Would I benefit of new airbrush?



I finally figured how to get file size smaller so I can upload a file..yay!
Ok, here comes the question..I use iwata revolution with 0.5 needle, would I benefit of upgrading the airbrush? Example is on 12x16 watercolor paper, with createx airbrush colors. Shame on me, I didn't use more than maybe 30-45min. including the color changes, no stencils.
So when you experienced airbrush artists look at this..would different airbrush make a difference? Honestly, I haven't had a chance to try anything better, just been reading about easier control, more detail and so on..I truly believe that regardless how good you might be, you can be only as good as your equipment allows you to. And I would rather do more free hand work than hundreds in stencils (I'm still horrible at cutting them and usually with regular brushes get more creative as I go)..opinions truly appreciated, don't mind my burning pony here


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Certainly, smaller nozzle will give you an opportunity to get more details more easily.
I would suggest to buy HP-SB+ that would be for detail and medium works and your HP-CR would be for backgrounds and other works where details are not expected.
Though, it's only my opinion about siphon system airbrush (HP-SB+ with side small cup), but there can be other preferences in detail airbrushes.
I'd also advise to buy CM-SB which is just great, but it depends on how much you intend to spend on new brush.
Hi Susi, it has got much more to do with the artist than the brush. Having said that, I also appreciate what good equipment can do particularly in terms of usability and function. The real answer is more of the control and details comes with practice, applying tools such as erasing and the use of shields and stencils. It also depends on what you want to paint. Have a look at Airbrushtutor videos on some of his portraits on youtube and his website. He looks at the use of shields, stencils, erasing, etc.
I used to belong to airbrush.org which looks as if it is gone, but there was a painting of a chimp on there that I have to say was incredible. Detail was intense so I searched out the artist work and all his stuff was amazingly detailed and what do you know he used a single action Paasche H. I could not believe it. My best suggestion would be work with it for a while on a large scale to learn and practice line and dagger plus start and stopping flow. When you feel you are getting where you want to be then think the brush. On the other hand a an Iwata HP-CS would give you a .35 needle nozzle plus a .5 conversion to plant with for finer detail with more precision. Also do as Mark said.

Paint on
Its true to a degree that the better the tool the easier it is to use, but the grass isn't always greener nor would a diff airbrush ensure success, but in the Airbrush world its more a case of genuine vs fake..If you'd used a rip of/copy airbrush I'd say go get a brand name..in your case I would suggest as others have maybe a smaller needle setup if more detail is your goal..) 0.5 is designed to be quite course and work at higher pressures, great for T-Shirt painting with courser paint types..So i'd say its not so much the wrong airbrush, its the wrong substrate for the airbrush and paint you have (Createx standard is a textile paint)..You have a general TShirt set up going..As Airbrush dreams states you can do some amazing work with whatever gun, even a rip off, or a straw if you want to blow some paint through one LOL..It does all come down to technique, skill, practice, application understanding, substrate etc etc. 30-45 minutes is prob rushig it a bit for a beginner, after 10 years or so of painting you may get something quite realistic in that time frame but I'd suggest slowing down and really concentrating on your strokes and layering sequences..Theres a heck of a lot of tutorials and vids out there that will help give you a good understanding how to approach it..But yer go a bit bigger with your work, learn those techniques and then try to refine them down to smaller sized works..Play around for awhile with what you have then consider a new gun..maybe a gun that has various needle options for fine, med and larger spray patterns..i would not though recommend beginners get a detail gun like a micron off the bat, learn a bit first and work out if its something you really want to learn and push yourself in before spending large amounts of coin expecting that to improve your work..What will improve your work is practice..Some of the best artists existed 30-40 years ago, painting amazing fantasy on the sides of vans and the like and the tech back then is not as it is now and they still managed amazing work..good luck in your venture and PS we all started much the same..Heres a vid you may like, might give an idea on some technique..PS Mostly done with a rip off airbrush and in about 2-3 hrs

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Thank you so much for all the advice guys! Loved the video too What I always wonder when watching airbrushed images with detail like fur (which of course to me is one of the most important factors), what size of a needle was used, maybe also what kind of an airbrush. Needle-nozzle size is something I haven't found an answer for..feeling a tad dumb here. My airbrush came with 0.5 needle and nozzle and for some reason the seller gave me on top 0.3 needle as well. I didn't think much of it, but surely the needle is too small for the nozzle..so I need a new nozzle

These were all done with an HP- BCS .5 mm needle. Paint was Createx and Aqua Flow paints Bill was Media Textile Paint. You can definitely do some decent art with a large needle.

Paint on
I think your paint choice may be holding you back a bit. It works obviously as you've been using it, but there is better out there, and getting to know your paint, working out the optimum reductions and pressures plays a big part.

