducing can cause a lot of the problems you're trying to avoid by using reducer in the first place. So, I try to reduce as little as I can while still getting the paint to do what I want.

The most I typically reduce is probably about 50% (2 parts paint to 1 part reducer), and most painting is done closer to a 25% reduction (4:1). I rarely actually measure it out when using waterbased paints, but my usual starting point is to get the paint to about the consistency of 1% or 2% milk, then make adjustments from there. Hope that helps a little bit ;-)
 
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