Cycle helmets

[Niknooo1]

I am looking into custom painting a full face down hill cycle helmet. I currently use wicked detail which I believe would be ok. My question is about clear coating, what to use, how to use it and all helpful tips to get a professional finish.

 

[MeeshellMP]

Im sure someone from your area will be along to help ya!! As far as I know, its 2k clear

 

[Niknooo1]

I was thinking, I will need a primer as well most likley. So some help on that to please.

 

[AndreZA]

It is already primed isn't it. You just roughen up the clear, do base coat, do artwork and clear.

 

[Niknooo1]

It is already primed isn't it. You just roughen up the clear, do base coat, do artwork and clear.

good point. Thanks

 

[Niknooo1]

Im sure someone from your area will be along to help ya!! As far as I know, its 2k clear

Not used 2K before, but looked it up on the web, and it looks ok. I see they do spray cans, a bit expensive, but may be easier for my first attempt, just to see how it all goes. I assume this would go on composite (plastic) or carbon type helmets?

 

[MeeshellMP]

Not used 2K before, but looked it up on the web, and it looks ok. I see they do spray cans, a bit expensive, but may be easier for my first attempt, just to see how it all goes. I assume this would go on composite (plastic) or carbon type helmets?

Yes, works just fine.

 

[Immortal Concepts]

What are you using as airbrush paint? Different paints require different clearing techniques.

 

[Niknooo1]

What are you using as airbrush paint? Different paints require different clearing techniques.

I was going to use Wicked detail, which is the paint I am most used to. I believe this is ok on most materials.

 

[Immortal Concepts]

yeah, so with clear you will need 2 dry coats to lock it in, med coat then a wet coat

 

[Niknooo1]

yeah, so with clear you will need 2 dry coats to lock it in, med coat then a wet coat

Thanks for you help.

 

[JaPizzy]

I use wicked and autoair, and when I clear it I just go right in to wet coats. I've personally never had a problem.

 

[Niknooo1]

So.......I've done something wrong!

Rubbed down with 120 wet and dry, masked up, degreased with lighter fluid, and two coats of halfords standard white car primer aerosol. The day was warm, but damp, however I painted inside my garage. As you can see the primer is all wrinkly, and I noticed what looked like water on the surface after spraying. ( defiantly dry before) Could it be insufficient time between coats or a reaction with the original helmet finish?

I guess I will wait until tomorrow, rub it down and try a light coat and see what happens. But any help would be appreciated.

 

[Immortal Concepts]

Uhh lighter fluid is not a degreaser. Nor is gasoline. Fuel and paint, waterbased or urethane, don't mix at all as it attacks the paint. It's one of the dreads us motorcycle painters face when prepping around the filler neck.
Also notice the peeling is following the paths of your scratch marks. Way too aggressive grit. 600 grit is fine for no bodywork needed situations. 200-600 is your range for primer. 400-800 is your range on basecoat sticking to primer.

 

[Immortal Concepts]

Thing is now your contaminate which is the lighter fluid, has seeped into the sand scratches and will be hard to clean out. If in a pinch always use rubbing alcohol for degreaser, not a fuel as its oily.

 

[Niknooo1]

Thing is now your contaminate which is the lighter fluid, has seeped into the sand scratches and will be hard to clean out. If in a pinch always use rubbing alcohol for degreaser, not a fuel as its oily.

Thanks for your comments, my failure was thinking the youtube advice i found was correct, should have known better.

I have re prepared the helmet, rubbed down with 600 and re painted, with lighter coats, and it looks much better. It will just need a light rub over once its fully dry.
I think with hindsight, that I should have used a darker basecoat/primer to cover the old pattern, then the white, as I think I tried to hard, to soon to cover the old pattern with the white, that, combined with the lighter fluid........still, all good lessons to learn. The helmet is my son's old one, so its just for a learning experience, although you still like to make a good job of it.

 

[markjthomson]

Looks like an incompatability paint reaction. What is the helmet made from? That will determine what you can use on it. Cycle helmets are quite possibly a polycarbonate. If it is a fibreglass it shouldn't be so bad. What imortal says about sanding is important. 120 grit is for bulk removal. You ned a really high build primer for even 180. For prepping something lije that scotchbrite shoukd be adequate.

 

[Matwes]

yeah, so with clear you will need 2 dry coats to lock it in, med coat then a wet coat

This method works perfect, brilliant result.

 

[Niknooo1]

Looks like an incompatability paint reaction. What is the helmet made from? That will determine what you can use on it. Cycle helmets are quite possibly a polycarbonate. If it is a fibreglass it shouldn't be so bad. What imortal says about sanding is important. 120 grit is for bulk removal. You ned a really high build primer for even 180. For prepping something lije that scotchbrite shoukd be adequate.

Thanks for the advice, the helmet is carbon fibre with a plastic (not sure what sort, quite flexible ) peak that is separate. The wrinkling occurred equally on both parts. I have rubbed down and re sprayed and the wrinkles are gone, but I did end up with some slight pitting in the areas that the wrinkles were, even though they were sanded smooth. They are quite light and I think I can loose them with a light sand before beginning my art work.

 

[markjthomson]

Yes, wrinkles are tricky... if you want them out really well get a light filler putty. Carbon epoxy should be OK with the primer so it's probably the stuff you used for degreasing. Be REALLY careful with the peak and any non-water based paints - it is likely it will react or worse, melt. Sounds like you've had a fun learning experience... good thing it was something small!