Delay when pulling back on trigger

T

Toot

Guest
Iwata HP-CS;

When I pull back on the trigger I don't get paint straight away, it also seems quite variable how far I have to pull back to get paint, but once it does start spraying there are no issues. But, I am never quite sure exactly at what point paint is going to come out. Any ideas besides checking that the needle is fully inserted?
 
Is it clean first and foremost? You can also try stretching your spring a touch to tighten up the reaction, over time the spring can wear as we consistently use it in a small range of movement, some even pull out a biro pen spring and use that or find a spring and adjust the spring pressure either up or down by spring type to suit their needs. Is the needle locking nut not slipping as that could also explain that kind of variation in it..Could also be your paint reduction or some gunk in there somewhere, could also be a few other things but likely something above.-best of luck.
 
EVERY time this happens to me, it's 1 of 2 things..

1. Paint has somehow went to crap on ya. Do not rule out chemical reactions from cleaning agents all the way to bad bottles of paint
2. REDUCTION.. this one 97 times outta 100.
 
Well questions questions we all have questions.
1. What airbrush are you using?
2What paint are you using?
3 Are you using the reducer that is recommended by the paint MFG?
4what air pressure setting are you using?
5 When was the last time you really cleaned the nozzle?

See when you ask what should be a simple question , You should include everything that is going on when it happens.

Lets say you take you car to the dealer due to when you put it in gear it makes a noise.
What would you tell the dealer to look for?
would you simply say it is making a noise or would you tell him when , where and how the noise sounds?
The more information you can provide when asking these questions the better the answer other wise you get a general answer of thing that it could be or that someone has had happen to cause the same type of issue.
 
Iwata HP-CS, Wicked Black, reduced; 6 parts Wicked reducer to 1 part paint, around 25psi. nozzle/needle as clean as I can get, have soaked it in spraygun cleaner and gently used the needle to do a final clean (as per Mitch's video).

As I say, once it sprays there is no issue with paint flow.

The spring is a good idea, I have this brush quite a while...
 
Try 10 to 1 and see if that helps any,If its clean then reduce the paint a little more or uping the pressure should do the trick, I have the same brush and sometimes reduce up to 20 to 1 depending on what needle/nozzle I have in it
 
Toot said:
Iwata HP-CS, Wicked Black, reduced; 6 parts Wicked reducer to 1 part paint, around 25psi. nozzle/needle as clean as I can get, have soaked it in spraygun cleaner and gently used the needle to do a final clean (as per Mitch's video).

As I say, once it sprays there is no issue with paint flow.

The spring is a good idea, I have this brush quite a while...
Click to expand...
For anything made by Createx I only recommend Restorer made by Createx.
Also did you put a bit of bees wax on the threads of the air cap?
 
basepaint said:
Try 10 to 1 and see if that helps any,If its clean then reduce the paint a little more or uping the pressure should do the trick, I have the same brush and sometimes reduce up to 20 to 1 depending on what needle/nozzle I have in it
Click to expand...

wow thats really reduced!!! maybe thats my major problem in this cold weather? I've been using same exact set up with exception of sometimes lower psi for detail but been more in the range of 5 to 1 max as I thought I was after the "milk" consistency. Any more than that and it's rather thin. I'll try reducing much further tomorrow when I give it a go and report back. Not as cold at the moment too. Also I'm using regular sketch book art paper.

edit: I chimed in because I have the same inconsistent problem as OP 'Toot'- excuse me.
 
JeyThomas said:
wow thats really reduced!!! maybe thats my major problem in this cold weather? I've been using same exact set up with exception of sometimes lower psi for detail but been more in the range of 5 to 1 max as I thought I was after the "milk" consistency. Any more than that and it's rather thin. I'll try reducing much further tomorrow when I give it a go and report back. Not as cold at the moment too. Also I'm using regular sketch book art paper.

edit: I chimed in because I have the same inconsistent problem as OP 'Toot'- excuse me.
Click to expand...

The more the merrier!
 
