Clear coat, rattle can?
- Thread starter Matwes
- Start date
I
Immortal Concepts
Guest
You can, just have to do a couple of mist coats first to lock the waterbased in so it doesn't bleed out and react. Couple tack dry coats then a medium coat then go wet. Test it first one something else though as this works with 2k clear so should with a can.
MeeshellMP
Goddess Queen of carts
Yep, I use it often for the "in house "projects.
RebelAir
Air-Valve Autobot!
As above, no probs in most cases but depends if its a true water based paint. Most major brands these days have some minor types of solvent anyways and are designed to actually work well with 2k, and are more waterbourne than waterbased, if using a true water based paint with lighter coats I'll use acrylic clear instead as I do find for lighter spray area's with little or just overspray suggesting something that the 2k will often eat it up. The thicker base no probs but it can be a bit harsh for lighter, pure waterbased or untreated with heat paint..As Immortal says though, a cple misting coats can help if unsure and always test your paint types if unsure, you may not always see an effect on a small area, but replicate it on a large panel with much more clear being shot on can cause different issues so test it properly with similar sizes being involved, if the 2k eats up your lighter coats, don't spray it on your real project LOL..Good luck..
J
jacksparrow
Guest
Spraymax do a very good 2k clear in a rattle can!!
twood
Air-Valve Autobot!
Thanks a lot, you guy are good!
Not sure what 2K is..
2k is a two part mix. You would press a button on the bottom of the can to mix and activate the clear. The only drawback with a 2k rattle can, is once activated, you cant use it the next day....you need to use it as a one shot deal. Can get very expensive for the smaller things....
The best clear I have found in my area is U-Pol #1 gloss. Its a 1k which means no activation, just shake and go....At $25 a can, its expensive, but you dont need to use it all at once. I dont know if you can get it on the other side of the pond.
I
Immortal Concepts
Guest
Spray max 2k can clear is cheaper and once activated it has a 24 hr window before it's bad. 1 can will clear around 5 helmets so it does go a good ways. Best to plan on clearing multiple things at once to eliminate waste. Also a little more then pressing a button 
, you have to slam it on a table to break the internal can. Good stress releiver. It's not a bad clear just not quiet as glossy as a unmixed 2k clear. 2k is fancy wording for a 2 part system. Meaning it needs a hardner and or activator to make the chemical reaction occur.
, you have to slam it on a table to break the internal can. Good stress releiver. It's not a bad clear just not quiet as glossy as a unmixed 2k clear. 2k is fancy wording for a 2 part system. Meaning it needs a hardner and or activator to make the chemical reaction occur.
F
ferret
Guest
The main thing with using water based or waterborne is to make sure that the paint is properly dry before you clear coat ,this alone will avoid most problems . Personally i would get a small 2k clear kit which you can get for the same price as the cans as you can make up what you need when you need it . For small projects i have an old airbrush i use to spray it on with .
I
Immortal Concepts
Guest
That's what she said... sorry I just woke up I had to. I refuse to grow up
. I don't like rustoleum products as a whole. Krylon is starting to lose quality as well. It's hard to control how long the stock sits on the shelf. I used to work at auto zone and I did inventory and some of those paints sit there for years before they are purchased. They tend to stock them from the front and not the back so it's never rotated and becomes old stock.
F
ferret
Guest
Thanks a lot for all the answers guys, I love this forum... You rock!
I'm going to paint my RC helicopter and a couple of motorcycle helmets, small items but to big to clear coat with an airbrush I presume.
You will be surprised what you can clear with an AB ,or pick up a mini gun from ebay for $10 -20 ideal for clear and will run on an ab compressor ,but more importantly it will depend on the speed of hardener you use and the type of finish you require and the temperature of your working environment . Remember weather its cans or self mix ventilation and a mask are essential .Thanks a lot for all the answers guys, I love this forum... You rock!
I'm going to paint my RC helicopter and a couple of motorcycle helmets, small items but to big to clear coat with an airbrush I presume.
Matwes
The Analog Kid
Just tried to clear cote some lettering I airbrushed on a piece of bicycle steel tube. Regular rattle can clear cote from the local car supplies shop.
Excellent result, very shiny and smooth and no reaction with the water based airbrush colors.
Thanks all, now I'm ready to do my first payed airbrush job!
Excellent result, very shiny and smooth and no reaction with the water based airbrush colors.
Thanks all, now I'm ready to do my first payed airbrush job!
splasha
Detail Decepticon!
I'd suggest a quick going over with a heat gun [sort of like an industrial hair dryer] to set your paint.
Then I'd go find a cheap? HVLP set-up, small size [about 300 to 600 ml] and use that for your clearing works.
Being bigger than your airbrush, it's also a crap-load easier to clean out afterwards, and also runs on your AB compressor.
I
Immortal Concepts
Guest
Well I use a layer of intercoat clear before using any tape to prevent this, but sometimes water will work once your paint is well set. Most but not all tape tracks will dissappear when cleared. Depends on what type of adhesive they use and what is solvent to it.
I
Immortal Concepts
Guest
1.3 to 1.7 needle is optimum for shooting clear. Anything smaller and atomization doesn't work right and filters out the solvents/hardners and won't set right. I have used a touch up gun for door jams and whatnot. I have some high dollar hvlp touch up guns and they won't run on a small 10 gallon compressor. All about cmf.
F
ferret
Guest
I have never had issues using my sata mimi jet 4s with clear through 0.8 on my small compressors in the van , however that is in short burst say for a helmet or small bumper repairs and the like . I do agree the ideal is 1.3 which is what i use in my turbine gun which gives a flawless results . Bergen do sell a cheap mini gun which 2 cfm will run it fine and the iwata 90 is superb but very expensive . You could get a vega with a larger tip nozzle to use on a small compressor with out issues . The type of clear you use will also have a big impact on what you want to do and using UHS in an airbrush will not work unless you thin it well over what the recommendations are .The type of hardener will also effect this as will the temperature in the spraying area and the temperature of the item you are clear coating .
