Yupo paper question?

RichardH

Detail Decepticon!
I have some Yupo paper that I have had for a good year and was wanting to try it. I would like to know which paint would work best with it. I have CI, Etac efx, golden, and Wicked paint. If my memory serves me well, I do remember trying golden high flow when I got it and when masking it pulled some paint off when removing the mask.
Just wondering who might be using Yupo and what you use and the process involved for a finished print.

Richard
 
I tried Yupo with etac and golden, I found it too easy to damage even just by touching it, if you really want to give it a try I would suggest only your CI or Wicked, the rest are too fragile, I would also forget about masking Yupo or the use of masking films, it's not a good substrate for masking with a high risk of paint lifting, I would even be wary of free hand shields if they happen to touch your work, I have heard that cleaning the Yupo with alcohol makes it more forgiving but I refuse to believe that, my honest advice would be to leave the Yupo alone unless you have a frustration fetish, I kept mine just for cutting stencils out of it.
 
I tried Yupo with etac and golden, I found it too easy to damage even just by touching it, if you really want to give it a try I would suggest only your CI or Wicked, the rest are too fragile, I would also forget about masking Yupo or the use of masking films, it's not a good substrate for masking with a high risk of paint lifting, I would even be wary of free hand shields if they happen to touch your work, I have heard that cleaning the Yupo with alcohol makes it more forgiving but I refuse to believe that, my honest advice would be to leave the Yupo alone unless you have a frustration fetish, I kept mine just for cutting stencils out of it.


Thanks Malky for the good info. Thinking back, I didn't like it for the pulling off of paint. Stencils it will be. I have thought about using a plastic white primer that I use for some model cars. After a day of curing, I have to scrape the primer to get it off if needed.
I remember last year you had left for a while to push pencils. How did that work out? You used to give me some very good advise back then and looks like your giving some very good advise again. Thanks

Richard
 
Thanks Malky for the good info. Thinking back, I didn't like it for the pulling off of paint. Stencils it will be. I have thought about using a plastic white primer that I use for some model cars. After a day of curing, I have to scrape the primer to get it off if needed.
I remember last year you had left for a while to push pencils. How did that work out? You used to give me some very good advise back then and looks like your giving some very good advise again. Thanks

Richard

Still pushing pencils :) but haven't done much with relocating back home to Scotland, but I'm settled now and started up again:)
 
Does heat setting the paint help at all? I've never done it, but wondering if it'd help Yupo. I first painted on it for PP13, and while I didn't love it, I can see the appeal.


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Does heat setting the paint help at all? I've never done it, but wondering if it'd help Yupo. I first painted on it for PP13, and while I didn't love it, I can see the appeal.


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I wouldn't try that you may warp the plastic paper. I would wipe down with a water based degreaser first or some isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil from skin and avoid finger prints. I tried it with my Blair paper and it improved the adhesive characteristics of the paint. Both CI and E'Tac functions better when doing this. I would say that CI is a lot stronger on Synthetic papers.


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Cool. I used CI for the first time on it--and I think I changed too many variables at once--having to get used to a different substrate and a new paint. I wasn't too happy with how it turned out.


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I have been working on Yupo quite a bit lately. When I first started using it, I thought I basically had to use the Createx Illustration colors. The paint is indeed fragile at first, but toughens up as it cures. I had then read about someone else using Golden on Yupo, so gave that a try, and it is actually working out quite well. I am actually surprised at how well the paint is bonding. Createx gives a better surface to use techniques like scratching, and erasing vs the Golden, but those are not techniques I planned on using in the projects I am currently working on.

If you are going to mask - you basically have one shot at it, and that is to do it first. I have had no trouble using a piece of Frisket to mask off the main subject, painting my background the way I wanted to and then removing the Frisket to work the main subject. I use paper masks, and hand held shields from that point on...
 