As others have said a better brush wont immediately make it easier to AB, but it may make the journey easier. I had (and still have) an hp-cs as my only brush for around 2 1/2 years. I lusted after a micron but couldn't afford it. Looking back I'm glad, as I got to know that brush really well and got the best out of it, did the silly things on something cheaper to fix, did all my experimenting and refining techniques etc. Then when I stepped up to the micron, I had all that experience to apply and really felt I had gone to the next level. Because I had pushed the limits of my other brush, I think I was able to get more from the micron.

I can get pretty much the same fineness of line from both brushes, from experience rather than nozzle size, however IMO the micron can do it much smoother and with easier control. I use both brushes as the eclipse is an all rounder and use the micron for the very fine work. If you choose to upgrade you will be adding to the brush you have and will probably use both too. The upgrade will make fine work easier, but if you don't want to upgrade, you will get that level of work from your existing brush - you just need to refine what you are doing and really get familiar with a good paint system. Its all down to time spent on the brush :)
Oh wow
I did this on pencil and goal would be to get to close to that with AB freehand. Other one is the same image, I tried to make it a stencil, paper asa stencil didn't work too well . Good to have goals, right?
Another dumb question, do I need 0.3mm nozzle cap with nozzle?


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The one with the stencil..so much to learn :O


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The one with the stencil..so much to learn :O
Yes you would need the .3mm nozzle and cap to obtain the correct air flow ove the needle tip. Without it the needle will protrude to far out of the brush. I don't believe they make a conversion for the Revolution.

As for doing a stencil, it is fine for position of the marking however you need them very lightly misted the use dagger stroke to worker each layer of fur and the and then misting of umbers, Violets, yellow and oranges. I would practice dagger strokes and line work a lot. Search out a good step by step on these methods. I will look and see if I have any of my old step by steps articles I did for airbrush techniques magazine several years ago. If I find them I will try to get them to you.

I would avoid the water color paper. Get some fabric or canvas to practice on. Cotton is very forgiving and will help you learn better control unless you are looking to do Illustration type work then your talking a smaller detail airbrush and illustration board, Gessoed board or synthetic paper and illustration paint. Look up Jurek art and take a look at some of his step by steps for airbrushing the tiger on t-shirts. Everything depends on what style of airbrushing you want to go for. That way we can be more specific.

Paint on
Thank you, so waiting for to see some great step by steps, Jurek's art looked fantastic..all that detail!
I have quite a fee canvases I could practice on, I'll have to try, thanks for the tip.
Chosen style of airbrushing would be cars, bikes and so on when I've finally learned the skill..hopefully I'll pick it up quickly quickly, lol. Right now I mostly use Wicked paints on foamboard, which has been a good practice with reducer as well.
Thank you, so waiting for to see some great step by steps, Jurek's art looked fantastic..all that detail!
I have quite a fee canvases I could practice on, I'll have to try, thanks for the tip.
Chosen style of airbrushing would be cars, bikes and so on when I've finally learned the skill..hopefully I'll pick it up quickly quickly, lol. Right now I mostly use Wicked paints on foamboard, which has been a good practice with reducer as well.
For automotive I have found the HP-C and Micron C+ have been the go to brush. Those have a .3mm needle in the c and a .23 in the micron. Other brands like Badger and HS are just as good but look for around the same needle size and work with lower pressure. Practice on low to non absorbent surfaces like aluminum panels. I went to automotive shops that put in sun roofs and asked for the cut outs from the top of cars. And for paint I practiced with Wicked Color and Aqua Flow. Now I use E'Tac PS. If I had a ventilated clean area in the garage I would be using HOK.

Paint on
Thank you @Airbrush Dreams, I finally found the conversion kit..surely it's on the other side of states so we'll see when it arrives, lol Until then I'll try to practice with 0.5mm on a bit bigger scale..I hope the learning curve won't take too long..every day I try to get some paint on canvas or board and every day I get a little bit more comfortable with control. I've been thinking about trying wicked in aluminum..Ive had some offers for cars and bikes, but my AB isn't anywhere close to my drawing or painting and I surely am not ready to try on someone's Harley..yet. I'll practice with revolution till I get more comfortable and then start looking for new AB, probably Iwata, it looks like for now.
A lot of the illustration you see is done using other techniques than just the airbrush. I am loathe to use stencils... And often forget to use shields. I get away with it because I have a lot of practice. However not using shields limits you. Not using stencils limits you. Especially if you get into auto stuff and time becomes money.
All techniques are tools, and shying away from shields, scratching and erasing techniques did not make me a better painter. Sometimes a shield or a stencil will be the only way to get something like lettering crisp enough.

As for the airbrush making you better, no it won't. A.35 such as an iwata eclipse would be more suitable in a lot of cases. Honestly though I've done entire paintings with a 12 dollar harbour freight airbrush.

I say get something like an eclipse. But don't even think about a micron until you really understand your paints.
That's my opinion. I can say 90 percent of the time I don't even bother using my micron for detail. Its amazing when I do but it does not get used nearly as much as my eclipse hp cs