What kind of cleaner to use for spectra-tex?


Double Actioner
I was using tube paint, and isopropyl alcohol worked great for cleaning the airbrush.. I switched to spectra-tex because I was having clumping and tip dry problems.. I should of filtered it but decided that actual airbrush paint should relieve some of my problems.. After using spectra-tex, I used isopropyl alcohol ( I usually use a lot when cleaning my airbrush) and I could see that the paint did not dissolve in it as good as the tube paint. I went and used my airbrush cleaner and it worked much better.. Anyone know of a cheaper cleaner that I could use and works good cleaning spectra-tex paint?
Windex and water works pretty good for me. Although I don't use Spectratex but Com art which is also an acrylic paint.
I just use a mix of IPA and water and use a soft paintbrush to move stubborn bits. I've also used car windscreen wash, which is pretty good. i use it on any water based paints. Works for me, hope this helps.

I did a glad test and clearly isopropyl alcohol does not correctly dilute it smoothly.. Blue windex & armor all clear glass cleaner dilutes it very smoothly. I am a little scared to use the blue because it does have ammonia-d and decided to use mostly clear window cleaner and a little blue and works like a charm. Now I don't have to worry about how much cleaner I am using because I can make a ton of it :)
I have followed a formula i found somewhere on the internet about mixing denaturated alcohol, distilled water, glass cleaner and glycerin. I was using this to thin my tube paints. Now i have createx and spectra tex paints, i will try plain water and see what it renders. The alcohol in the reducer makes the paint dry fast and this is good on some works but also does much more tip dry. I will try plain water and see how it affects the drying time.
I am also in a warm and humid environment and must try different formulas to get the best result.
Glass cleaner works superb for cleaning spectra-tex.. I have homemade reducer too.. I like to use the store bought reducer better.. Alcohol has some cons from what I hear..
ammonia based window cleaner will eat the chrome on you air brush. Automotive window cleaner has no ammonia for that reason. If you want a pic of how it eats the chrome in an Iwata bowl I would be more than happy to post a pic The home made reducer without the glycerin works for me denatured alcohol is the way to go and is inexpensive
I just use slightly hot water (Not too hot) with a little dishwashing liquid in there and just blow through and backflush the brush for basic end of session cleans. On a stripdown (Lucky if I do that once a month pending on the amount of painting I've done) I do the same, make the water a little hotter and soak for 15-20 minutes, again with a little detergent mixed in..Then I'll use a micro-brush or bottle cleaner to get into all the nooks and cranny's, the hot water really does most of the work, disolving any stubborn paint....Be wary about using some products and make sure its safe to use with rubber as you don't want to be soaking in anything that will potentially degrade or damage the o-rings..
An ammonia based cleaner is a satisfactory spray through cleaner. DO NOT soak your airbrush in an ammonia based cleaner or leve it sit in your color cup for a prolonged period as brass and ammonia do not get along well for prolonged periods - but to breakdown/rewet paint and shoot it out of the airbrush an ammonia based cleaner is good for spectratex.

Don't use alcohol - it does not thoroughly breakdown paint and if not completely cleared from the airbrush will create a "gummy" paint/alcohol matter that will eventually hang up the needle, making the airbrush "sluggish" in its needle movement.
The key to keeping the airbrush clean is to not let paint set up in it.....below is some cleaning guidance from a free handout we provide.

[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold]Cleaning –
[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold]Step one:
[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][/FONT][/FONT]The key to keeping an airbrush clean is to not let material set up (dry) in it. This can be done by simply
spraying the appropriate cleaning agent through the airbrush with reasonable frequency (when changing color and
when setting the airbrush to rest for any period of time). Three important things to remember: 1. Your cleaning agent
should be determined based on the material you are using, not the airbrush you are using 2. Material dries as fast in an
airbrush as it does on the surface it is being sprayed on to. 3. Anything you think will take 2 seconds will take 2
minutes, and anything you think will take 2 minutes will usually take at least 20 – so spray the cleaner.
[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold]Step two:
[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][/FONT][/FONT]Should material set up (dry) in the airbrush, it may be necessary to back flush the airbrush. This is done by
suffocating the air flow of the airbrush at the nozzle (while spraying cleaner) by carefully “pinching” a soft cloth over the
nozzle’s end. This deflects air back into the airbrush chamber - loosening dried material and sending it into the
cleaning bottle/color cup. If done correctly, the cleaner will bubble during back flushing. After back flushing,
dump/remove back flushed material from the airbrush – don’t spray it out of airbrush. Spray fresh cleaner through the
airbrush after you have back flushed it.
[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold]Step three:
[FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][FONT=ArialNarrow,Bold][/FONT][/FONT]On what should be rare occasions it may be necessary to disassemble some parts of the airbrush for more
thorough cleaning. This should only be necessary if the previous cleaning steps are not done regularly or are unsuccessful
in cleaning the airbrush. If disassembly is required, it should only be of parts that come in contact with the sprayed
material; from the material’s point of entry into the airbrush and forward. This includes are the nozzle assembly and the
needle. To thoroughly clean the nozzle assembly, use an ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner (yes, denture cleaner –
follow the directions on the package). The needle should be wiped down with a soft cloth saturated with the appropriate
cleaning agent. If residue on the needle is still apparent it may be removed by gently rubbing a fine steel wool over the
residual deposit area. While the needle and nozzle are removed from the airbrush it is OK to run a pipe cleaner saturated
with cleaning agent through the chamber of the airbrush, following the same path as sprayed material, and out the airbrush
front. For bottom feed airbrushes that is up the jar adaptor stem and out the front, for gravity feed airbrushes it is down the
color cup and out the front. Only do this when the needle and nozzle are removed - forcing anything through the nozzle will
damage it. A cleaner saturated cotton swab can also be used to clean the airbrush’s jar stem and the airbrush’s paint tip
housing. Be careful not to scratch or damage any seal requiring surfaces. After using the pipe cleaner/cotton swab, blow
out the airbrush to remove any “fuzz”. After all nozzle/needle cleaning steps are complete the airbrush can be reassembled
and will be ready for use. This disassembly process should be rarely necessary if steps one and two are followed, but it is
recommended if storing your airbrush for an extended period of time.