I have been working on Yupo quite a bit lately. When I first started using it, I thought I basically had to use the Createx Illustration colors. The paint is indeed fragile at first, but toughens up as it cures. I had then read about someone else using Golden on Yupo, so gave that a try, and it is actually working out quite well. I am actually surprised at how well the paint is bonding. Createx gives a better surface to use techniques like scratching, and erasing vs the Golden, but those are not techniques I planned on using in the projects I am currently working on.

If you are going to mask - you basically have one shot at it, and that is to do it first. I have had no trouble using a piece of Frisket to mask off the main subject, painting my background the way I wanted to and then removing the Frisket to work the main subject. I use paper masks, and hand held shields from that point on...


Thanks DaveG for the info. I know last year I was using Golden High Flow and it worked OK but as soon as I pulled some paint off after masking, I gave up on the paper. I like your way of masking first and then remove later. I'm too stubborn to not try the paper again. In the end Yupo might just be for mask making. We'll see!!!!!!
Richard
 
I've got a whole bunch of different masking materials to try on it. Everything from Tamiya tape to drafting tape to parafilm. Ugh. I have so many things to do today but now I want to go play in the lab.


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Do what I did and make life easy. I bought Illustration Board for my E'Tac and Synthetic for my CI. I have Gessoed boards for my Private Stock. I don't have any Wicked or Comart because the paint all clumped and separated from sitting for so many years. No amount of mixing could ever bring them back. Everything has their buddy and no struggle to make something work. Just saying.[emoji1]


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Thanks DaveG for the info. I know last year I was using Golden High Flow and it worked OK but as soon as I pulled some paint off after masking, I gave up on the paper. I like your way of masking first and then remove later. I'm too stubborn to not try the paper again. In the end Yupo might just be for mask making. We'll see!!!!!!
Richard

I thought bout it a bit - on this one, which is painted on Yupo, I laid a piece of Frisket over the entire sheet. Exposed the back ground, and painted it. Then removed the Frisket in about 8 different pieces, first exposing the leaves just behind the flower, and then each section of the flower. This one was done with Createx Illustration, but I am working on a much more intricate one now, using just paper masks and Golden Hi Flow on Yupo.

I will say that I did not like the Yupo at first, and stated after my first painting on it, that I tried it, and would probably not use it again. But, like many, I am too stubborn to give up that easy. I have since found that once I started to understand how to work on it, I actually quite like it...

14572288_1225478174161321_3384614736956987394_n.jpg
 
I thought bout it a bit - on this one, which is painted on Yupo, I laid a piece of Frisket over the entire sheet. Exposed the back ground, and painted it. Then removed the Frisket in about 8 different pieces, first exposing the leaves just behind the flower, and then each section of the flower. This one was done with Createx Illustration, but I am working on a much more intricate one now, using just paper masks and Golden Hi Flow on Yupo.

I will say that I did not like the Yupo at first, and stated after my first painting on it, that I tried it, and would probably not use it again. But, like many, I am too stubborn to give up that easy. I have since found that once I started to understand how to work on it, I actually quite like it...

14572288_1225478174161321_3384614736956987394_n.jpg
That came out nice. I actually have a sheet of the 144# Yupo to try coming up soon. I bought it to compare with Blair paper. The price difference was why I wanted a side by side comparison. I have used Yupo before and painted E'Tac EFX on it. I just had to be real gentle with it till the paint cured up.


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Well today I am going to give it a shot with CI and see what happens. I know that regular Bristol and other papers have one side smoother than the other side. I picked up on a drawing forum that if using pencils, draw on the back side or rougher side of the paper. I noticed rubbing yupo between my fingers that this is true for yupo. There is a smooth side and a not so smooth side. Which side to paint on??????
Richard
 
That came out nice. I actually have a sheet of the 144# Yupo to try coming up soon. I bought it to compare with Blair paper. The price difference was why I wanted a side by side comparison. I have used Yupo before and painted E'Tac EFX on it. I just had to be real gentle with it till the paint cured up.


