Krome Problems...

F

foreveryoung001

Guest
I've been having some problems with my Badger Krome lately and have been nursing it along until I have the funds to pick up another airbrush or to, so I can send this one in to Badger for a tune up, but I may be able to fix this myself, but thought I would throw my thoughts down here, and see if anyone had any tips for me.

About a month ago, it developed a leak whenever I pushed down on the trigger. Its not constant though. When I push down on the trigger, I can hear that air is coming out from somewhere around the trigger. It comes and goes a little as I pull the trigger back, so my first thought was to tighten the needle bearing. I gave it the slightest of turns, and thought that should solve everything.

The leak persisted though. SO over the next few days, I just kept making it slightly tighter, every time I started a painting session. Now, I've got it so tight, the needle is getting difficult to get back in, so actually backed it off a fraction and figure this is as tight as I can make it and still have the needle move, but the leak is still persistent.

Next step, I dunked the whole thing in a bucket of water to see if there real was a leak, or if it was just my imagination. Air is pouring out from somewhere around the trigger.... so I'm not crazy. The leak is so bad that the bubbles actually block my view, and I can't see where it is leaking from.

So, next step, I pulled air valve out, cleaned it all up, not that it was dirty, but still... when I put that back in, I used a tiny strip of teflon tape on the threads that go into the body of the brush, and for a heartbeat, I thought that solved things, but after about 10 minutes of use, the leak was back, just as bad as before.

The fact that it went away for a few minutes, I think tells me the problem is in the air valve and not the needle bearing, like I originally thought. So will probably just order a whole new air valve from coast and see if that works.

New problem though.... last night, it just felt like the leak was getting really bad again, and I was just getting some really odd atomization of the paint. I'm used to the Krome giving me some really good spray patterns, but last night it was horrible. I'm thinking this might be because I haven't given the brush a good cleaning in a while, but am starting to wonder if that leak might be causing problems by messing with the pressure that is actually atomizing the paint.

Going to try cleaning it tonight, before I start painting, but its just getting frustrating nursing this thing along. So, just looking for any thoughts on anything I might not have tried yet. I probably need it last me another 2 to 3 weeks before I can place my next airbrush order and send this one to Ken for his magic touch.
 
Sounds like the o ring in the air valve is bad.


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Apply some soapy water or Windex to the area where the air valve is soldered to the airbrush body and see if that's where the leak is. If so, you may have a bad solder joint there, causing air to leak. I had this situation and had to send the Krome back to Badger and they replaced the airbrush.
 
Apply some soapy water or Windex to the area where the air valve is soldered to the airbrush body and see if that's where the leak is. If so, you may have a bad solder joint there, causing air to leak. I had this situation and had to send the Krome back to Badger and they replaced the airbrush.

Great idea! There are actually two leaks. One is where the air valve screws in to the body, not where its soldered, the other is from the top of the air valve inside the brush. I'll drop Ken an email and see what he thinks needs replacing and go from there.
 
This is what a Badger looks like inside. It is common to have a leak just where the valve screws into the body. The other one I don't know why.

inside_a_badger.jpg
 
That's a great picture, Andre. One thing to point out; notice the Badger has no O-ring seal at the top of the air valve, unlike Iwatas and some other brands. The only thing that prevents an air leak around the trigger pin is a metal to metal clearance. So, you will always get a few bubbles here. As the pin wears, it will leak more and the only fix is to replace the valve assembly. The up side is that you will seldom have a sticky trigger with a Badger because there is no O-ring to bind.

Don
 
That's a great picture, Andre. One thing to point out; notice the Badger has no O-ring seal at the top of the air valve, unlike Iwatas and some other brands. The only thing that prevents an air leak around the trigger pin is a metal to metal clearance. So, you will always get a few bubbles here. As the pin wears, it will leak more and the only fix is to replace the valve assembly. The up side is that you will seldom have a sticky trigger with a Badger because there is no O-ring to bind.

Don

Thanks for the info. I dropped Ken an email but an automated response said he was swamped and it would be a while before he could return my message. Since the air valve assembly is rather inexpensive through Coast, I'm thinking I'll just order one up and see that doesn't solve the issue. It has been my airbrush for almost 100% of my projects for the last year, so a little wear in the valve could, very well, be the issue. Thanks for all the input, everyone. If that doesn't fix it up, I'll figure out plan B.
 
Thanks for the info. I dropped Ken an email but an automated response said he was swamped and it would be a while before he could return my message. Since the air valve assembly is rather inexpensive through Coast, I'm thinking I'll just order one up and see that doesn't solve the issue. It has been my airbrush for almost 100% of my projects for the last year, so a little wear in the valve could, very well, be the issue. Thanks for all the input, everyone. If that doesn't fix it up, I'll figure out plan B.
I sent him an email and got the same message, but he responded quite quickly.
 
If you put a little lube on the pin of the new valve, it might last longer. I like Chapstick. It seems harmless, it's not messy, and it even smells good. It might even reduce the leakage on your old valve.

Don
 
If you put a little lube on the pin of the new valve, it might last longer. I like Chapstick. It seems harmless, it's not messy, and it even smells good. It might even reduce the leakage on your old valve.

Don

Cool. I'll give that a try to keep the old one going until the new one arrives.
 
If you put a little lube on the pin of the new valve, it might last longer. I like Chapstick. It seems harmless, it's not messy, and it even smells good. It might even reduce the leakage on your old valve.

Don

Don, that little trick really helped. It didn't stop the leak, but made it much more manageable for the next couple of days. I also found the culprit of the poor spray pattern. When its time for a good cleaning, I use an ultra sonic cleaner, but I guess it wasn't doing its job, cuz there was dried paint in the spray regulator. I'm meticulous with the nozzles, but always kind of speed over the regulator. I went in there with a whittled down tooth pick and was amazed at the crud that had gotten in there. Anyways, last night, with an air valve that wasn't acting to bad, and a super clean airbrush, it was behaving itself, and let me settle down to enjoy some airbrushing again. Thanks again for the great tip!
 
Glad it helped. That's interesting about the spray regulator. I always figured that since it just blows air, paint wouldn't get in it. Thanks for the info.

Don
 
I am having an issue with a badger Krome as well that you all might be able to provide some insight on. Attaching to this thread because the title works so well. Please let me know if I have placed this in error. Keep in mind, I am brand new to airbrushing and I got a used Krome as my starter brush. After using my AB for a while the needle stops "reseating" fully when the trigger is released and a little but of paint continues to spray out when the air is down. I notice that when I attempt to pull the needle out and try to clear it the needle is super tight. when I attempt to put it back in, I notice that it gets really hard to push past what looks like that teflon needle bearing in the picture. After a good soak in cleaner for a few minutes I can push it back through. Should there be a enough paint getting inside that bearing that I would need to flush it every 10 minutes or so? That seems a bit excessive, and I cannot tell if it is something I am doing, or maybe I need to let badger replace that bearing. I only have wicked colors, and the high performance reducer. I run about 2 parts reducer to one part paint. Any advice is appreciated. thanks!
 
You just need to undo the teflon seal inside. Take all the insides out and stick a small flat screwdriver in the back. Turn it until you feel it bites anf then jist give a light nudge anti-clockwise. Small turns at a time and putting the needle back and testing after each time. It must just give a tiniest bit of resistance.
 
VikingNerd -- The Krome needle seal is adjustable. There is a photo of it on this page. You should feel just a light drag if it is set right. On mine, this is when it is barely tightened. It is a very sensitive adjustment. If it has been damaged by dragging dried paint through it, paint might build up in it.

Don
 
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