A simple review of the H&S Infinity 2024
- Thread starter yfen444
- Start date
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
I have not touched the F1 and F2 since I got the first Infinity 2024 in. I got the second about a week ago, but am still waiting on a few other items to arrive from Germany. There has been much going on with these brushes that caught me a bit by surprise when I received the first one. It has been an interesting experience thus far.This is a great quick test! I take it you were comparing the H&S 24 brushes with the old/new F1 and F2, if so they are in very different weight categories
I'll stop grumping now.
Initial comments - there's a slight click upon pulling the trigger back, might be stiction with the needle bushing. The trigger top doesn't bother me in the same way as some people have commented. I've had a look at the nozzle under the scope and the needle appears fully seated in it, which is good. Had a very brief play with some paint in it, and it seems repeatedly controllable on fine lines, which is also good.
I've slackened off the air spring a bit, which makes it feel nicer (to me); I've also got the needle tension backed off about as far as I can (which is probably why I can feel the click at the start of movement).
Interesting that the plastic insert on the stand is much looser than the one on my Evo stand - with the latter, the brush would be so snug that I'd pull the insert out every time I used it (until I put some tape on the insert to make it slightly more of a jam fit in the stand.
Initial comments - there's a slight click upon pulling the trigger back, might be stiction with the needle bushing. The trigger top doesn't bother me in the same way as some people have commented. I've had a look at the nozzle under the scope and the needle appears fully seated in it, which is good. Had a very brief play with some paint in it, and it seems repeatedly controllable on fine lines, which is also good.
I've slackened off the air spring a bit, which makes it feel nicer (to me); I've also got the needle tension backed off about as far as I can (which is probably why I can feel the click at the start of movement).
Interesting that the plastic insert on the stand is much looser than the one on my Evo stand - with the latter, the brush would be so snug that I'd pull the insert out every time I used it (until I put some tape on the insert to make it slightly more of a jam fit in the stand.
For anyone that has a 2024 Infinity and Evolution. Which trigger do you find feels more comfortable?
I want to get a new trigger for my old Infinity and am trying to decide which one to get. I do curve my finger over the front side of the trigger. My Evo 2024 triggers little ledge digs into my finger a tiny bit during use. So I am wondering if the Ultra or Infinity trigger would avoid that.
I want to get a new trigger for my old Infinity and am trying to decide which one to get. I do curve my finger over the front side of the trigger. My Evo 2024 triggers little ledge digs into my finger a tiny bit during use. So I am wondering if the Ultra or Infinity trigger would avoid that.
Good to know. I don't think parts will be available for a while anyways. Just a shame to have such a nice airbrush sitting in its case unused for so long.
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
I put the Evo 2024 trigger on Infinity 2024 without issue. Putting the Infinity trigger on the other brushes will cost you some top end needle movement (the max width spray pattern is reduced), but it works OK. The Ultra trigger has nibs to work with it's gated action, and is maybe not suited for use in the other brushes - I will take another look at that...
For me, going with a softer air valve spring makes all of the triggers a more pleasant experience, as there is no need to put so much pressure on any of the shapes or textures associated in order to work the action(s).
Good catch. I was just looking at the trigger button design. I totally forgot the Ultra had that gated trigger mechanism.
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
Pushing down on the back of the trigger generally stands the trigger up straight, which is the same as drawing it back a little from the front. If you are also pushing forward on the trigger, you will not get the natural arch in movement.
I remember seeing that on a Harder Steenbeck video. Always wondered why when I watched a YouTube airbrushing video for ideas and seeing someone continually rock the trigger back and fourth. Seemed like a lot of movement for the same results as just cocking it back a tiny bit and aiming at what you want painted. But that is probably from me working in a factory so long. Being efficient in movement just makes everything easier to do and replicate.
Warrick from H&S has mentioned it in the YT video. My understanding is that the new off-centre Infinity trigger offers:
a backward arch of finger movement on the back of the trigger leads to: 1. trigger pushed down then 2. trigger moved backwards
a forward arch of finger movement on the back of the trigger leads to: 3. trigger moved forwards then 4. trigger released up.
With a traditional trigger and a natural arch of finger movement, 1 and 2, or 3 and 4, will happen simultaneously, which is a bad practice for using an airbrush.
OK, I've found it -
Just about getting to grips with that now; I'd been managing to push down on the back & just trigger air. Not sure how much I'll use it, but a potentially useful additional trick for the toolbox. Air on/paint on/paint off/air off isn't something I found problematic, but this might allow for shorter bursts. Maybe.
Just about getting to grips with that now; I'd been managing to push down on the back & just trigger air. Not sure how much I'll use it, but a potentially useful additional trick for the toolbox. Air on/paint on/paint off/air off isn't something I found problematic, but this might allow for shorter bursts. Maybe.
Paul Howard
Young Tutorling
Dave, I have both. I won’t be able to compare them initial tomorrow due to schedule.
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
No worries - I am just curious to see how others may perceive the results they may see out of the brush.
