HP-CS

BoboLamo

Young Tutorling
Hello everyone. New to the forum. Thanks for the acceptance.

I have an HP-CS and I’ve noticed the trigger action (pressing down) is much “shorter” than my HP-AH.

When looking at the pin from the bottom the travel of the pin also confirms there is much less travel than my HP-AH. Maybe 1mm vs 2mm compared to the HP-AH.

Also. I have an external MAC valve and it does not work on my HP-CS.

Do I have a faulty HP-CS?

Is there supposed to be something in this little cavity? From what I can see on the schematics, there isn’t Anything that’s supposed to be there.

Please help!
 
Pictures are not showing up for me either... that said, they are two different brushes from two different lines - an Eclipse, and a Highline. So, two different triggers. The Eclipse uses a trigger with a pin attached to the bottom of it, while the HP-AH has a cross pin that pushes down on a separate pin. Pretty much apples and orange as far as comparing ho much they may, or may not move...

On the external MAC valve, what do you mean when you say it does not work on the Eclipse? Can you be a bit more specific?
 
Pictures are not showing up for me either... that said, they are two different brushes from two different lines - an Eclipse, and a Highline. So, two different triggers. The Eclipse uses a trigger with a pin attached to the bottom of it, while the HP-AH has a cross pin that pushes down on a separate pin. Pretty much apples and orange as far as comparing ho much they may, or may not move...

On the external MAC valve, what do you mean when you say it does not work on the Eclipse? Can you be a bit more specific?
Thanks for the reply guys. Yes, I’ve taken them both apart and I understand they are From different lines.

What I mean is when I put the Mac valve on the CS and fully open the valve, only a quick “poof” of air comes out and then nothing.

The same MAC valve, when put on the AH (I know the AH has its own built in valve but I put the Mac valve on the AH to see if it was the valve) it works perfectly well on the AH.

The pin in the valve barely moves when you depress the trigger on the CS.

I’m not sure why the picture isn’t loading but I’m talking about the small cylindrical depression under the trigger of the CS.
 

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picture finally loaded. The original picture was too large. This is the area I mean. It seems like there should be something in this cylindrical depreciation under the trigger.
 

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does your cs trigger look like this? The pin on the bottom passes through the o-ring in the hole of you picture

iwata-main-lever-trigger.jpg
 
@DaveG When I say “pin”, I mean the piston. The CS piston barely moves about 1mm (or even less) when I press down on the trigger and observe the piston movement.

The AH piston moves 2-3mm maybe

Other note. The CS works “okay” without the Mac valve. However, when I push the trigger down and do not pull it back at all, paint starts spraying. Paint sprays immediately, even when I don’t pull it back at all. The unit is brand new, just got it. There is no dual action. My HP-CS is acting like a single action airbrush. Very strange.

I’m pretty mechanically inclined and can take it apart and back together, no problem. I don’t see anything wrong with any of the parts or no missing parts from the schematic or other references I see online.
 

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I’ve confirmed the pin on the trigger goes into the o ring. Otherwise the piston wouldn’t move. I wonder if the length of the pin on the trigger is too short (not pushing the piston down far enough)?

Does anyone know how long the pin on the trigger is supposed to be?
 
brush work without the mac valve attached?

Edit, I just read the brush works ok without the mac valve. The valve on ly needs to open far enough to break the seal. !mm is plenty. Additional travel offers nothing in terms of use. Are you tightening the mac valve onto the brush very tight? Sometimes the o-ring in the valve itself will collapse preventing the air from flowing into the brush if it is screwed on too tight.
 
at the bottom of the valve the brass pin on my CS moves less than on my AH. But both work as expected. I have not removed the valve to see the trigger pin movements as the two are related of course. I don’t have an external mac valve so can’t common that.
 
brush work without the mac valve attached?
The CS works “okay” without the Mac valve. However, when I push the trigger down and do not pull it back at all, paint starts spraying. Paint sprays immediately, even when I don’t pull it back at all. The unit is brand new, just got it. There is no dual action. My HP-CS is acting like a single action airbrush. Very strange.
 
The CS works “okay” without the Mac valve. However, when I push the trigger down and do not pull it back at all, paint starts spraying. Paint sprays immediately, even when I don’t pull it back at all. The unit is brand new, just got it. There is no dual action. My HP-CS is acting like a single action airbrush. Very strange.
loosen the chucking nut, and confirm your needle is seated all the way into the nozzle.
 
brush work without the mac valve attached?

Edit, I just read the brush works ok without the mac valve. The valve on ly needs to open far enough to break the seal. !mm is plenty. Additional travel offers nothing in terms of use. Are you tightening the mac valve onto the brush very tight? Sometimes the o-ring in the valve itself will collapse preventing the air from flowing into the brush if it is screwed on too tight.
Genius. Maybe this is what’s going on. I did tighten it pretty tight. Let me check. However, I tightened the same on the AH and no problem. Also tried it two or three times, and it still didn’t work. I’ll try again with less tightening.

I really appreciate your guy’s time and attention for helping out a newbie!!! I know this is a little annoying. Appreciate you all.

I still don’t know why it is acting like a single action, when I press the trigger, it starts spraying right away. Even without pulling back. I was using some cheap acrylic that was thinned out, however the same paint sprayed just fine out of the AH, this is why I’m concerned something might be wrong.
 
like Dave said : if paint starts flowing without pulling the trigger back the needle isnt seated in the nozzle and I see you used cheap acrylic so chances are your nozzle is dirty and preventing the needle to get seated as it should
cheap acrylic paints contain coarse pigments that will block your nozzle no matter how much you thin them down that is why there are airbrush specific acrylic paints on the market
 
Hi BoboLmao
1st Welcome to the forum.
2nd, I don't know what your definition of tight is, but you really don't need tight on an Iwata.
Barley more than snug should suffice.

I would suggest cleaning the nozzle and needle and starting over. On the Eclipse, the .03 nozzle is in a bullet looking carrier and should not be separated, the .05 carrier is the nozzle.

Everything I say after this should be done with care. Be careful not to bend needle or damage nozzle.
Remove the rear handle
Loosen the chuck nut holding the needle.
Retract the needle
Remove the head cap
Remove the nozzle
Remove the needle, I do this from the front on the Eclipse, but from the back is ok too.
Clean nozzle and needle.
(You may as well clean the entire brush at this point.)
After cleaning, reassemble the brush except for the needle and head cap.

Eclipse only:
!!! It is important to do following in correct order, exactly as described.

I make sure the needle is properly in the nozzle by inserting the needle into the brush without tighting the chuck nut, point the airbrush straight up, gently push the needle out the front far enough to place the nozzle on the needle just above where it normally seats, the tip will protrude, withdraw the needle so the nozzle drops into its seated position.
Then put on the head assembly and snug it down.
 Now tighten the chuck nut, put the back handle back on.
And done.

There may be others with better ideas, but I've always done it this way and it works well.

@DaveG , comments?

-Joe
 
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