Atomization - True or false?

huskystafford

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I found this on internet. Cause I am noob and you all talk about atomization, I sad to my self, you ain't gonna eat me if I ask this question. I hope -.-
So is this true or false?

What is “Atomization”?
Atomization refers to how fine the particles being sprayed are being broken apart. On a garden hose, when there is a light mist of water sprayed, the nozzle is finely atomizing the water. Higher water pressure will allow for finer atomization. In an airbrush, instead of water pressure dictating the atomization, it is accomplished with air. Airbrush nozzle head assemblies have amazing baffling systems that funnel the air around the needle so that the air can atomize the paint evenly. This action gives the airbrush precision.

The better the atomization the smaller the drops of paint and the closer together they are. This provides a more solid coverage and finer lines. Atomization in airbrushes is the same as DPI (dots per inch) in computer printers. The more dots per inch the higher the resolution, which results in better output. In airbrushes the higher the atomization the crisper the image. Atomization will be rated on a 1-10 scale (1 being poor and 10 high) for a better idea of the spray quality of the brush.

Atomization is controlled by air pressure, air baffling and paint thickness
While there is nothing that one can do to alter the baffling of a given airbrush, the air pressure and paint thickness, or “viscosity”, can be adjusted to suit a particular need.

Air pressure is measured in pounds per square inch, commonly referred to as “P.S.I.”. As mentioned above, pressure influences atomization. In an airbrush equipped with a fine needle, less pressure is required to produce good atomization. This important aspect needs to be addressed before one can decide what the proper paint viscosity is. Not enough pressure results in a stipple paint effect, too much pressure causes “over spray”, a soft halo of color surrounding the area intended to be painted.

Paint Thickness Differences
The viscosity of the paint is also equally important. Viscosity is measured in Centipoise (cPs). 1 Centipoise is the resistance of water, hence water has a viscosity of 1cPs. Golden’s ready to spray Airbrush Colors have a viscosity range of 40-60 cPs, making them ideal for illustration and fine art. Most textile airbrush colors range from 100 to 400 cPs. A typical house paint is 3000 – 6000 cPs.

If the airbrush is set to an adequate pressure and spattering still occurs, the paint is too thick to be properly atomized. Sometimes raising the P.S.I. can eliminate the spattering, but the correct procedure is to thin the paint. Over thinning can also have adverse effects, therefore switching to a larger needle/nozzle airbrush is also an option the artist must consider.
 
That's pretty good and apart form the nonclemanture being dodgy (sorry, I'm a pedant about such things... it is PSI (no full stops) and cP) this is a well written description.
 
Here's an edited version for you @Jurien72 and anyone else who found that very word heavy.


What is “Atomization”?
Atomization refers to how fine the particles being sprayed are being broken apart.
The better the atomization the smaller the drops of paint and the closer together they are. This provides a more solid coverage and finer lines.
Atomization is controlled by air pressure (PSI), air brush construction and paint thickness
While there is nothing that one can do to alter the airbrush construction of a given airbrush, the PSI and paint thickness can be adjusted to suit a particular need.
Not enough pressure results in a stipple paint effect, too much pressure causes “over spray”, a soft halo of color surrounding the area intended to be painted.
If the airbrush is set to an adequate pressure and spattering still occurs, the paint is too thick to be properly atomized. Sometimes raising the PSI can eliminate the spattering, but the correct procedure is to thin the paint. Over thinning can also have adverse effects, therefore switching to a larger needle/nozzle airbrush is also an option the artist must consider.
 
"This provides a more solid coverage and finer lines."

Finer lines is more about how that column of paint/air mix is controlled.
case in point .5 spray gun has better atomization than an airbrush anyday but cant make as fine of lines.

Otherwise yep
 
"This provides a more solid coverage and finer lines."

Finer lines is more about how that column of paint/air mix is controlled.
case in point .5 spray gun has better atomization than an airbrush anyday but cant make as fine of lines.

Otherwise yep
Yes and no, the column of paint / air mix is affected by the atomization. There are limitation to fine lines and you have to compare apples to apples - you can't compare a 0.5mm needle to a 0.38 needle... so for a given needle, the better the atomization the finer the line can be drawn.
 
So my .5 gun can do a finer line than a .5 airbrush?

I'm just saying better atomization isn't directly equivalent to finer lines the way it sounded there.

HP TH versus eclipse .5
Which has better atomization?
Which does a finer line?
 
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Even if they often go together.
I could atomize something to nearly a vapor, without cleanly directing and controlling it to a very narrow stream I won't be able to make a nice line.

I bring this up only because I've seen a whole lot people talk about a brush and say the atomization is very good, and talk about the fine line capability in a different light.

If I read that line from the excerpt then read a number of reviews I would be confused.
 
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So my .5 gun can do a finer line than a .5 airbrush?

I'm just saying better atomization isn't directly equivalent to finer lines the way it sounded there.

HP TH versus eclipse .5
Which has better atomization?
Which does a finer line?

So to be very clear, are you talking the same measurements... are both 0.5mm? And yes I agree with "I'm just saying better atomization isn't directly equivalent to finer lines the way it sounded there"
 
OK so hang on, now I'm curious, what spray gun are you using with a 0.5 needle...?
Lph-50 knockoff. Which can lay on paint like glass due to excellent atomization, but cant get thinner than about a 3mm line

But I think you could probably just as easily compare the hp-th to the eclipse .5
I'm betting you can do better lines with the eclipse yet softer blends (atomization) with the TH
Both .5's


or for example my pz360 .2 can atomize extremely well and blend like crazy (owing to its micron copy design), but it's fine line detail isnt great, due to the poor construction.

Where the .2 ps270 can make teeny weeny clean lines but the atomization is no better
 
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OK you're possibly right but to get a proper comparison you should compare the LPH-50 to the larger Iwata (like you mentioned above) or something with a similar air cap rather than the eclipse...
 
OK you're possibly right but to get a proper comparison you should compare the LPH-50 to the larger Iwata (like you mentioned above) or something with a similar air cap rather than the eclipse...
Those are just extremes, just for the sake of showing that If you read and someone says "this brush atomizes extremely well" doesn't necessarily mean it does tiny lines extremely well.

Though I do agree with what I think you're saying. IE; If something atomizes poorly it's gonna do fine lines poorly as well. So good atomization HAS to be there in the first place before to get the fine lines
 
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Also that generally if .2 brush and a .2 brush are compared, the better atomizing one will also be better at fine lines.

But I think there are some exceptions;
Like my pz360 which atomizes better than the krome did, but it cant pull off as nice and clean of a fine line.

Not meaning to contradict you, just trying to illustrate the part of that article that would have confused me if I read it. Sorry
 
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