Wood pencil and clearcoat AND masking lines

[andy xxx]

Hi!

2 questions.

I'm painting on metal that's going to be clearcoated. If i use wood pencil to do some fine details, will there be any problems when clearcoating (automotive clear)

AND

how people deal with/avoid sharp edges that come when heavy masking/taping anf painting inside the lines. I can see and feel a bump in my artwork. Not nice.

Antti

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[andy xxx]

Forgot the pic that i'm working at

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[markjthomson]

Find out what your pencils are made of. If there is a wax content that may cause grief and bother. It may be possible to dust a really light coat of clear over them first. If the bump is already there you can't do an awful lot about it. Avoiding masking is a good approach but if it can't be avoided, there is a technique called speed masking. As soon as the paint is on and still soft, remove the layer of speed masking and allow the edge to heal and flow out a little. If it's already dry it's too late. You may be able to gently (and I mean REALLY gently) reduce the edge with some fine wet and dry - maybe 1200 or finer.

 

[andy xxx]

The problem with speed masking is that i use airbrush waterbased paints (wicked) that dry almost immediatly as they hit the surface.

Also layering for metal tears etc. cannot be made without heavy masking step by step.

Wet sanding will tear the paint off so maybe thats a "no no" also

Any other suqqestions?

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[twood]

You can use trans base over everything to help level everything out between where you masked and the other areas.
Cheers

 

[Squishy]

Pencils should be good, as Mark said as long as they are not waxy. Try a test on a similar surface first.

As for build up at the edge of masking, I find it helps to angle the gun so that you are not pointing towards the mask, but more towards the centre of your work. If you think of it like a snow drift, air will push paint up against the edge, angling away will cause it too meet the edge but not build up. There will possibly be a very slight raised edge as you are adding a layer of paint, but you can minimise it. Then when you add clear, and get to the flow coat stage it will level out and you won't be able to feel it. The best way is to avoid using masking as much as possible, but for those times you need it spraying away from, rather than towards the mask can help.

 

[markjthomson]

The problem with speed masking is that i use airbrush waterbased paints (wicked) that dry almost immediatly as they hit the surface.

Also layering for metal tears etc. cannot be made without heavy masking step by step.

Wet sanding will tear the paint off so maybe thats a "no no" also

Any other suqqestions?

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OK that changes things. Information like this is really useful for us to answer your questions at the start then we know what variables we are or aren't working with. What @Squishy said and minimize the paint buildup on the edge of your masking.

 

[andy xxx]

Hi! I changed my paints to solvent based. I've been thinking about it for a while and decided to go for it.

It fixed the masking problem, i can now sand a little more agressive and the paint lines are no more so "edgy" after clearcoat.

IMHO solvent is better when working on automotive stuff. At least compared to createx.

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[j-art]

You're talking about hard lines in your spraying. Do you mean that after spraying the clearcoat. That you feel your airbrush work through the clearcoat. If that's the case, you'll need multiple layers of clearcoat. Between the layers, lightly flatten the felt unevenness smoothly. Then put a new layer of clearcoat over it. This gives you a smooth look and is no longer felt by the surface.