Paint Inconsistent when trying to make fine lines

[otpowell]

I am using spectra-tex paint.. When I set my PSI @ 10, sometime it sputters and comes out in a rush... If I want to make fine lines, should I filter and reduce the paint? I didn't think I had to filter spectra-tex paint.. Everyone told me it runs great even through a .185mm needle.. I have an iwata hp-cs with a .35mm needle.. Anyone know if I can put smaller or bigger needles in it? If so, would I need a new nozzle too?

 

[Mr.Micron]

I am using spectra-tex paint.. When I set my PSI @ 10, sometime it sputters and comes out in a rush... If I want to make fine lines, should I filter and reduce the paint? I didn't think I had to filter spectra-tex paint.. Everyone told me it runs great even through a .185mm needle.. I have an iwata hp-cs with a .35mm needle.. Anyone know if I can put smaller or bigger needles in it? If so, would I need a new nozzle too?

Sound more like tip dry than anything else. Constantly look at you needle , Pick away the dried paint when needed,
I have had no issues like this using spectra-tex ,
On the Eclipse series you can either run the .35 that comes in the CS or Switch it out to the .50 hp-bcs that is it.
Mainly you need practice on learning the different sounds the airbrush makes when tip dry is occurring , or the paint is to thin or thick.
Plus not really sure what you are calling fine lines maybe post up some picks of what you are talking about.

 

[otpowell]

Thanks! I will post some pics.. I'm not talking very fine, way bigger than hairline.. I will try to listen, that is a great suggestion! I will post some pics when I get around to it! Thanks again!

 

[ad fez]

10 psi also, I hasn't used spectra myself but possibly slightly low pressure considering paint is straight out of the bottle?

 

[Mr.Micron]

10 psi also, I hasn't used spectra myself but possibly slightly low pressure considering paint is straight out of the bottle?

It is about as thin as comart is ,

 

[airbrushtutor]

Yeah i wouldn't be using it at 10 PSI.. I use createx through a 0.2mm set up at 30PSI. Wouldn't want to go less than that even in a 0.35mm. Well maybe 25PSI. but now we're just grasping at straws.:boxing:

 

[RebelAir]

Yer agree with the others, I never get that low on PSI, you can but generally with highly reduced paint..I've only just started using Spectra tex and I also spray at around 20-25 for gravity and a touch higher in my syphon but could also be some tip dry helping the issue..It pays to strain any paint, bits tend to dry out around the bottle lip and it falls back into the paint, these bits can get into the gun and cause issues so I always suggest straining..Just to be sure if anything..GL

 

[otpowell]

Got it.. I have some nylon stockings my girl gave me so that I can cut it and put it directly under my paint bottle cap.. Ill try higher pressures and try to listen and watch for tip dry.. Thanks for all the good suggestions guys!

 

[otpowell]

Anyone know the shelf life on spectra-tex bottles? I bought a few spectra tex bottles from michaels, and also bought a 6 pack from amazon. Yesterday, I noticed the bottle I bought from michaels separates faster than the new bottles from amazon.. Is this because the paint is older? Amazon probably has a much higher rate of selling so better chances of getting fresher paint... Does it help to shake your bottles of paint every now and then or doesn't it matter as long as it is well mixed before you paint?

 

[otpowell]

I've read my instructions, is says to pull back on the needle chucking nut while simultaneously working the trigger for fine lines.. That seems kind of strange, does that work? I just received my crown cap for making finer lines, have yet to install it or try even finer lines.. I guess instead of writing all of this I should be practicing and trying it..

 

[RebelAir]

I've kept and used paint for years m8, using distilled water is a good idea though as using tap water allows some bacteria growth and it can stink a bit a few yrs down the track LOL, still works though.The pigment in paint will settle over time (Thank gravity) this starts to happen as soon as you shake a bottle up..So shake your bottle on every use, this is very important when you start making your own colors, if you don't you may notice that the color changes slightly as your using up your color, it even will happen in one cup of paint in your gun if you have that color in for awhile..Try putting a marble or ball bearing in the bottle also, this helps to break up any pigment clumps and disperses it well..No doubt the paint you bought that was seperated could be a bit older, but a good shake and it should spray as good as any new paint..GL

 