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Thanks - I use the 144#. It was the first stuff I ordered, and I too purchased it in large sheets that I have been cutting up. Just figured it would remain more stable. With the Illustration colors, i thought it was going to remain very fragile. While I was working on the piece, I damaged a few small spots simply by brushing my finger tip across the surface. I found with tie, it toughens up, and with more time, becomes very strong. I found a scrap several weeks after painting on it, and found it difficult to scratch through the paint.
 
Well today I am going to give it a shot with CI and see what happens. I know that regular Bristol and other papers have one side smoother than the other side. I picked up on a drawing forum that if using pencils, draw on the back side or rougher side of the paper. I noticed rubbing yupo between my fingers that this is true for yupo. There is a smooth side and a not so smooth side. Which side to paint on??????
Richard


More tooth = more better for paint adhesion - but, be advised that if you plan on scratching and erasing, that these techniques are also more visible on the surface with more tooth...
 
Well today I am going to give it a shot with CI and see what happens. I know that regular Bristol and other papers have one side smoother than the other side. I picked up on a drawing forum that if using pencils, draw on the back side or rougher side of the paper. I noticed rubbing yupo between my fingers that this is true for yupo. There is a smooth side and a not so smooth side. Which side to paint on??????
Richard

Just be careful and expect problems to start with, don't go starting an important project or such until you know it's going to work for you.

Bear in mind also that most folks who have any success at all with it are already reasonably accomplished artists who have probably had a lot if experience with many other different substrates from very porous to relatively non porous so are better prepared to avoid dissapointment with Yupo.

From a personal point of view, and because I have very little patience I tend to look for substrates that require no preparation at all other than taping my border on, I like to grab something I can just start painting on and not have to worry if the paint will stay on, I like the ability to erase and scratch when the need arises without concern, the only substrate I have found so far that ticks all the boxes for me is Schoelershammer No.4 airbrush paper, it can be difficult to work on but I stuck with it because I know how it behaves.

I never ever use anything of an adhesive nature on the main areas of an artwork just because I refuse to take chances, if I spent 20 hours on a painting only to ruin it by pulling off masking films or tapes my temperament is such that I would very likely trash everything in close proximity, I enjoy painting and drawing and generally have fun doing both so I like to leave experimenting to others.

I forgot to mention above, I have tried erasing on cured (24 hours later) etac PS and managed to pull off a strip of paint 3 times wider than my eraser, surprises like that don't go down well at all with me:)
 
Malky, you must know my nature pretty well but we have never met. Being 72 years young, my patience is thinner than it used to be. I think I'll put the Yupo back in the drawer and wait until I have a lot more experience. I am pretty sure that is why I went on vacation from picture painting because I got disgusted with my painting. I'll stick to something I know I can work with and be satisfied with that. Check is in the mail for the very good advise.
Thanks
Richard
 
Thanks - I use the 144#. It was the first stuff I ordered, and I too purchased it in large sheets that I have been cutting up. Just figured it would remain more stable. With the Illustration colors, i thought it was going to remain very fragile. While I was working on the piece, I damaged a few small spots simply by brushing my finger tip across the surface. I found with tie, it toughens up, and with more time, becomes very strong. I found a scrap several weeks after painting on it, and found it difficult to scratch through the paint.
I have learned the art of patience with working on these synthetic papers and paints. Sometimes it is a good thing to let a layer sit for a day and then come back and erase. You will find it easier to get a soft erase and not peal all the way down to the surface. I noted as I watched a lot of updates on Dru's posts they would come back later to work on an area to start erasing or scratching. And suddenly it clicked in my mind that's how this paint is made to work. It's not about speed painting or shooting shirts in a mall. IT ILLUSTRATION work take the time and use the paint the way Dru and Createx developed it. You will be amazed what a difference it makes.


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I use golden all the time on it and it is fine. I started wiping the paper down with windex prior to painting on it and that improved the way it worked a whole lot. CI is fine as well. CI doesn't respond as well on yupo as it does on the blair paper but it is pretty good.
 
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