Wicked question

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Barquester

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Today I tried to airbrush a name onto a friend's 4 wheeler's plastic fender with Wicked paint. The fender is a primary blue color that is fairly dark. I tried to paint letters in red that was reduced about 15% with reducer for flow. It turned out to be way too transparent and was purple more than red. I tried to underpaint the letters with white but it's just to difficult without a mask so I wiped it all off. Will the Detail paints cover a lot better as I have some on the way but really won't get here in time, or should I mask it. I was hoping for a loose look, but that isn't very easy with masks anyway, I suppose I should have started with the detail paints first, huh?
 
Hi Barquester, I have been having an education with Wicked, at the moment they are my primary medium. I have found that you can ab with very little reducer at higher pressure allowing a stronger coverage. Of course a practice piece would be wise first to allow you a little experimentation. Here in the UK now the temperature has dropped I have noticed a change in the reducing I need. Hope this helps. Iv
 
I've never used wicked, but assuming you seek full opacity with your red, a white base is needed, irrespective of what red you use it will never cover straight onto black, you would have to go ever it quite a few times but you end up with too high a build up.

This is for standard bright reds, for darker reds such as maroon a light grey is good.

Generally for for brute colours going from yellow through to red, the best base is always white at full opacity.
 
To get the red to cover, you will need a solid white base, wicked is a semi opaque, unless stated otherwise. Both wicked and wicked detail have an opaque white. Or. A better solution if you need to order opaque white, in this situation, is to get Auto Air or Autoborne sealer white. Then apply the red. And then at the vet least a coat of transparent base or spray can clear, if you will not be clearing with urethane for durability.
 
Agree with Wayne and Madbrush, Wicked Detail is the transparent line and will be even worse coverage. The detail line is to allow you ti build the depth of color gradually. I would try a whie base and add red or other compatible colors until you get the level of color you desire.
 
I was afraid all this was going to be true. Looks like I get to practice my skills with Frisket. I'll probably go with a chrome letter style as I really like those.
and BTW, my hat's off to anyone who can control a BC-CS up close without the preset rear handle.
Thanks everyone for your valuable time.
 
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If you layer the frisket, you might be able to cut and peel just the layer you need then apply it to the surface. You could also stick it to wax or parchment paper and use it like a backing, and do the same thing. Much less stressful than cutting on your surface
 
Um not to disagree but ya don't really need a white base for red, it can be used for sure but I don't think personally its the best or only option..A silver works really well as the red won't go too pink and it adds some oomph, myself I always use a light to mid-grey..This helps the red stay red with less build than what a white base will need..You can also add the grey directly to a transparent red and do it that way as then it will make that transparent red opaque, best of luck :)
 
To get the red to cover, you will need a solid white base, wicked is a semi opaque, unless stated otherwise. Both wicked and wicked detail have an opaque white. Or. A better solution if you need to order opaque white, in this situation, is to get Auto Air or Autoborne sealer white. Then apply the red. And then at the vet least a coat of transparent base or spray can clear, if you will not be clearing with urethane for durability.
Remember too that Autoborne sealers come in different colours and have a red sealer. I've never used them but I've read that they are for spray gun use, not airbrushing? You could then use Wicked red over the sealer.
 
You can reduce the Autoborne enough to get it to go through a larger brush. You're right though it's more for a 1.0 or larger. Nothing says you can't use a hairy brush to apply I side a cut mask though.
 
Great info about the Autoborne, Wow! they missed a great chance to call it Airborne. Anyway, I'll have to study up on their stuff and try it.
Rebelair, I watched a video on spraying a tank and he mentioned and used the silver for the same reason. I'm just getting started in this so my supplies are rather short. Thank God I do it for love, not money.
Wmlepage, funny you mentioned the double layers, as I was thinking about cutting wax paper into 1 inch strips, taping them to the table, and apply the frisket over the top, then I could squeegee it down 1 inch at a time. I'll try that tomorrow. No way I'm going to trust myself working without a net as unhandy as 4 wheeler fenders are. At the drafting table is a whole other ball of wax.
I remember my boss at a past Sign Painting company, ( the SOB who infected me with this disease) used a sticky transfer paper to move the Frisket to the substrate. I may have to find some.
I suppose One Shot would have covered this no problem. I need some more of that too, I suppose.
 
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If using waterbased, you could use contact paper, just cut on the front, carefully, and use some frisket as a transfer paper. I personally use a vinyl plotter for stuff like this. And auto mask/ transfer paper , from the sign supply shop works great for general masking, and you can draw right on it and cut with an xacto when you're ready.
 
I have a roll of 26 year old Frisket that has never been opened, and was retired to the back room when I had to go back to work, maybe I should auction it on Ebay.
Tomorrow I'll find out how good the stuff is, even though I have never personally used Frisket yet. It survived a tornado and an arsonist so I have high hopes for it. But I'm certain by old boss used another less sticky paper to move the Frisket to the work surface, usually a truck. I've looked him up and looks like he's still hasn't retired like me so I'll give him a call tomorrow to get the low down on the stuff and the name of the Sign Shop in OKC where he did business. I tried to look it up but I couldn't make heads or tails of it in the Yellow Pages.
If I recall correctly, One Shot has the highest pigment concentration of any paint anywhere.
 
Probably right on the 1Shot. Too bad PPG now owns them and it's going low VOC and will probably have a few growing pains to et it right.
 
You can reduce the Autoborne enough to get it to go through a larger brush. You're right though it's more for a 1.0 or larger. Nothing says you can't use a hairy brush to apply I side a cut mask though.
Thanks for the info Wayne. I wasn't sure if it could be reduced enough to go through an airbrush without changing it's properties too much. Largest tip size I have is a 0.4, so might be a good reason to get another airbrush, maybe a Colani?
 
Probably right on the 1Shot. Too bad PPG now owns them and it's going low VOC and will probably have a few growing pains to et it right.

I suppose that has to do with One Shot's long standing problem of taking forever to dry.
 
The first thing that I would worry about before I even start to worry if the red would cover, is will the paint stick to the fender. Are you painting straight onto the bare plastic?

Otherwise a bit of opaque white in the red will make it pink and that will give you a good base to paint over.
 
The first thing that I would worry about before I even start to worry if the red would cover, is will the paint stick to the fender. Are you painting straight onto the bare plastic?

Otherwise a bit of opaque white in the red will make it pink and that will give you a good base to paint over.

This is another problem I do need to address, so I'll ask it now: will wicked stick to Krylor Clear? And if not, what will it stick to that will go over a coat of Krylon? I know absolutely nothing about adhesion.
 
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