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Plotter Stand

Discussion in 'Open Bar!' started by Vladimir, Dec 2, 2018.


  1. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    Those who were interested in buying cutting plotter to use it for the custom painting needs know that 15 inch models come without the stand as their bigger brothers. These 15 inch models are considered to be table top units.
    I find inconvenient to use a plotter on the counter and using the machine without media feed system works for bad tracking of the material if one intends to send long jobs to cut.
    The model I’ve bought has the same tech characteristics as its bigger size models, the only difference is the cutting width. Stands come only for models starting from 28 inch models. So I thought I needed to make something myself.
    Last year I did the stand with media feed rolls. Then in a half a year the frame for the media catch basket. Then I started to think over what material to use as the basket itself. Synthetic materials add more static electricity, so I decided to buy something natural, like cotton or smth. Then I thought that I would need to remove the dust from the basket from time to time by removing it and shaking. Rather annoying process I’d say. If not to remove the dust, what is the reason to use that basket, if you’d have the same result just letting long jobs just go on the floor.
    Then an idea stoke me. Why not to make the basket out off sheet steel!? Yeah, that’s it! So I have now steel basket.

    Media feed rollers are made with stainless steel. They aren’t tubes as plotter manufacturers do, but steel rods that were hardened and then sanded using special machine. Thus precision is as good as it can be, but such a level of work is not required for such a purpose (feed rollers). Tubes as the rollers would work well.
    Rollers are placed on the aluminum base using ball bearings, so everything rolls smooth as it can be.
    I've asked the questions about the distance between the rollers, but had zero answers, so I;ve made my own calculations. It seems everything works OK.
    There are two positions of the rollers, one for 10 yards rolls, another on for 50 yards rolls.

    I've done all the dimensions as I consider them to be convenient for normal work. The height is bigger than I saw at big pro machines.

    I’m posting the thread having the stand unfinished, as someone could make something similar before I can finish this project. Besides that, I would like to hear some advice on what to add maybe. Long time users’ advice of the plotter the most appreciated.

    In my mind there are some ideas on custompainting the thing with the effect paints. That’s going to be fun!
    What you see now is bare steel that's going to be treated as car body, so it's going to look cool in the end. Parts will be sanded and polished where it's required.

    Some things I want to add to this plotter stand are knife holder and the holder for multiple blade holders. Knife holder is nice to have for not searching the knife somewhere just to cut finished job off the roll. Holder for blade holders for the reason not to adjust one blade holder for every different roll, but to install one blade holder set up for one material.

    What do you all think? All the advice are much appreciated!

    1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG
  2. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    Awesome job Vladimir. You over did it! :D

    You are using that cutter only for vinyl right(or materials which have another layer of paper under it)? Cause I can't see place for cutting mat which I am using when I cut mylar or something without protective paper.
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  3. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    You will see my cutting mat later;)

    What mat(s) do you use and for what? I have low tack mat from Silhouette (and other) and I don't know what to use it for, as for mylar sheets regular mat is used. Just bought it for the curiosity and saw that dotted glue pattern at home, maybe I wouldn't have bought it. It's definitely not a thing I'd use for the mylar.
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  4. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    I have 2 normal ones for silhouete and one the biggest one also for silhouete. The biggest one I use for a3 mylar sheets. The smaller ones I use for smaller mylar cuts. I have 2 normal ones, cause I cuted true one on the corner -.- when I was still learning about the machine. But that one is used now for test runs and to see if blade is set to far. Much of my issues went away that day when I bought cb09 blade holder and graphtec blades with it:
    https://www.amazon.com/Yakamoz-Grap...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VM2PYPHZ8M0RFK0HX7NQ

    I bought 3 of those blade holders with 15 blades each, so I have 45 blades now. Still using the first one. Those blades are indestructible lol
  5. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Very Likeable!

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    That looks amazing Vladimir. I’m looking forward to see it finished up. Cool project for sure Buddy.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  6. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Done a good job on that stand Vlad, looks like a professional job.
    I haven't got room for a stand so mine sits on a table, its a 24" cutting area so is about 32" across, thankfully I have a wide table and it sits at the end of my computer/painting room. I don't have a cutting mat but if I need to cut mylar or similar I just use some thick card with re-positional low tack spray glue on it. Works like a charm. That reminds me I brought that sheet of 250 micron mylar to see if I could cut it.. Must remember to have a try. I am too lazy and get distracted very easily.