[KenBadger]

otpowell, bump up your pressure in small incriments. try 12, 15, 18 psi. depedning on humidity and other factors any paint will dry differently. that's why there are ******ers so you can manipulate paint dry times to your environment and the drying conditions it wil cause. also remember you are drying paint while you are applying it, so higher pressure means faster drying means more tip dry. that's kind of the airbrushing with acrylics cunundrum. that being said - you can dod what many t-shirt painters do - which is to work at such high pressures you blow right through the clogs. Howver that's not so easy if your working on less forgiving substrates than T-shirt fabrics. Long and short of it is - you'll need to do some trial and error with pressure settings and paint manipulation to find the scenario that is best for your specific requirements. Keep playing and keep asking questions as many here have been through the process and will be of help.

Spectratex has been shelf life tested to 7 years - different pigments will settle out differently in the base. we recommend using a paint mixer when preparing your paints, but worse-case scenario, some very vigorous agitation will get most pigment re-distributed to a sprayable viscosity

I am curious what instructions you are referring to regarding pulling back on the needle chucking while simultaneously working the trigger. I'm sure that's not on the spectratex bottle or any Badger airbrush instruction book, as pulling back on the neddle chucking kind of renders the trigger useless.

 

[KenBadger]

As advised above by several others - always depress your airbrush trigger when setting your working pressure.

below is some good basic pressure setting and paint thinning guidance to start with - you'll have to trail and error it to your specific requirements, but these are pretty good starting guidelines for someone just starting out.
[FONT="ArialNarrow]BOTTOM FEED [/FONT]refers to airbrusheson which material enters through a siphon tube or color cup attached to thebottom of the airbrush.
Thistype of airbrush should have at least 20-25 PSI while spraying to operateproperly.
[FONT="ArialNarrow]GRAVITY FEED [/FONT]refers to airbrusheson which material enters at the top of the airbrush through a top-mounted colorreservoir. Gravity
drawsthe material into the airbrush. This type of airbrush can be operated at spraypressures as low as 10-15 PSI.
[FONT="ArialNarrow]SIDE FEED [/FONT]refers to airbrusheson which material enters at the side of the airbrush through a side attachedcolor reservoir. This type of
airbrush operates best at approximately 12-18PSI.

[FONT="ArialNarrow]Paints - [/FONT]The rule of thumb forpreparing paints (or other materials) for airbrushing is to reduce them to theapproximate visual viscosity of
2%milk. As starting paint viscosities often vary from color to color, even withina specific paint brand, it is best to avoid fixed thinning ratios.
Itis also best to vigorously mix/stir paint rather than shaking it before usebecause mixing/stirring paint better blends pigment and base
creatinga more consistent paint from the top to the bottom of the bottle, and causespigment to re-settle slower. Various paint types and
materials,including acrylics, lacquers, enamels, urethanes, inks, water colors, dyes,stains, cosmetics, and food colors can be applied with
an airbrush if properly reduced for spraying.

 

[otpowell]

Ken Badger, thank you, as for the part about the needle chucking nut, it says it in my iwata hp-cs manual.. Here it is I have pasted it.. Trying to understand the physics of it before trying it.. Maybe trying it is the only way to understand though..

Fine-Line Spray
1. Depress the main lever (#12) to start airflow.
2. Position the airbrush close to the surface, between 1/16 and
1⁄2 inch is common.
3. Pull the main lever back slightly to start the flow of paint.
4. Grip the exposed needle chuckling nut (#18) with your fingers.
5. Pull back on it while simultaneously depressing the main lever (#12).

 

[otpowell]

KenBadger, I will probably buy the badger paint mixer. I have spent a lot of money on myself for Christmas.. All these 10 and 20 dollar purchases add up! Paint, 20 gallon air compressor (wanted to run and impact wrench too), frisket film, liquid masking, stencil blanks, lube, restorer, reducer, cleaner, easel, xacto knives, foam board to paint on, cleaning brushes, Mac valve, air hose, moisture filter, quick connect fittings, wicked glow paint, crown cap.. And still, there is more to buy! Lol.. I hope I am almost done buying supplies I need accept paint and clear.

 

[Toot]

Ken Badger, thank you, as for the part about the needle chucking nut, it says it in my iwata hp-cs manual.. Here it is I have pasted it.. Trying to understand the physics of it before trying it.. Maybe trying it is the only way to understand though..

