It's definitely handy to have the information handy for what airbrushes would fit what you're looking for, along with what features which ones have. But (and there's always that "but") it's important to remember that the "winner" on paper might not actually be the best airbrush, or the best airbrush for you. Just as an example, look at two airbrushes that, on paper, are very similar, the Olympos HP100B, and the "Master" G26. Both share a similar general design. Both have small, "B" sized color cups. Both have .2 nozzles. The G26 even has a few features the Olympos doesn't, like a needle backstop, and a cut-a-way handle. It also costs WAY less, and parts are easily available through TCP Global. With the Olympos, on the other hand, you HAVE to order one from either Europe or Japan, and the only way to get genuine parts is to order them from overseas, as well. And the parts, and shipping, are far from cheap. On paper, the Master seems like a smarter buy. But, Olympos is legendary for their extremely high quality, and the HP100-B is one of the airbrushes that got them that reputation. They make the Iwata HP-B seem like a "Chevy" to the Olympos "Cadillac". Olympos spares no expense on materials or machining, so every needle and nozzle are impeccable, AND last a long, long time. They are really some amazing airbrushes. The owner is himself an airbrush artist, and has insisted from day 1 on making the best, no-compromises airbrushes. Long point made short, some things aren't quite so easily quantified. I certainly don't mean to belittle your effort by any stretch. You're obviously putting thought into your equipment, which is definitely a good thing. And that you're willing to put in some extra effort will pay big dividends in your artwork. I just wanted to add another perspective for your consideration. I'm not saying "go buy an Olympos" (although I certainly wouldn't discourage it), just that there are more ways than one to evaluate an airbrush ;-)