    Lee
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  7. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    What cutter do you use?
    It seems I will load you with maybe tons of the questions;)
    I've seen good video on how to adjust the blade depth for the vinyls, and do the adjustment with no problem, but haven't done any cuts of polymer sheets. BTW, I've already bought some, so maybe you will buy the same, if you haven't bought them already.

    It's great you've mentioned good blade holder. I'm now making measurements and design for my custom blade holder. The goal is to get precision better than the stock one gives. I already have ideas and thought about expensive Roland design blade holder and also had thought on Graphtech's blade holder, both of these have the same concept of the feature that work for precision.

    Could you make the measurement for me of the bottom diameter of the "base" of the holder that slides on the material. Not the hole for the blade to come out of the base, but that one first outer diameter (outer base diameter). I hope I've expressed myself clearly.

    I even have thoughts on customizing the carriage. But I haven't removed the carriage cover yet.

    Me either:)
    I think, I'll have some sweet cookies attached to this thing. And the custom painting project promises to be fun, for what I've planned here makes me smile even thinking of it. BTW special paints are already here and some vector graphics are done.
    Another thing is adding the things to the stand and the time that I do not have. My forecast is that we'll not see it finished in year maybe. That's one of the reason I posting it unfinished.

    Thanx Lee!
    What plotter do use?

    Stand hugely adds convenience for work. You could buy ready to use roller base and attach it to simple stand. It's much more convenient to have the plotter on the stand. It's like night and day, stand and without it.

    Yeah, it's a good idea to make DIY mat. I saw a video on restoration the mat and thought why can't one just make it out of the mylar (or similar) sheet? Just spray on repositional glue 3M (75 if I'm not wrong) of similar spray glue. What you've said tells me I was right. In future I maybe will do the same thing as you already do.

    How do you guys cut the sheets? What pressure, speed, double cuts or... just anything. I have zero experience for this second, just only some basic knowledge.
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  8. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    I am buying a3 mylar sheets in 100 pieces in a one go. It's much cheaper if I buy bulk. What kinda polymer sheets are we talking about?

    For mylar I eye ball with mylar next to the blade wearing this:
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Babimax-Il..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=801AK4T38VX7ACTPJDVS

    When I got the settings I don't change it. I have one blade deticated just for mylar.

    for vinyl: I put it on mat - the one I destroyed corner which I am using it for testing and slowly adding pressure and blade size- I use autoblade(stock cameo 3 blade) for vinyl. I tried mylar with stock blade, and I destroyed blade with my first try. That was the reason I went with cb09 blade. As soon I seen how good is cb09 I ordered 2 more.

    When I destroyed corner of my first mat I bought this for using with vinyl:
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/UEETEK-Thi..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=S80M33B9WHJ5R2WXTFA7

    so I can do this:
    http://www.ukscrappers.co.uk/boards...ometer-to-correctly-set-your-Silhouette-blade

    but I never used it, I just test run on mat, cause I don't care if I destroy my already destroyed mat :) But, it cuts much better if you put vinyl on mat instead of not using one for vinyl.


    Cameo 3

    what exactly do you need?
    [​IMG]
    Can you mark on this picture? It's not the same blade but at least I will figure it out what you need.


    you can use glue which screen printers use.

    It depends.
    Oramask with autoblade:
    vladimir.jpg

    for mylar i use cb09 blade , i set it by eye balling, like I already told you, and full force. Cameo doesn't have ''best'' pressure lol . But it works very nice :)

    For the rest I use my ''test'' mat and I play with settings until I find the right one.
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  9. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    Thanx @huskystafford!

    I'll take the pictures of the sheets, so it would be better to discuss, maybe will make some measurements of the sheets.

    We talking different languages when you telling the things in Cameo settings and I don't have the vocabulary:) Many plotters use grams to define the pressure, mine also. I can see you also have special language for the cutting speed, where many plotters use mm/sec.
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  10. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    Here you go;)

    Quest.jpg
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  11. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    you will get measurements tomorrow. I don't have this, but my old man does:
    [​IMG]

    I was at my parents place few minutes before, but I'm to tired and lazy! to go back and bother my old man. I was buying stuff which I need for my lights for airbrushing. I spend frikin 100 euros without tubes. Tubes will be 25 euros extra. -.-

    So I will do that tomorrow. Now its 7pm my time :)

    you wanna measurements of autoblade or cb09 blade holder?
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  12. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    to bad I can't help you :( And I was trying to do my best lol I even made a screen shoot! :D
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  13. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    You should have the thing! It's real useful.