Paul Howard
Young Tutorling
Well, I tested using Golden High Flow and 50% distilled water since I figured most people on the forum are art centric air rushers. I found that the Evolution 2024 .28 nozzle & cap sprays beautifully in the new Infinity 2024 body down to about 11-12 psi. Softer lines and more diffuse dots than the titanium setup but still as good as I’ve ever gotten with any of my .2mm brushes. The new Infinity 2024 nozzle and cap spray finer lines and sharper dots and work well down to about 6-7 psi easily matching what I can do with my CM -B or Olympos Microns. Thinning the mix to 70% distilled water meant I could go down to 5 psi and still get reliable operation. The new titanium setup works beautifully on the Evolution 2024 body also, but I couldn’t go as low on the pressure 9-10 psi for reliable function. I do scale models mostly with only very occasional forays into artwork so your mileage may vary, but I hope this helps.
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
Thank you for taking the time. I appreciate it! If you ever feel like trying anything else, try the cross model parts using paint mixes you would normally use, rather than reducing to create the desired results.
I concur the brush will work down into much lower air pressures with the Ti headset, and do so admirably provided paint reduction is good.
What I found in my playing around is that the new Ti parts/new brush do everything they are supposed to do. But, when I reached for anything else, including the Evolution 2024, I found that they too would achieve similar results, but in the end much easier. Less reducing, no worries about air pressure, etc. I have gotten much better results out of the new Infinity 2024 by using the old air cap and nozzles versus the Ti parts using paint samples that work fine in a wide variety of other brushes. The old parts work better on the new body versus the older bodies, too. I worked mostly around 15-18psi. Dropping below 10psi, the Ti stuff works better...
I have not found as much variation with the 44/.45 setups, but still prefer the older parts over the Ti stuff.
On the .25 setup, it is possible to induce a stall in the spray pattern when pressures are between 25-35psi, that makes it very difficult to re-initiate the spray pattern without stopping, pausing, and trying again. If the air is on, moving the needle back and forth to try to regain spray does not seem to work. It can be hard to get the brush to spray again after back flushing the cup. If you set the reg at 20psi and start spraying, then increase the reg pressure - at around 25psi the pattern will start to diminish until you approach 35psi when it starts to regain size. These issues do not exist using the old head and nozzle on the new body.
I concur the brush will work down into much lower air pressures with the Ti headset, and do so admirably provided paint reduction is good.
What I found in my playing around is that the new Ti parts/new brush do everything they are supposed to do. But, when I reached for anything else, including the Evolution 2024, I found that they too would achieve similar results, but in the end much easier. Less reducing, no worries about air pressure, etc. I have gotten much better results out of the new Infinity 2024 by using the old air cap and nozzles versus the Ti parts using paint samples that work fine in a wide variety of other brushes. The old parts work better on the new body versus the older bodies, too. I worked mostly around 15-18psi. Dropping below 10psi, the Ti stuff works better...
I have not found as much variation with the 44/.45 setups, but still prefer the older parts over the Ti stuff.
On the .25 setup, it is possible to induce a stall in the spray pattern when pressures are between 25-35psi, that makes it very difficult to re-initiate the spray pattern without stopping, pausing, and trying again. If the air is on, moving the needle back and forth to try to regain spray does not seem to work. It can be hard to get the brush to spray again after back flushing the cup. If you set the reg at 20psi and start spraying, then increase the reg pressure - at around 25psi the pattern will start to diminish until you approach 35psi when it starts to regain size. These issues do not exist using the old head and nozzle on the new body.
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Paul Howard
Young Tutorling
By “old head and nozzle” you are talking about the old style head/nozzle with the .28 setup for the EVO 2024, correct? I haven’t tried the smaller head setups on the new body yet, but I will eventually. Thinning paint is always part of the process for me since all of the 5 or 6 model paint brands I use regularly are too thick to spray well from the bottle. It would be awesome to have ready to spray paints, but I’ve found that for me, thin mixes and low pressures are better at preserving detail on aircraft and armor models.
Great info on the stalling spray pattern on the .25 setup. My normal pressures are 18-20 psi for general spraying and as low as I can go for detail, so I probably wouldn’t have noticed that issue really soon. I’ve found that shapes that lay at angles to others like wing to fuselage joints and the like cause too much turbulence to spray smoothly at high pressures, so I avoid those settings as much as possible.
I will definitely be testing different part combos and may end up swapping the trigger on the new Infinity for one of the 2024 Evo types as they seem more comfortable right now. I will just swap the excenter to keep the response the same, but I have to play with it for a while before I spend the money on the parts.
I’m hoping to try out the 44/45 setups this weekend if things work out.
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
The .28 on the Evolution is the same as the previous versions .2 configuration, but yes - I have tried both the head and nozzle from the Evo 2024 as well as an older Infinity .2 set of parts. The difference in the new naming is due to more needle travel available in the new units.
Unless you are using the brush to prime, or need all the coverage the brush is capable of, you may not need to worry about the x-lever swap. I am not 100% sure it would work either, as the bottom of the infinity trigger is cupped out to allow clearance for the levers movement, while the Evo trigger is not.
I am a big fan of the larger setups. I have been able to pull off some super detail using them. The .44 on the Infinity 2024 will produce some crazy small dots and lines. Very versatile pieces.
Unless you are using the brush to prime, or need all the coverage the brush is capable of, you may not need to worry about the x-lever swap. I am not 100% sure it would work either, as the bottom of the infinity trigger is cupped out to allow clearance for the levers movement, while the Evo trigger is not.
I am a big fan of the larger setups. I have been able to pull off some super detail using them. The .44 on the Infinity 2024 will produce some crazy small dots and lines. Very versatile pieces.
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