Anyone have experence with 20s/early 30s Paasche AB Airbrushes?

[Drastion]

I recently got a really old Paasche B airbrush. Was a little disappointed when I realized it was the drafting version. It sure put a grin on my face when I heard it spin up.

First is it bad to use the trigger to move the needle when the airbrush is not in motion?

Is the needle guide bracket in any way spring loaded. As in how does the adjustment screw work if it is free floating?

I assume my bracket is seized up as I cannot get it to move. I didn't try to use any tools just my fingers since I did not want to damage anything. I am guessing I need to take the cover off to adjust it.

How far away from the blast nozzle should the needle be?

I am thinking my bracket is too far up as it seems the needle touches the nozzle.

Lastly can the walking arm impact the housing?

There seemed to be a small vibration in the airbrush. I turned in the lever adjustment screw and that seemed to help and allow the flywheel to slowly wind down.

I have to say this is one of the coolest things I have bought in a long time. I love being able to understand how things work and being able to work on them myself. Probably drove my parents nuts taking apart all my toys to see how they worked.

 

[DaveG]

Here is a link to the Airbrush Museum page of Paasche AB turbo instructions. Their own setup instructions are actually about the best I have found - https://www.airbrushmuseum.com/airbrush_lit_inst_paasche_ab_index.htm

There is no issue moving the trigger while the brush is not running.

No spring on the needle guide, it works on its own weight - it should e free to move.

I run mine with the needle just in front of the nozzle. You can move the location of the nozzle by rotating the air blast tube up or down - it the nozzle is screwed all the way in, sometimes the tube must be bent manually to give clearance. Gentle, as you don;t want to crush it!

The swing of the walking arm is preset by the screw on the back of the triger. Follow the setup instructions to set it up correctly. It should not contact anything.

Not sure I understand the notion of being disappointed at having the model B (drafting version?)... they are ALL cool!

 

[Drastion]

Ok that explains my confusion. The manual just says not to tight not to loose so it will hold the needle is a bit vague.

But it works under its own weight the adjustment screw keeps it from falling to far down and my one being stuck in place is what is messing it up.

Then the vibration is probably the needle hitting the nozzle. Which is why I was hoping playing with the trigger would be a safe way to test the needles movement. Almost want to mark it so I can see the little thing.

The brush feels much more natural in the drafting position just its awkward compared to what I am used to. It was more just trying to identify what it was. It has a really low serial number the trigger isn't the same as any of the others I have seen and it didn't have a A or B designation.

Did the older ones have a Thayer Chandler threading on them?

Not sure if there was such a thing as after market parts back then. But the hose attachment is more like raw brass but looks like the illustrations.

 

[DaveG]

Yeah, my early A is the same thread pitch as a TC, Wold, or Badger - #10 x 60tpi

 

[airbrushmuseum]

Ok that explains my confusion. The manual just says not to tight not to loose so it will hold the needle is a bit vague.

Your Paasche B is much different than later ABs.
Attached is the instruction sheet for the 1931 Paasce models A & B.
I also attached a photo of a Paasche A showing the parts and part numbers for the needle guide. The needle guide is not free floating, it can be raised and lowere using the adjustment screw. The instructions have a paragraph about the needle settings on the first page.
If yours looks different, attach a photo.
The only add ons available were the parts to convert an A to a B and vice versa as shown in the instructions.

 

[Drastion]

Yeah, my early A is the same thread pitch as a TC, Wold, or Badger - #10 x 60tpi

View attachment 87757

Thanks for that picture. Does the tab attached to the cup have some kind of reinforcement solder on it. Was trying to clean my brush up thinking it was a bunch of paint.

When you paint with your A style. Do you need to hold it horizontally to keep the cup level or does it need to be tilted forward like a normal modern brush?

 

[Drastion]

Your Paasche B is much different than later ABs.
Attached is the instruction sheet for the 1931 Paasce models A & B.
I also attached a photo of a Paasche A showing the parts and part numbers for the needle guide. The needle guide is not free floating, it can be raised and lowere using the adjustment screw. The instructions have a paragraph about the needle settings on the first page.
If yours looks different, attach a photo.
The only add ons available were the parts to convert an A to a B and vice versa as shown in the instructions.

Appreciate you dropping that file. It is so much easier to read than the file I was using.

 

[DaveG]

Thanks for that picture. Does the tab attached to the cup have some kind of reinforcement solder on it. Was trying to clean my brush up thinking it was a bunch of paint.

When you paint with your A style. Do you need to hold it horizontally to keep the cup level or does it need to be tilted forward like a normal modern brush?

This example was modified by an owner sometime in the past. The angle of the cup was altered to allow comfortable use on an inclined surface, rather than either just horizontal, or vertical. A tilted drawing table is comfortable to keep the angle correct -


I refurbished the brush a bit trying to keep it original as possible, while still getting enough plating on it to prevent the brass from corroding. I did remove a good bit of errant solder from the cup/bracket area prior to re-plating the pieces.