    So, all your headaches about the lights were just for airbrushing? I thought, you did that for something very serious. I see no problem using 6000K.

    Both would be great.



    I understand you. Making that hard effort of making the screenshot!:D And in the end I don't understand Silhouette language!
    Thanx, anyway!
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  14. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    My old man has really big arsenal of tools and if I need something i borrow like cheap bastard I am -.- And I would spend bunch of money to buy all stuff which are use full. Right now I just make a phone call, coffee is waiting for me after that phone call and I just pick what I need lol
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  15. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    I just brought a digital caliper off ebay for £3 delivered.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-6i...m=192642690254&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982
    I use it for checking my tyre depths for work.

    The Plotter:
    I have a Foison C24 cutter (runs on graphtech drivers). Luckily I have the ability to do a test cut which cuts a small rectangle so I can keep doing the test cuts on a corner or scrap piece of mylar until its at the correct pressure to do a single pass. After doing the testing I put my cutting pressure on 99 and use a 60 deg blade with single cut using the card as a cutting mat, and the 3m repostionable spray is also the one I use. I found that at those settings I could cut 190 micron fairly easily. I have a sheet of 250 micron mylar which I am yet to try to cut. When I get motivated I will have a go at cutting some freehand shields out of it.

    Lee
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  16. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    Do you use it for the mylar? Because for the backed vinyl how can it be useful?
    Do you measure by putting the pit going out of the tool body on the bottom edge of the blade holder and the tool body on the blade end?

    I've had a look at the machine. Cool tech characteristics it has!
    Single path? 99 isn't grams I should think, just your machine settings?
    I've bought only 60 degree blades only as I think that's what we need for the custom painting and ABing. 30 and 45 degree blades came with the plotter and I don't know when I'd use them.
    I have different sheets, so I need to try them. For the shields you're going to use the thickest mylar, are you?
    I've got some thoughts on making a set of the freehand shields. Do you have some similar plans and what kind (shapes) of the shields are you going to make?
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  17. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    After some time I had my steel basket installed, one simple idea came:)

    The basket purpose in the plotter stand is not to allow the material to reach floor's dirt (dust etc). In the case of using steel not cloth for the catching basket, it's possible to make just a tray, that would work just as needed for this purpose. One thing is required, if to be used in my case, it's to add 10cm of length for both front and rear sides of the tray.

    In the case using the tray instead of the basket, it would be easier and faster to remove dust from the bottom with wet rag.
    The tray is easier to make and requires less sheet steel. So, you can spare some cash, time and the efforts.

    I will not redo my basket, but you guys can use the idea as shown below;)

    tray.jpg
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  18. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    Have a link?

    I've bought some different type of sheets to try:

    1 - photo film for inkjet printing.
    It's the most transparent and shiny. It looks like the inks wouldn't stick to it, but why would they sell it for inkjet printing?
    Thickness - 120 microns.

    2 - transparent sheets used as tops for binding paper A4 format, that one used in offices. I have this machine at home, so plenty of sheets are here.
    Transparent, thickness - 200 microns.

    3 - mylar sheets for inkjet printing, bought in art shop for the reason to try. I have two sizes A4 and A3, both have frosty layer for printing, not transparent, thickness - A4 - 130 microns, A3 - 260 microns. I think 10 microns in both cases added by applying special layer for the printing.

    Only the binding sheets are not solvent proof, but if you go not extremely wet (why would you go wet with AB mask?) they also work good with the urethanes. These sheets are the most stiff, though not the thickest of them all. It good feature in some cases. And they are the cheapest among all.

    Photo film seems to be good for things like tanks and fenders, all 120 microns sheets bind easily.

    What do you guys find good for what use?

    Mylar is PP? Mylar is just market name to get some extra cash off our wallets, am I right?
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  19. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    I buy createx ones from local store. I made a deal with them if they wanna see my money.

    I also went to my old ones, brought to them autoblade and cb09, and my old man will make technical drawings of those blades for you. Probably you will get it tomorrow...
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  20. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    I made me a cutting mat with 350micron mylar. I also use it for replacement cutting strips in my Cameo v.1. I originally bought it to make stencils but the Cameo can not cut through it, no matter how many double cuts I did. So I decided to make cutting surfaces out of it.

    I can only manage to go through 190micron mylar if I do double and sometimes tripple cuts and the heaviest pressure. I only do very basic shapes like this. More technical designs I have laser cut.
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