Fine-Line Spray
1. Depress the main lever (#12) to start airflow.
2. Position the airbrush close to the surface, between 1/16 and
1⁄2 inch is common.
3. Pull the main lever back slightly to start the flow of paint.
4. Grip the exposed needle chuckling nut (#18) with your fingers.
5. Pull back on it while simultaneously depressing the main lever (#12).

I think the HP-CS instructions are misprinted. If you read the section on 'Stippling' below the 'Fine-line' section they start talking about fine-line spraying. Then over the page under 'Cutaway Handle' there are 3 random steps and then they talk about stippling. I think steps 1 - 3 under Fine-Line spraying relate to Fine-line spraying. Steps 4 and 5 actually belong to the steps 1 - 3 on the following page which are for Stippling though are under the 'Cutaway handle' section.

Hope that make sense, .

It is also recommended that the HP-CS sprays at around 35psi. Someone said earlier that Spectra-Tex is like Commart. I used Commart at 25 - 30 psi and it sprayed really well. I didn't have tip-dry issues until I went to Wicked Colors at 35psi. I have learned to spray with the cap off so I can clean it with my thumb nail easily and quickly before I spray a line. Obviously with no cap on you have to be real careful not to damage the needle.

Must say I am now interested in this stippling effect. Think I will give it a go tomorrow. I have been playing with ice-block sticks to try and build texture, maybe this will work better?

 

[simonarvestrand]

I just love comart, no tipdryes for hours yesterday.

Is it possible to paint with my eclipse with no cap ? i get spyders on the paper all the time when i try.

 

[wickedartstudio]

Must say I am now interested in this stippling effect. Think I will give it a go tomorrow. I have been playing with ice-block sticks to try and build texture, maybe this will work better?

An alternative to stipling without having to use the ice-block sticks (pencil, toothbrush, clothespin or whatever tool you choose) is to simply remove the nozzle cap from your airbrush. The brush will spray a stipple pattern on its own with the cap removed. Some find it easier to control than the stick method pertaining to the stipple size. Closer to the canvas creates a finer pattern, further away creates larger drops...

 

[Toot]

I think the HP-CS instructions are misprinted. If you read the section on 'Stippling' below the 'Fine-line' section they start talking about fine-line spraying. Then over the page under 'Cutaway Handle' there are 3 random steps and then they talk about stippling. I think steps 1 - 3 under Fine-Line spraying relate to Fine-line spraying. Steps 4 and 5 actually belong to the steps 1 - 3 on the following page which are for Stippling though are under the 'Cutaway handle' section.

Hope that make sense, .

It is also recommended that the HP-CS sprays at around 35psi. Someone said earlier that Spectra-Tex is like Commart. I used Commart at 25 - 30 psi and it sprayed really well. I didn't have tip-dry issues until I went to Wicked Colors at 35psi. I have learned to spray with the cap off so I can clean it with my thumb nail easily and quickly before I spray a line. Obviously with no cap on you have to be real careful not to damage the needle.

Must say I am now interested in this stippling effect. Think I will give it a go tomorrow. I have been playing with ice-block sticks to try and build texture, maybe this will work better?

Actually, this is wrong: Steps 4 and 5 on page 7 belong on page 8 under 'Cutaway Handle' on how to free up paint clogs as steps 1 & 2 (the 3 steps under Cutaway handle are for stippling on page 7). Either way, that section of that booklet is a mess.

 

[KenBadger]

Ken Badger, thank you, as for the part about the needle chucking nut, it says it in my iwata hp-cs manual.. Here it is I have pasted it.. Trying to understand the physics of it before trying it.. Maybe trying it is the only way to understand though..

Fine-Line Spray
1. Depress the main lever (#12) to start airflow.
2. Position the airbrush close to the surface, between 1/16 and
1⁄2 inch is common.
3. Pull the main lever back slightly to start the flow of paint.
4. Grip the exposed needle chuckling nut (#18) with your fingers.
5. Pull back on it while simultaneously depressing the main lever (#12).

as others have indicated there is likely something incorrect in those directions. the needle chuck/cutaway are not intended to be part of the means for adjusting spray pattern/color flow.

they may serve some slight purpose in blowing out clogs, but on most airbrushes the cutaway handle does not really allow any beneficial additional needle movement over just pulling all the way back on the trigger - as by that point the nozzle is full open anyhow.