I have been pondering this for a few days and remembered a couple of things. (opps! I don't get to paint very often but I am now making time)

The nozzle I have in there currently is an old one. I once brought a new one and was using it and then got this spraygun cleaner fluid. I made the mistake of leaving the nozzle soaking in it and also left some in the airbrush. It peeled the chrome off the inside of the airbrush and eroded/pitted the edge of the nozzle.

When I put the nozzle back in the airbrush it wouldn't seal. I tried a bit of beeswax but it still wasn't happy so I replaced the nozzle with the old/original one. Fast forward 6 months and I have had the occasional play with the AB but it wasn't until recently that I started using it on a regular basis...and forgot I had done all this with the nozzle!

I do intend to carefully polish the outside of the new/damaged nozzle to try and make it smooth enough to make a seal against the AB. If it can't it can't...but worth a try as they are costly!

I also looked at the spring action. When I pull back on the trigger the needle moves, no delay there.

So currently I have the old/original nozzle soaking in restorer. If that doesn't work then I will give it a quick wash (not soak!) in the spraygun cleaner, that stuff is brutal.

So sounds like a cleaning issue and I will report back.
 
Well I went at it today for a bit and reduced paint more than I had been. Needed to turn down the psi and was getting good detail but a lot of tip dry. More so than I had envisioned and a bit annoying to be honest. My trigger also keeps getting stuck after I release the air (air stays on for 2-3 seconds after let off). I dropped some cleaner down in there and took it apart and was ok for 45 min and then sticky again....I need to soak the whole thing for a while I think? I also have leaks (seal up front is shot already) and cover with thread tape. Soon as I can figure this gun out I may actually be able to really enjoy it. when everything is working it is a really nice experience. I'm amazed by how much control there is and just as I start to get a rythem it goes to ****.
 
when you cleaned it did you clean the air valve where the trigger sits? sounds like you might have a gummed up air valve clean that well and take the back end of your needle and put a drop of lube on it and put it in the top of the air valve,then put the brush back together and give it a try
 
basepaint said:
when you cleaned it did you clean the air valve where the trigger sits? sounds like you might have a gummed up air valve clean that well and take the back end of your needle and put a drop of lube on it and put it in the top of the air valve,then put the brush back together and give it a try
Click to expand...

I have not soaked it yet but have tried to clean it. I think I was the back of the needle trick with lube that gummed me up in the first place? I did that when I first got it (only had it a month) and been battling this ever since. I dont think I over lubed and after I clean it seems to work for a bit but then gets stuck again. I am reluctant to put more lube down there....
 
There was some lube that became gummie,not sure what it was you might have gotten some of that batch ,try some light machine oil(sewing machine oil) as that won't gum up
 
I've used the lube from Badger "Regdab". It works great right after you put it on, but the next day... the trigger is sticky. I'd have to take it apart and clean it all with alcohol. So I quit using lube and just do it dry :laugh:.
 
Ya I wanna soak it then try dry. I was using superlube or whatever came with the hp-cs. It did feel sticky to the touch and not so slick. A buddy gave me some other stuff before I bought my ab and to the touch feels slicker. Whwn my auto restorer gets in I'll soak and go from there. Thank you
 
JeyThomas said:
Ya I wanna soak it then try dry. I was using superlube or whatever came with the hp-cs. It did feel sticky to the touch and not so slick. A buddy gave me some other stuff before I bought my ab and to the touch feels slicker. Whwn my auto restorer gets in I'll soak and go from there. Thank you
Click to expand...


Yeah don't go throwing that thing in restorer. Restorer and rubber DO NOT MIX. Also, any and I mean ANY restorer residue will turn your paint into sludge.
Are you using any bees wax?
 
Man, first I watch and read to lube stuff, soak and rinse with water, now dont lube and dont soak!
Can I use some alcohol to clean the air valve? The front seal up by the nozzle is shot after just a month. I been using thread tape to cover the seals. I feel like if I could get my gun to work right, painting would be so much easier and consistent. I don't have any one to get hands on experience with so all I can do is read and watch videos when time allows. Are spendier airbrushes less problematic and have better seals and parts?
 
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