createx wicked , auto air and new reducer

K

krustus

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the createx paints can do anything i want... but not as easily as the urethane paint i was used to. i didn't even think i may to to shake or stir intermittently to keep the paint and reducer from separating (especially the white)... the candy paints are not as good as urethanes but do work quiet well. but as of right now i think it may be work the trade off in the smelly fume department.

so keep it mixed in the cup and reduced properly.. and tip dry. only issues i ran into trying to make the switch to waterbased paints
 
Keep experimenting with your ratios, I have mine down to where tip dry isn't eliminated, but it is negligible even with white. In fact, I find black worse than white for tip dry. I have never used uros, but those that do, say waterbased doesn't compare, but for me, with Wicked, I can acheive whatever I need.
 
createx wicked sprays as good as urethanes ... just a little more hassle to keep it spraying that good. keep the paint and reducer mixed and keep tip dry down. but i can get anything with them that i ever got with euor's. just more hassle sometimes
 
Don't be surprised by some settling of the pigments.

I was recently using some Wicked Detail Paynes Grey. Reduced of course. While I went and watched a TV show and left it in my cup, I came back, shook it up, and it sprayed terrible and wasn't the same color.
So I emptied the cup to find a layer of dark blue (which is part of the paynes grey formula) that would NOT remix even though I had shaken and backflushed the brush.

My conclusion is, that on some Wicked colors you need to use what you have in the brush and clean. Don't give it time to settle out.

If you have a smaller piece of work and a cup full of paint... you're asking for trouble. Use a little bit, clean, and refill with new fresh un-molested paint.
 
yep bossman... that's what i mean by wicked paint being more of a hassle than urethane... with urethanes i never worried about tip dry (just blast a lot of paint it would clear itself).. or if my paint would seperate or not stay mixed. so urethanes are much easier to use but the strong fumes and supposedly more toxic formula has me trying the createx wicked and autoair
 
There you have 2 perfect reasons to use your mask - er, sorry - respirator.
These fumes are the airborn particles given off by the urothane, and are definately not meant to be inside your lungs.
Just ask your GP next time you're there and listen to what they say.
 
I recenlty shifted from urethanes to wicked paints. What a nightmare it is, not because they are bad paints, but because i have to forget anything i know about paint. Leave it a while and clogs, overreduce it and forget fine lines, spray straight from the bottle and here comes the tip dry. I saw some tutorial videos from wicked where they spray undiluted, and I almost threw my airbrush away :) Ok, I don't know how they can spray that way, but know that I thin the paint a lot more, it'a getting a little less frustrating.
It's a relief that I'm not the only one that can't work well with these paints.
 
Yes I have tried every ratio of reducer and airpressure under the sun and I can not get the same behavior from water based as ure's and in my honest opinion if you take two as close to identical pieces and compare them after they have been cleared. You definately see where urethanes shine. The clear coat makes the paint come alive especially the candies. Water based paints are great and I will continue to refine my own process with them however if ya want that warm, rich and deep look grab your respirator grab your urethanes and start slinging baby !
 
I started out using wicked along with high performance reducer and I just couldn't,t get on with it at all, Almost put me off picking up a brush again.i think the paint is almost to 'plastic' like for want of a better description, I found I could never successfully mix paint/reducer in the cup, like the paint and reducer are not compatible in someway. Even when very reduced, I,d end up with blockages only to find congealed bits of paint in the bowl. I,ve given up on wicked, too much messing about and risky for me. As I really only do projects on paper or board I ended up using com art and it really was a revelation!, paint from bottle to brush to canvas, no problem?
The fact I've given up on the wicked brand bugs me a bit as so many people swear by them and I just swear at them!, going wrong somewhere I guess but their just not for me I guess!
 
I have mixed feelings about wicked I prefer my ETAC to wicked allot easier to clean out the AB also. I will be trying some Goldens high flow soon. I really don't mind if I have to reduce my paint it stretchs the bottle farther. But being a beginner the com art is easy to get started with and use. I have a whole set of wicked detail colors you also need to remember the detail colors have finer pigment then the regular.
 
It,s true that the wicked range is essentially their transparent range and so stands to reason why it has a finer pigment, but god knows why they make it soooo thick! As I can get consistent with it (and I know that is mainly me), I just don,t trust it, I ruined a piece ,I'd put 6 hours into because it clogged then spat ( I had just cleaned the tip dry off), was not a happy camper.
I have total confidence in comart, Yes you get through it faster but i would gladly pay out for another bottle sooner than have to restart any work from scratch!
 
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