Duracoat for Firearms

all good bro:tyrannosaurus: i figured you could figure out how to hijack a hijacking ya cheeky bastard lol
 
I am looking at doing the same thing and airbrushing guns. I am in Alaska and my husband is learning to become a gunsmith. My only concern with using anything other than Duracoat is how well it will stand up to the abuse a gun takes (tromping through the woods and so on). I have been having a heck of a time getting any real answer to this question. If you try it with your regular paints please update as to how it goes. Thanks.
 
I would love to see some pics of some airbrushed guns!!! I only have five but I would love to customize em. Especially my new AR.....ok a year old so not new but.........only 100 rounds into it.
 
Hey Edge, people are using DuraCoat and Cerakote, are the two main ones Ive heard of.

Alaska, I will keep you updated on this one as far as the wear and tear. All these will be clearcoated so with anything else we paint, our artwork is really only as good as the clearcoat we put on top of it, as far as outdoor artwork goes anyway.

Unfortunately the client and I had different ideas on the layout. A bit of miscommunicating, but he's a good friend so nothing major. It may change a bit but its put on hold until he figures out exactly what he wants on it. I will keep the thread updated once I get it rolling again.

Thanks everyone, even you hijackers, lol
 
I would love to see some pics of some airbrushed guns!!! I only have five but I would love to customize em. Especially my new AR.....ok a year old so not new but.........only 100 rounds into it.

I've done a few complete rifles (will post some pics in the next few days). If you're only painting the stock you can pretty much use whatever you like. With proper cleaning, prep and a good automotive style clear it should last many years. If you're painting the barrel and/or action (and the gun will be fired) you'll need to use Duracoat or Cerakote. I prefer Cerakote. Duracoat is a little easier on the pocket book, but it leaves a thicker finish and is not as durable in my opinion. I recommend the Cerakote H series for all metal parts (it's like a ceramic coating after baking... very durable). For scopes, synthetic or wood stocks use the C series (air dry).

A couple cautionary things... (1) Cerakote will not adhere to itself once cured! If masking is required, or you're going to airbrush multiple colors you can use a heat gun until it's dry to the touch. (2) Cerakote will ruin an airbrush! I use an old Badger I have for spraying Cerakote only. I wouldn't recommend using your good airbrush.
 
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Couple of pics... These were cheated a little. The barrels, stocks and bolts were all Cerakoted desert tan. I sprayed Krylon (through an airbrush) over the Cerakote for the camo (for cost reasons and to make it easier to change camo for different seasons). The first pic is my gun and the second pic is the bolt from my gun. These were done about two years ago and you can see how well the Cerakote has held up on the bolt. (FYI... my gun gets 60 to 100 rounds put through it every month)
 

I was talking designs, but now I see it's camo jobs.​


i know right, not was i was thinking either...but i like the camo it look's grate!!...anyone have ideas on what to use for primer and clear on a paintball gun??..it has some plastic parts that i'm not sure about??..thank's​





 
What I'm needing to figure out is how to be able to paint "realistic" looking flames on the barrel in cobalt blue and black undercoat. I emailed dura coat and they basically told me they didn't feel their duracoat would adhere to "airbrush paint". What I was wanting to use was dura coat black for the base, then HOK for the flames, then clear coat with duracoat's clear. I'm afraid that the colors offered by duracoat and ceracoat just aren't going to give me the look I'm after (like the candy blue). I'm kind of stuck now as to what to do.
 
You will most likely run into adhesion issues. Duracoat and HOK are two completely different systems and they are designed for different purposes. I have never tried to use these products together, so I can't say for sure that it won't work. I would shoot a test panel beforehand to be sure. If the weapon is only for show (ie, will never be fired) you can use HOK throughout.
 
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